After almost a decade of cutting-edge collaborations, Belgian designer Raf Simons and British staple Fred Perry have again joined forces for a new capsule collection. Transcending previous collaborations that featured alternative color schemes and geometric designs, the range brings Fred Perry back to its eponymous tennis legend’s roots, his original unicolor polo shirt here re-imagined with bold heritage colors of red, white, and black, and finished with contrast collars and tipped cuffs. The laurel wreath logo, a symbol of victory and achievement, is featured on the left breast of all designs, though renewed with “Raf Simons” written beneath. Also included are sweatshirts and t-shirts, several of which boast a washed denim patch, giving the garments a lived-in feel. The darted, streamlined silhouettes ensure a slimming effect, and the buttoned collar across the range strikes a balance between smart and casual styles. With reformed yet classic designs, Raf Simons and Fred Perry exhibit the spirit of British youth culture.
Image: Fred Perry x Raf Simons.
Image: Fred Perry x Raf Simons.
Image: Fred Perry x Raf Simons.
Image: Fred Perry x Raf Simons.
The Raf Simons x Fred Perry collection is available online now.
Set aside your outdated hype playlists or over-spun DJ tracks and turn to a more updated fare with Trending Tunes, the definitive Autumn/Winter 2017 runway compilation from around the globe. Just set up those subs, press play, and walk that walk.
The mix:
Soundtrack from Sacai‘s Autumn/Winter 2017 runway show for Paris Fashion Week by Senjan Jansen.
Track list in the following order:
01. “Stars” – Mr. Fingers
02. “Pole” – Karlheinz Stockhausen
03. “Spiral I, for Electonium and Short Wave Radio” – Karlheinz Stockhausen
04. “Stoned Immaculate” – The Police
05. “Riders on the Storm” – The Police
06. “Origin and Theory of the Tape Cut Ups” – William Burroughs
07. “Think Twice” – Henrik Schwartz
08. “Voices in My Head” A Capella – The Police
Audio: Senjan Jansen, courtesy of Sacai.
Neither ESSENTIAL HOMME nor Sacai claim ownership of any of these songs. If you have ownership of music in this playlist and wish to not be included, please contact us at INFO [at] essentialhommemag.com and we will remove immediately.
As true believers of the work hard, play hard mantra, we present you with It’s Been a Long Week, a weekly column aimed at awarding some liquid appreciation to you for just being yourself, dammit. Make a glass or two on us, you deserve it.
WHAT
Flinders Lane’s Spiced Carrot Margarita
Journey to a land down under at Flinders Lane, New York’s hottest multi-cultural eatery, with its fiery Spiced Carrot Margarita. A cocktail that cherry-picks the very best of Australian cuisine, with a just-right splash of South American nuance, the result is a buzzing treat that is sure to give you a warm “G’day” feeling.
HOW
Ingredients:
1.5 oz. Chile-infused Blanco Tequila
0.5 oz. Ancho Reyes Chile Liqueur
0.5 oz. Mezcal
1 oz. Fresh carrot juice
0.5 oz. Cardamom-infused simple syrup
0.5 oz. Lime juice
Image: ESSENTIAL HOMME, Picaro, Menjurje of Ancho Reyes, Del Maguey, Biotta, and Le Sirop de Monin.
THEN
Combine ingredients, shake, and strain. Serve in a rocks glass with carrot salt rim.
The often illogical way our minds evaluate and classify life’s events creates a funny albeit disorientating reflection on change over time. Moments, dreary to the point of annoyance, might jellify in one, all-too-present mental tissue, while other times, unquantifiably more or less significant, are haphazardly lost for minutes or even hours at a time. What’s her name, and so-and-so, and that place we went to that time. As if entering a pitch black room and only able to touch every ten steps forward, it’s an accordion effect of volumizing scales. For Luke Evans—who, since his transition from stage to film seven years ago, has seen such rampant growth—it’s a phenomenon he is all too familiar with. “What did I do last week? I don’t even remember!” the 37-year-old sharp-faced actor says from his home in London. “I don’t know what it is, I can remember a 130-page script, but I can’t remember what I did yesterday. Maybe I have no brain space left.”
Image: Zeb Daemen.
Evans was raised in Aberbargoed, a tiny village in the valleys of south Wales—where, as it turns out, he was the days prior (“you have to make the effort to see your family and be a good grandson,” he recalls)—as an only child to a tight-knit family of Jehovah’s Witnesses, his father worked as a builder and his mother as a cleaner and seamstress. “Surrounded by the hills and mountains, I had a nice upbringing. I was very close to my family,” he says. “We had a good set of values and didn’t take anything for granted. My parents are still together and most of my friends’ are not—that’s not just the religion, but it has something to do with it. It has its flaws, I’m not going to say it doesn’t, but it gave me a good grounding and I kept a lot of that.”
