Tag Archives: Vetements

balenciaga led glasses

Balenciaga’s LED Glasses Make a Case for Wearable Tech

There was a lot going on at the Balenciaga show in Paris over the weekend. For its Spring 2020 collection, the designer (still overseen by Demna Gvasalia who recently left Vetements) styled its cast of models and non-models with angled facial prosthetics, barricade-like shoulder pads were out in full force, and a case for the Spanish label’s own Top Model spin-off — Balenciaga’s Top Model — was made loud and clear via a black graphic tee.

 

But one of the biggest hits from the night was also one of the most simple: a pair of sunglasses enriched with a glowing LED logo on the side. The eyewear was inspired by light-up sneakers (the ’90s remains a constant source of influence for the designer) and can be charged with a USB cable. The LED display is triggered by a sensor that’s activated once the arms are unfolded — even better, you can tap the side to make the logo change color for maximum rave effect.

 

A lot of brands have been trying to make wearable tech happen for a while. (Remember how hard Google tried to push Google Glass down our throats a few years back? I can’t even remember the last time I saw a pair of those things IRL. Thank god.) But with the reception these glasses have gotten on social media since their debut, it’s evident that wearable tech might be a thing best kept simple. Who’d have thought that Demna, a man who’s never met an oversized silhouette it didn’t like, would be so good at ‘Less is more?’

 

 

 

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Five of Demna Gvasalia’s Greatest Vetements Moments

Earlier this week, brand founder Demna Gvasalia announced his departure from French anti-designer Vetements. One of the most singular visions in the industry, we look back at some of the brand’s greatest moments under his direction.

 

DHL Batteries – Spring 2016 Show

A masterclass in branding or just runway trolling, the label’s DHL t-shirt was an instant hit that eventually became an it-piece of 2016. Whether or not it was some grand anti-fashion statement or just a shoutout to everyone’s favorite German-American delivery service, it sold out almost immediately. Apparently everyone wanted to be in on the joke.

 

Harrods Trash Display

In February 2018, Vetements took over four of Harrods’ windows — prime retail real estate — to make a statement about mass clothing production and sustainability. Store employees and customers were invited to donate clothes to become part of the display, with all the donations eventually going to the NSPPC.

 

My Heart Will Go On

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Who knew that when the label presented its Titantic-inspired merch it would end up with the celebrity endorsement of a lifetime? Shortly after its release, Celine Dion was spotted wearing the oversized hoodie placing both her and the designer in the spotlight.

 

Normcore on Crack – Fall/Winter 2015

The designer’s first runway show happened during a time when normcore, or looking as plain as possible, was something people strived towards. So, of course, it took that idea and twisted it into its own design, aggressively exaggerating suit silhouettes, shoulder pads, and sleeve lengths, and (for better or worse) providing the template for the dad sneaker revival.

 

Juicy Couture – Spring 2017

It was only a matter of time before Juicy Couture was resurrected back into social consciousness. Vetements just happened to be the ones who did it first.

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Hyper-Realistic Mannequins Haunt New Balenciaga Flagship

After departing from Vetements earlier this week, creative director Demna Gvasalia has shifted his focus to Balenciaga with a sleek new space on Madison Avenue. The new 4,500-square-foot space is heavy on Y2K aesthetics — think smooth metallic surfaces, curvilinear details, screens projecting atmospheric blue skies and other visuals that look like screensaver options for new computers, and general-spaceship vibes — that gives off the illusion of being trapped in a type of high-fashion simulation. Additionally, the creepiest and most enticing aspect of the store is the 3D printed mannequins based on the models that have walked in the designer’s shows.

 

See for yourself — the new store is open now at 620 Madison Ave, NY 10022.

 

 


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Models Wander Aimlessly in Balenciaga’s Latest Campaign

Since landing at Balenciaga in late 2015, designer/disruptor Demna Gvasalia has consistently challenged the fashion industry — he’s opted out of the traditional show cycle and made headlines with the impractical but utterly meme-able pieces (like those platform Crocs from the Spring ’18 collection) that have helped the luxury label double its profits since he took over — while keeping it delightfully strange. The newest campaign, shot by artist Jean-Pierre Attal in his first fashion campaign ever, is no different. In the images, captured in breathtaking deserts in Morocco and Lanzarote, models are wandering aimlessly while decked out in the latest collection, in an attempt to blur the lines between work and play. The contrast is striking, with the chic and print-heavy collection obviously standing out against the natural setting, but we’ve come to expect nothing less from the designer. Just check out its Instagram.

