Saint Laurent recently announced plans to relocate its headquarters and showrooms to the historic heritage site of Penthémont Cistercian Abbey at 37 Rue de Bellechasse in the 7th arrondissement of Paris, following the move of the brand’s Parisian Salons de Couture and ateliers to the Hotel de Sénecterre in January of last year. This exciting new development is slated for 2018—after the completion of restoration work—and will finalize the Saint Laurent Reform Project, Creative Director Hedi Slimane’s long-winded strategy to anchor the historical house in the heart of the Parisian Left Bank. The move intends to be an homage to the French house’s iconic creators, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, within the Rue de Babylone and Rue Bonaparte tradition. The architectural complex, dating back to 1671 and reworked during the 18th century, has evolved with France’s colorful history and is decorated with several commemorative plaques. Many famous young women were educated in the abbey before it was converted into barracks for the imperial guard after the revolution, and then later became one of the head offices of the Ministry of Defense during the Third Republic. Currently the site is home to the French Armed Forces.
The creative director of Kent and Curwen explains how a self-proclaimed fashion ostrich redefines a heritage brand.
Essential Homme: Congratulations are in order for your relatively new postion, as Spring/Summer 2015 marks your second season holding the reins at Kent and Curwen. Looking back to last year, what did you find to be the most compelling aspect in accepting the role?
Simon Spurr: I saw it as an opportunity to create something amazing with a blank canvas. On one hand, to grow a brand that is unheard of in America or in Europe is a challenge. On the other, to change a brand that has a heritage so deeply rooted in Asia, where it has a huge retail footprint, is another. The push and pull of both was very attractive.
EH: Distinctly British, the house of Kent and Curwen has been dressing English nobility, such as His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales and His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, since 1926. Given the fact that you hail from Kent in South East England, are there any parallels that can be drawn between your own heritage and the brand’s?
SS: Because I am British there are a lot of subconscious and subliminal reference points. I am very proud of being English, and to work for an English brand is obviously a great marriage. Many have a specific expectation or head-to-toe image in mind when they think of a ‘heritage brand.’ It has heritage, but Kent and Curwen doesn’t have to be just that. There are some truly amazing brands (Paul Stuart, Brooks Brothers, and Ralph Lauren) that execute a ‘heritage’ demeanor very well, but that is not my natural style and I don’t believe that the market necessarily needs another ‘heritage’ menswear brand. The more I feel like I am constrained, the more I push to break free, so there might be that slight element of rebelliousness.
Image: Kent and Curwen.
EH: Specifically, Kent and Curwen’s cricket culture dates back to the 1930s when it first introduced the iconic V-neck cable knit sweater for players. Given its historic standing, and with regards to development from yourself, how has this aspect of the house remained the same?
SS: It really hasn’t. I was brought on to modernize the brand and give it a bit of my own flavor. [Before starting], I spent some time researching Kent and Curwen, and it became apparent that it needed to become more relevant in the market place. My first season, I included elements of this cricket heritage and I found that it was not something that a customer today clings on to; cricket is not a widely played sport, and it’s very difficult to reinvent every season. We chose to dispel this idea, and that is evident in the Spring/Summer 2015 collection.
EH: How was that separation accomplished?
SS: It came down to pushing the boundaries of what people expected from both the company and me. The ‘Splinter’ print from the runway show was very symbolic. In the same way that a musician might do to a guitar on stage, we took a cricket bat and smashed it so that it splintered out. The end result was a black and white print, which appears shattered. By dispelling this idea of cricket heritage, it [allowed] the brand to move on free of its former self, and to become more relevant for a new, youthful audience.
Image: Kent and Curwen.
EH: The complete Spring/Summer 2015 collection was exquisitely diverse. Leather motor-wear and intonations of rock ‘n’ roll perfectly complemented distinctive themes of military, while simultaneously showcasing a debonair demeanor in fine tailored suiting. What were some of the other concepts behind it?
SS: The collection was very intentional. It was based on the idea of a frontman; this could be the protagonist of our time, an actor, or even musician. It’s very unapologetic clothing that is both inspirational and aspirational. If you were to inspect David Bowie or Mick Jagger’s wardrobe, you would see great variation of product that is quite eclectic. There is no clear explanation as to who the David Bowie of our generation would be, but this persona and style simply cannot be recreated.
EH: Any particularly favorite pieces?
SS: There is a formal leather biker jacket that was offered in black this fall that has been reintroduced in white for Spring/Summer 2015. This is an example of the brand’s new DNA. We have taken ownership of this particular jacket and created a signature piece that has become an integral part of the brand’s seasonal evolution. You can expect to see this jacket demonstrated in an oxblood tone next autumn.