Image: Zeb Daemen.
In these adolescent years, the art of singing had been an ongoing passion for the young boy but it was never encouraged. “It was always a sideline activity,” he remembers, “something I did in my spare time when everything else was finished.” It wasn’t until Evans began applying to local competitions as a teenager that he started to imagine a future in the craft. Soon, vocal lessons led to acting classes, and, at the age of 16, he won a scholarship to the London Studio Centre that changed everything. “I went from working as a mailboy in a bank to going to college full time learning how to act, sing, and do all the rest,” he says. “I felt very much out of my comfort zone. I was coming from a very working class, normal background where I hadn’t had lessons all my life like everyone else. I was very wet behind the ears in that kind of way. The whole thing was quite…terrifying. I was like, ‘Holy shit, I’ve got to either get on board or get out.’ I threw myself into it and it sort of worked, eh? It was quite an amazing experience in the end.”
Image: Zeb Daemen.
In the next near-decade, Evans rose through the city’s historic West End, starring in theatrical productions as wide-reaching as “Miss Saigon,” “Rent,” and “Avenue Q,” to smaller, artistic pieces such as “Small Change” by Peter Gill (perhaps his most applauded role on the stage). “Theater is such an exposing medium to work in. There’s no stopping to retake the scene. You can’t do that, so you just have to keep going,” he says. “It’s a way to learn your craft and understand an audience and comedic timing. That’s why I think it’s such a great thing for any actor to do—whether it’s plays or musicals, whatever—live theater teaches a lot. I have used a lot of the experiences I learned in theater for film.” In 2009, at the age of 30, the actor auditioned for his first feature movie. The following year alone, his quote-unquote Holly- wood breakthrough, “Clash of the Titans” would come out, along with “Tamara Drewe,” “Robin Hood,” and “Sex & Drugs & Rock & Roll,” leading the way for a new era of Evans, in which he would eventually front the likes of “The Three Musketeers,” “The Hobbit” trilogy, and “Dracula Untold” afterward. The rise from exploratory to major motion picture was quick but not without his own efforts. “I was lucky enough to work on [“Clash of the Titans”] with Ralph Fiennes and Liam Neeson. I got to watch them act. I saw sometimes how quiet and how small and how intimate their performances were, and I was like, ‘Wow. That’s fine?’ I didn’t have any training for film and TV, and I wasn’t used to that,” he says. “I had to just pick it up as I went along. I’ve always been one of those people that could watch somebody take the wheel of a car and then drive it myself, or watch somebody go bake bread and then bake it on my own.”
Image: Zeb Daemen.
This past fall the actor appeared in “The Girl on the Train,” a psychological thriller based on the novel of the same name by Paula Hawkins about three couples woven into a toxic plot of murder, doubt, and manipulation. “It’s a very real story about a lot of broken people—human life and human nature,” says Evans, who played Scott, the husband of the story’s missing character, opposite Justin Theroux and Emily Blunt. “It doesn’t matter if you’re the psychopath or the fairy godmother, you have to bring something of yourself to that character and I think that’s what I did with him. I saw Scott as a human in many ways; he was a man being suspected of something he absolutely wasn’t. We’ve all been in places in our lives when we felt we weren’t being heard or we had questions we couldn’t answer and we dealt with pain and heartbreak and loss and anger.” The project was an edgy precursor to the recently released “Beauty and the Beast,” a live-action remake of the acclaimed childhood tale directed by Bill Condon with Emma Watson as Belle, Dan Stevens as the Beast, and Evans as Gaston, the story’s antagonist. The occasion marked the actor’s first musical on the silver screen: a new milestone yet also an exciting return to his original craft. “It was a really lovely feeling to merge two parts of my career, which have taken up most of my adult life, and put them together and do it in such a wonderful vehicle,” he says. “It was just one of those moments, I don’t think I’ll ever forget it. I hope it’s not the last time I’ll get to sing in a film, but it certainly was a nice way to start singing and make people realize that I can.”
Image: Zeb Daemen.