 

 

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The Best Camp Menswear from Mr. Porter

It’s the first Monday of May, which can only mean one thing: the Met Gala. With this year’s theme being something as fun and subjective as ‘Camp,’ it should make for a delightfully tongue-in-cheek red carpet. (Fingers crossed.) For those of us who won’t be attending the benefit tonight, we’ve rounded up some of the best menswear items from Mr. Porter to add a little camp to your everyday look before you go see Camp: Notes on Fashion when it opens on Thursday. Read on.

 

Gucci Camp-Collar Printed Silk Shirt

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Gucci is the official sponsor of the exhibition, with creative director Alessandro Michele serving as one of the hosts, and this heavy-metal-inspired graphic shirt is the perfect way to show gratitude.

$1,280, available on MrPorter.com

 

 

Paul Smith Pencil Silver-Tone And Enamel Cufflinks

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These cartoon-like pencil cufflinks are the perfect way to add some risible flair to an otherwise mundane business look.

$125, available on MrPorter.com

 

 

Balenciaga Printed Cotton-Twill Shirt

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Dressing camp is a bit of a gamble, so you might as well take it literally with this all-over card print shirt from Balenciaga.

$780, available on MrPorter.com

 

 

99%IS- Gobchang Stretch-Shell Drawstring Trousers

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An exaggerated take on drawstring pants, these trousers are a pure rave and punk explosion — just make sure they don’t get caught on anything.

$870, available on MrPorter.com

 

 

Prada Logo-Appliquéd Printed Neoprene Track Jacket

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A trippy take on an Italian Renaissance painting printed on a neoprene jacket? Couldn’t be more camp if Elton John sewed it himself.

$1560, available on MrPorter.com

 

 

Vetements Flame-Appliquéd Leather Boots

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Vetements easily codes as camp due to its general disinterest in participating in the fashion cycle circus. These flaming boots are no exception.

$2390, available on MrPorter.com

 

 

Neighborhood Wide-Leg Printed Cotton-Corduroy Trousers

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This ambiguous interpretation of camouflage pants is a woodsy and whimsical take on outdoor dressing.

$320, available on MrPorter.com

 

 

Off-White Printed Shell Messenger Bag

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There’s definitely some irony in a camera bag printed with an Impressionist painting.

$560, available on MrPorter.com

 

 

AMBUSH Oversized Appliquéd Cotton-Poplin Shirt

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Part of the Japan Edit (which launched today) this exclusive piece is the epitome of art-teacher-cool.

$810, available on MrPorter.com

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Body Language: Revisiting Hal Fischer’s ‘Gay Semiotics’

When Hal Fischer released Gay Semiotics in 1977, he immediately knew he had created something special. The simple image series of young gay men in San Francisco succinctly captured and decoded queer body language and sartorial cues, such as the “hanky code,” and simplified them for mass consumption. It remains a pivotal queer cultural text whose influence continues to be seen in fashion and beyond over 40 years later.

 

“A novelist friend recently mentioned to me that the ‘70s were, in fact, the ‘Age of Gay,” Fischer tells me over email. “I’ve pondered what he meant by this, and I think what he was saying is that in subsequent decades, gay aesthetics, lifestyle, etc. were appropriated by mainstream culture.”

 

Queer aesthetics—like most trends—have trickled in and out of public consciousness for decades. For their Spring/Summer 2019 shows, Vetements featured a number of gimp masks in its collection, while Berluti incorporated leather military caps and Gucci flaunted a number of studded leather jockstraps. These subversive style cues have emerged from the underground and become regular fashion staples, routinely reinterpreted and reappropriated for a broader audience.

 

Gay Semiotics continues to earn retrospective critical plaudits, but Fischer acknowledges the project’s limitations as it centers on a specific type of experience. “I think my work is about gayness from a white male perspective, and not about queerness,” he says. “What has occurred—and this is very positive—is that we’ve gone from gay to LGBTQ. As a label, ‘queerness’ encompasses so much more than the gay white male experience.”

 

While representation and intersectionality continue to dominate the larger cultural conversation, Fischer’s work remains a touchstone that will undoubtedly influence the next generation to challenge and educate. “I believe the transgressive frontier is predominately with transgender and queer artists, as well as with work that challenges traditional stereotypes, [such as] behavior, body type, and action.”