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The more I feel like I am constrained, the more I push to break free.
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EH: Before Kent and Curwen, you’ve had your own admirably long fashion lineage, working at Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, among others, and you even launched your own line in 2006. Who are some of your personal favorite designers or sources of inspirations?
SS: As a self-proclaimed fashion ostrich, I don’t really have any specific favorite designers. I’ve always considered myself to be more of an artist than a designer. It’s a feeling for me and I don’t design for myself. Hedi [Slimane] made a tremendous impact on my career at Yves Saint Laurent when I was impressionable. Tommy Fazio picked up my old line for Bergdorf Goodman, and he once told me, ‘stay true to your own DNA,’ which has applied to both my career and individual path. When it comes to core values, I fight hard for the things I believe in. I stand behind the work that I do, even if it’s criticized or applauded, as long I am happy with it. I can sleep well at night knowing that I stay true to myself.
EH: What the most unforgettable experience you had designing with Slimane?
SS: I remember him throwing a color direction book into the trash can and saying that we didn’t follow trends, that instead we created them. This was very symbolic of Hedi’s outlook on the whole industry. He has a strong vision that he believes in and he goes after it.
EH: Every New Yorker covets thy neighbor’s closet. What does yours look like?
SS: I recently moved back into the city from Williamsburg [Brooklyn] with my girlfriend. Two wardrobes sharing one apartment could easily present a challenge, but we have our own individual closets. Mine can be described as very “Gattaca.” All of the hangers are identical and face the same exact way. Leather jackets are uniformly merchandised together. Outerwear is organized by length (short to medium to long). Suiting is actually in a separate closet, and pieces are color coded at all times—even my T-shirt drawers. This isn’t very difficult given the fact that the color palette consists of gray and black. I’ve stayed true to that uniform for about seven years now, and it has nothing to do with the fact that I work in fashion. It’s simply easier for me.
EH: As Kent and Curwen continues to evolve and move forward, is there a man you envision to be the ideal icon of the future? What kind of demeanor would he possess?
SS: He’s progressive. He’s personally understated, but also very Ryan Gosling; he has the ability to play many roles. There is a sensitivity and rawness to him that has remained quite private. He also seems to be very selective.
EH: Given this discerning direction and evolution, do you see the brand as rising into a luxury category?
SS: The brand is actually morphing into sportswear. Autumn/Winter 2015 will be comfortable but advanced, with elements of mixed media. I see Kent and Curwen as a contemporary brand, constantly evolving and defining its own DNA.
Once again drawing from today’s music scene, high-end streetwear brand ELEVENPARIS recruited former Girls frontman and Saint Laurent model Christopher Owens to star in the clothier’s just-out-of-bed, LA meets Paris campaign for Spring/Summer 2015.
No longer under wraps, textures of various prints and fine fabrics congregate in the crisp daytime, granting handsomely tailored layers for the season.
Photographed by Zeb Daemen | Styled by Alex Van Der Steen
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Models: Otto at New Madison and Felix at Ulla. Hair by Nina Olivet. Photo Assistant: Koen Vernimmen. Fashion Assistant: Veronica Sarah Neuhard
Another note in Creative Director Hedi Slimane’s musical orchestra of rock ‘n’ roll styled tailored wear—complete with animal printed denim and silks, low-rising jeans (tighter than ever!), and fine jewelry that shines just a bit brighter in the dirty grit of nature—Saint Laurent looks back to the ’60s for PYSCH ROCK, the fashion house’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Photographed by Slimane himself in his iconic high-contrast, black and white style, the campaign for the collection sways through the period of peace of love in nostalgically indie yet modernly rockin’ outfits.
So we’ve got you covered, but what about Mom, the sister, your loved one, and the little rascals (furry included)? Don’t worry, gift guidance, like the holiday spirit, doesn’t just stop at your own stocking. Here’s some seasonal suggestions for the rest of the crew.
1. Boxy fur coat, FENDI
Image: Far Fetch.
FOR HER
What is a more lavish present than a fur jacket? How about a double dose. This two-toned emerald and gray mink coat completes any look with chicness and comfortable warmth.
Though ladies sure do love to play dress up, sometimes it can get expensive. Get this all-in-one, witty one-piece and give your girl a cute cover up with some extra imagination.
We’ve been making a list and checking it—along with our bank accounts to keep us from getting too crazy—twice, and let’s just say it’s looking like a pretty cheery season. Here’s your long-awaited wish list for gift giving/receiving/begging for you, your brother, dad, cousin, uncle and all the other dudes in your life, no matter what holiday is to be celebrated.