In spite of the speed of it all or the days that just slip into our own internal nebulosi, Evans is not without his own balance. There may be specifics in question or topics to return to at a later point, but the transience comes with the territory. From the larger-than-life Disney villain to a Tolkien hero, the roles range as much as they transport. Through everything, he remains constant in the ways he can. Evans is openly gay and encourages life’s happinesses in all its forms. His close group of friends have stayed the same (“the only difference,” he laughs, “is that sometimes they ask for selfies”). Though no longer tied to his childhood religion, a decision made early on, he remains close to his family. Mostly, for him at least, the magic just never seems to run out. Even now, at this pivotal arch in his career, Evans is able to indulge and then come up for air before submerging again, sinking further away than before. “I’m very good at decompressing very quickly,” he says of the emotional process. “My cousin just recently reminded me about when we were in Shanghai a few years ago doing press. We were in the car, I was in my suit, and we were about to arrive to a thousand people. He said, ‘You just closed your eyes and you went to sleep for about ten minutes. You opened your eyes, the door opened, the cameras started to flash, and you were on again.’”
In anticipation of its Fifth Collection release, Fear of God debuts a behind-the-scenes film from the campaign shoot, a visual story told to Chance the Rapper’s “Finish Line/Drown.” Directed by Lane Stewart, the candid film depicts the brand as a family, revealing the collaborators’ efforts to evoke the nostalgic essence of the collection. Inspired by the childhood of Creative Director Jerry Lorenzo Manuel, profiled in ESSENTIAL HOMME February/March 2016, the shoot borrows furniture from Manuel’s grandmother’s home and features family photographs beside test shots of the models. The garments themselves embody this retrospective theme, including styles from ’80s and ’90s streetwear—oversized sweats, khakis, flannel, basketball shorts, and light selvedge denim paired with statement sneakers. The pieces remind Manuel of a time when “cool” and “fashion” grew organically, and wasn’t dictated by media: “The only information you had access to was your closet,” he says. “You had to make it work somehow.” At the end of the film, we see the past and future of Manuel and Fear of God: an intimate shot of the man and his son walking through Sacramento beneath a violet sky.
Up-and-coming Swedish brand Axel Arigato takes the plunge into its inaugural clothing line, releasing today. The brand, which previously designed only shoes and accessories—and for some time released a new shoe every week—is expanding its offerings with high-quality printed tees, sweats, and hoodies. The styles boast a range of colors and designs, the latter including a swallow print, the Arigato logo, and Chinese and Japanese characters and images. The brand utilizes this new collection to expand further beyond its footwear aesthetic, one inspired by Japan’s architectural minimalism and growing youth culture.
A collaboration between the buttoned-up Lacoste and the street-savvy Supreme seems an unlikely pairing, yet with two brands whose empires are built on the iconography of their logos, the forthcoming joint collection could be almost kismet. Rebranding the French label’s heavy cable-knits and sharp-cut crewnecks for a new generation, the pieces incorporate the base of Lacoste’s longstanding success with Supreme’s hold over millennial cool. The Harrington jacket, tennis sweater, pique crewneck, shorts, track pants, and more all receive the skate-culture treatment, repurposed for a unique authenticity that combines sportswear both past and present. Soon to be a testament to the durability of youth-centric labels, Lacoste—who initially rose to fame as a young person’s status symbol—and Supreme—the 1994-founded curator of cool—bridge a cross-generational gap for a line that harmonizes hardened edges and elite posterity. Having grown accustomed to collaborative projects, the French clothier with its recent Opening Ceremony sport line and the Manhattan staple with too many to count, their joint Hamptons-meets-bridge-and-tunnel collection preps audiences for an unexplored fashion gray area—relaxed, refined, and inherently distinct.
Image: Supreme x Lacoste.
Image: Supreme x Lacoste.
Image: Supreme x Lacoste.
The Supreme x Lacoste Collection will be available online starting March 16, 2017.
A Stepford peek at hyper-real suburbia, Ted Baker dares audiences to just try Keeping Up with the Bakers this Spring/Summer 2017. Taking all of the passive aggressive smiles of cul-de-sac life and distilling them into a plastic peek at the family everyone loves to hate, the campaign underpins the brand’s latest off-beat wardrobe offering—a line of sunny pieces that draw jealous stares from behind the living room curtain. From pattern-centric tops to close-cropped pants, the scenes set the tone for a country club style of devious, manufactured pep.
Though camouflage may be sneaking back onto the runway scene in quiet droves, Bottega Veneta breaks the mold with its New Patchwork collection. A refined offering that hints at the hunter-favorite print, the release pieces together four premium textiles—espresso brown lamb, grey suede, Barolo red sheepskin, and black calf leather—to fuse vintage craftsmanship with a contemporary eye.