 

Feature image: Hal Fischer
Earring, from the series Gay Semiotics, 1977
Courtesy of the artist and Project Native Informant, London

Below: Hal Fischer
Handkerchiefs, from the series Gay Semiotics, 1977
Courtesy of the artist and Project Native Informant, London

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Vetements Releases FW 18 Graphic Collection

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Shortly following the release of the highlighter green and pink Vetements x Reebok Instapump Collaboration, Vetements has released a new series of graphic apparel for Fall/Winter 18.

The collection is comprised of hoodies and t-shirts that consist of striking imagery. The items found within the collection includes t-shirts that play on the astrological signs, a t-shirt with a child’s drawing that has “Elephant in the Room” scribbled on, a t-shirt with riffs of the iconic “I Heart NY” phrase, and a hoodie that has “I have a drinking problem” largely printed on the front. Whether or not it makes sense is up for discussion, but it’s what we’ve come to expect from the disruptive designer.

The new collection ranges from $370 to $720 and is available now at Dover Street Market London.

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Marcelo Burlon County of Fall 2018 Milan First Looks

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Images: Paolo Simi for ESSENTIAL HOMME.

Metal-inspired imagery continue to flow into the fashion domain, seen everywhere from Vetements to the Justin Bieber tour merch. Marcelo Burlon County of Milan relies on it for its FW18 which is ripe with nostalgia and Street Fighter flair. Full of novelty references — patches and graphics galore, hello logomania! — the collection was a playful presentation that provided a different perspective to the formalwear that dominated the rest of the season. Bright colors and plenty of face tattoos gave the collection a fantastically vivid tone, like a comic-book come to life.

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2017 Holiday Gift Guide for Everyone Else

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Tis the season! Remind your loved ones that they’re loved with the ESSENTIAL HOMME 2017 Holiday Gift Guide for everyone else. Here’s a gift for every family member, friend, lover, stranger, and more, sure to make you the most popular guest at the holiday party. After you’ve picked out some treats for all those that are dear to you, reward yourself with something pretty. We all deserve it.

1. Kids SST Track suit, ADIDAS

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Image: Adidas.

This timeless and seminal Adidas track suit will render each child the coolest on the playground.

Kids SST track suit, $45, ADIDAS ORIGINALS. Available in Adidas stores and adidas.com

2. Sonos One, SONOS

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Image: Sonos.

Complete every tech-savvy household with the Sonos One speaker, which is directly integrated with  Amazon Alexa for maximum convenience.

Sonos One, $199, SONOS. Sonos.com.

3. Alpaca check blanket, AGNONA

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Image: Agnona.

This elegantly cozy blanket will keep its wearer warm and pampered all season long.

Alpaca check blanket, $1,250, AGNONA. Agnona.com.

4. Lambskin trench coat, BURBERRY

Burberry
Image: Burberry.

A perfect gift for the bold dresser in your life, this patent lambskin trench coat will make a statement in any scenario.

Raglan-sleeve patent lambskin trench coat, $3,595, BURBERRY. Burberry.com.

5. Ankle strap pump, CALVIN KLEIN

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Image: Calvin Klein.

This playful shoe knows how to have fun — perfect for the party girl in your life.

Cut-out ankle strap pump, $995, CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC. Available at Calvin Klein, NYC and Barneys.com.

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Shop the Trend: Dad Sneakers

Happy Holidays! We select the year’s biggest trends and how to shop them in this easy guide. This week: Dad Sneakers.

Retro influenced Dad Sneakers (also called ‘ugly sneakers’ but I feel that’s a little harsh) have left the suburbs and leapt onto the runways of international designers including Balenciaga, Gucci, and Dior. With Lisa Trautmann of Refinery29 citing the design influences as “avant-garde and interrogative movement of Cubism, or the designs of Deconstructivism,” and Jake Woolf of GQ declaring it “equal parts normcore and menswear’s next wave,” it’s evident that the bold and chunky silhouettes of the footwear trend mean business. We select a few highlights to purchase for a friend, or to match with the light wash mom/dad jeans you bought in 2014. I still wear mine!

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Perfect for the Gen-X cyber goth in your life, this Vetements and Reebok sneaker is a mixed material extravaganza featuring mesh, neoprene, and faux-leather. These babies say ‘I’m a bad boy with a taste for luxury and sole comfort.’ And the thick sole is sure to give you a few extra inches in height.

$990 available online at Ssense and The Webster.

gucci---sneakerImage: Gucci.

This Gucci Rhyton leather sneaker takes the classic white sneaker and roughs it up a little, giving it a distressed look that directly contrasts the clean minimalism that’s dominated my Instagram feed over the years. Also available with a logo print so you can really rep your brand loyalty. Love it.

$740 at Gucci stores and online.

acne---sneakersImage: Acne Studios.

These ones are cool because of the reptilian color palette. The Green Sofiane Neo Sneakers from Acne Studios contributes adds a rugged layer to the chunky footwear, with earthy seafoam tones that give it a neutral glow perfect for nature.

$510 available at Acne Studios and online.

adidas-originalsImage: adidas.

This one is perfect for the guy on Grindr who’s into hiking. Or the straight guy who’s into hiking. Either way, the adidas Originals by Alexander Wang Hike shoes (one of their many collaborative efforts) is the perfect glamping companion, adding monochromatic sophistication to any mountain trek.

$230 at adidas stores and online.

asos---sneakersImage: ASOS.

If you’re really feeling festive, consider these rich red velvet sneakers from ASOS and give your feet the red carpet treatment like Tom from Parks and Recreation. I’m sure Santa Clause himself would buy a pair, if only they shipped to the North Pole. Food for thought!

$48 at ASOS.

 

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2016 Holiday Gift Guide for Yourself

The crisp flick of a black card is a sinful, self-indulgent holiday treat when they’re your bags to take home. Here to help you partake in a smarter form of vice, we present the 2016 Holiday Gift Guide for Yourself. Of course, any selfish grab can be balanced by a few humble purchases for the other important people in your life: check back next week for delicious picks for the rest of your squad.

1. Zipped Bi-Fold Wallet, ALEXANDER WANG

Image: Alexander Wang.

Banish all thoughts of demure or introverted tendencies with this statement-making accessory from Alexander Wang.

Alexander Wang zipped bi-fold wallet, $250. Available at Alexander Wang, NYC and AlexanderWang.com.

2. Classic 11 Shields, SAINT LAURENT

Image: Saint Laurent.

Don’t go quietly into winter this season with a fuzzy piece from Saint Laurent giving a daring new meaning to eye-catching.

Saint Laurent special edition classic 11 shields, $675. SaintLaurent.com.

3.  Sk8 Hi & Old School, VANS x DSM

Image: Vans x DSM.

Throw it back with these checkered kicks from DSMNY and Vans, black and white nostalgia pumped with a modern flair.

Vans x DSM old school in black and white, $64. Available at DOVER STREET MARKET NEW YORK and NewYork.DoverStreetMarket.com.

4. Snake Print Silk Scarf, GUCCI

Image: Gucci.

Wrap yourself up in this truly sleek accessory from Gucci, the printed snake design a tightly coiled, decadent motif.

Snake print silk scarf, $465. Available at select Gucci stores nationwide and Gucci.com.

5. Mini Tool Box, LOUIS VUITTON


Image: Louis Vuitton.

Jet set in style with Louis Vuitton’s latest opulent addition to a line of iconic cases and travel sets.

Louis Vuitton mini tool box, price upon request. Available at select Louis Vuitton stores, 866-Vuitton, and LouisVuitton.com.

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Dover Street Market London Re-Opens as Multi-Story Store in Haymarket

Dover-Street-Market---Raf-Simons---Second-FloorImage: Dover Street Market.

The relocated Dover Street Market is now open for business in a building constructed by Thomas Burberry in the early 1900s in London’s Haymarket with an interior enhanced by Comme Des Garçons‘ Rei Kawakubo, allowing featured brands to recreate their own spaces in a polychromatic environment that qualifies as anything but a retail shop.

Dover-Street-Market---Gucci---Second-FloorImage: Dover Street Market.

The installations and build-outs are multi-facets of the DSM partners, such as Rick OwensVetements, and Thom Browne, settling on extreme contrasts in the positioning of a merchandise in which clothing and accessories are split up between floors in a distributed atmosphere of design.

Dover-Street-Market---Laberythn---Second-FloorImage: Dover Street Market.

The central staircase pierces through all floors, and at each level there is a theme that connects the set of stairs, beginning with a Pirosmani installation on the first floor.

Dover-Street-Market--DSM-Sneaker-Space---Basement--(3)Image: Dover Street Market.

In addition to the interior madness, a musical air configures each of the five floors with a carefully curated selection of wide-ranging music. Special items, displays, and capsule collections are also part of this incredible experience that leaves customers in awe in this mix of music, art, and fashion.