Image: Bottega Veneta.
Image: Bottega Veneta.
Updating a variety of tried-and-true staples from the Italian brand’s archives, the focus becomes settled on the optical, the Frankenstein-ian visual detailing extending from the Malton boot, along with sport and slipper iterations, through to a simple merino sweater and sharp biker jacket, settling finally on an accessory range that plays with dramatic proportions. Fans of the heritage classics will be pleased to see the famous Intrecciato detailing is not left wanting, its woven complexity subtly working its way through the blouson jacket’s print in smoldering burgundies and hearty browns, first witnessed in the brand’s Spring/Summer 2017 campaign imagery. Brunito metalwork, most commonly seen in its extensive bag collections, supports the outerwear’s frame to provide a muted touch that completes the line’s luxe finish. With this head-to-toe attention to detail the brand’s desire to emphasize construction becomes apparent, the New Patchwork collection an affluent reiteration of treasured Italian leather techniques.
The Bottega Veneta New Patchwork collection is available online now.
Set aside your outdated hype playlists or over-spun DJ tracks and turn to a more updated fare with Trending Tunes, the definitive Autumn/Winter 2017 runway compilation from around the globe. Just set up those subs, press play, and walk that walk.
The mix:
Soundtrack from Officine Generale‘s Autumn/Winter 2017 runway show for Paris Fashion Week by MODE-F.
Audio: MODE-F, courtesy of Officine Generale.
Neither ESSENTIAL HOMME nor Officine Generale claim ownership of any of these songs. If you have ownership of music in this playlist and wish to not be included, please contact us at INFO [at] essentialhommemag.com and we will remove immediately.
This week’s complete social snapshot, distilled for your pleasure.
From the hottest celebrity parties to the regretful morning-after shots, ESSENTIAL HOMME‘s Weekly Instagram Roundup brings all of the hottest designer, model, and trendsetting pics from the week directly to you. After all, no one has time to scroll through anything but the best.
Dolce&Gabbana
Dolce&Gabbana continued its exploration of youth with the Italian house’s latest eyewear campaign. Featuring Presley Gerber, the rising model and son of fashion icon Cindy Crawford, among other young talents, including internet sensation Cameron Dallas, the prints speak to the Millennial-centric Spring/Summer 2017 campaign released earlier this year. Here featuring the Jazz eyewear collection, the #DGCapri still is the latest in a string of all-in-the-family imagery that reinvented the label as an all-encompassing, familiar staple.
adidas Y-3
Yohji Yamamoto‘s adidas off-shoot Y-3 jumped to new heights in this first look at the upcoming Spring/Summer 2017 sport collection. Featuring the all-black aesthetic familiar to the brand, this athleisure take reinvents the shoe sole for a buoyant, lightweight design, highlighted by stylized knee-length socks. Though don’t expect the logo-centric look to stick around, come Autumn/Winter 2017 the marketed approach will take a backseat to the brand’s more reserved take.
Saturdays NYC
Though the team at Saturdays NYC may be busy—the brand having just released its first grooming line and is currently in the process of expanding its physical sale presence across the globe—the surf-ready label still has time for a little fun. Stopping by the Flower Shop, New York’s recently opened pub and eatery, the team met up with the restauranteurs for a quick bite and a little chat on what makes the space the city’s latest must-see destination. The owners, friends of the brand, are pictured here wearing the Clay Ditch hooded sweatshirt and Sanders long-sleeve terry polo, as seen in the label’s latest lookbook.
Bruce Weber
Iconic fashion photographer Bruce Weber has kept himself busy—shooting ads for David Yurman, Louis Vuitton, and, of course, Versace. His next project, a Ralph Lauren campaign highlighting its Polo Red Extreme fragrance, saw Weber return to film with a bold extended director’s cut of his cinematic creation. Featuring actor Luke Bracey and models Kenneth Guidroz and Alyssa Miller, the shared image is a behind-the-scenes shot of the dirt road, red pickup truck energy of Weber’s modern/western visual landscape.
J.W.Anderson Founder and Creative Director Jonathan Anderson assumes a global spotlight as Pitti Immagine Uomo 92‘s special guest designer. Following in the footsteps of Tim Coppens last season, with Raf Simons filling the role prior, the young designer will take the runway June 14, 2017 in Florence, showcasing his brand’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection at the long-running menswear trade show. Those in attendance should expect an envelope-pushing presentation from the creative, whose past inspirational muse has bounced across the cultural phenomena, landing everywhere from sex apps to Peter and the Wolf.