1. Cable-knit wool and cashmere-blend rollneck sweater, TOMORROWLAND
Image: Tomorrowland.
Comfy, cold, and cool—there is just enough thickness in this blended sweater to pad the fall after passing out post holiday brunch.
Because last year’s leather trousers just aren’t cutting it anymore, you know? This tailored pair features Acne Studio’s precise construction and contemporary stamp of cool.
6. Tabasco-oxidation sneaker in deep orange, GUCCI
Image: Gucci.
This limited edition sneaker is a fiery blast of color that bursts forward thoughts of sunny days, Tabasco sauce, and reese’s pieces. It’s a strange combination, but—like your own annual family get together—sure to at least be interesting.
Mikky Ekko has been busy. Since his 2009 debut, the singer-songwriter has released multiple EPs, collaborated with Rihanna (2013’s Stay), and co-composed a Christina Aguilera single (We Remain, from “The Hunger Games: Catching Fire” soundtrack), in addition to a vast iTunes collection of other projects. Currently he is working on his debut album, Time—produced by Clams Casino (among others) and dropping on January 20, 2015—but the artist carved out some time to chat with us, breaking down his choices of fall footwear by days of the week. From Rick Owens to Saint Laurent, Ekko’s taste ensures that he’s prepared on and off stage.
MONDAY
Ann Demeulemeester Suede High-top Sneakers
Made in Italy, these leather-lined suede high-tops feature matte-black hardware and side zippers for easy wear.
Mikky: “I love a rugged sneaker. Skater-tuck and roll my black jeans then head to the show.”
Continuing both brands’ successful collaboration, the new Tech Runner sneaker features a mix of materials and a sculpted sole for a truly futuristic look.
Mikky: “umm… besides looking awesome enough to rock with a hoverboard, i can run in them too? Sold”
The Fall/Winter 2014 Menswear collections yielded surprisingly synergistic layering combinations: bombers over button-ups, double-riders under coats, and turtlenecks and sweaters worn together, all seemingly effortless. With the weather cooling down, we found four unexpected, runway-inspired ways to ready you for winter, regardless of the occasion.
This winter leave the leather jacket alone for warmer weather, and opt instead for a long woolen coat: yes, the kind you’ve seen in old movies that effortlessly exudes distinguished maturity. Forget the professor and grandpa stereotypes, because with designers from Marc Jacobs to Haider Ackermann reinterpreting the classic garment for their Fall/Winter 2014 collections, it’s time to embrace the warmth of this menswear staple.
Haider AckermannImage: Style.com.
Overcoat (left) vs. topcoat (right)Image: Wikipedia.
For centuries, long coats have served as the outermost layer in cold weather, often possessing an air of formality above their rigid layers. Traditionally worn over a suit—if you’re still zipping up a puffy ski jacket over yours, stop and take note—or as part of a military uniform, different styles were categorized by length, with overcoats extending below the knee and lighter weight topcoats finishing above it. Today, these distinctions are largely irrelevant, and the coats can be worn with both casual and formal outfits, making them particularly versatile pieces.
Dolce&GabbanaImage: FarFetch.com.
Saint Laurent Image: Ssense.com.
Yet just because this style has steeped forward from history, don’t take that as a literal order to don your dad’s shapeless coat and call it “vintage.” Modern interpretations update the design with contemporary flair, ensuring class without appearing outdated. This season Dolce&Gabbana rolls out a double-breasted version in a full bold red moment, while Saint Laurent offers a bold leopard print in Hedi Slimane’s unmistakable rocker image. Both of these which instantly brightening up any winter ensemble—something we could all use more of during the desaturated and dreary months following December.
Ann DemeulemeesterImage: MrPorter.com.
More conservative options include the Ann Demeulemeester shawl-collar wool-blend and Bottega Veneta reversible mohair-blend, both in rich shades of textured gray, making for a dashing look. And if you just can’t give up leather, Neil Barrett delivers a flourish with leather sleeves adorning the wool body of his signature minimalist design. With such a variety options, traditional sophistication easily translates into contemporary style. Button up any of these coats, and you’ll be yearning for cold weather just to show it off. Ready yourself to set the sartorial standard.
While we hate to admit it, women might be are definitely winning the battle of having the best places to shop, as evidenced by the recent re-opening of Saint Laurent’s new retail concept located at 326 North Rodeo Drive. The massive 10,000 square foot space—which was designed by Creative Director Hedi Slimane—is comprised of three modern Art Deco-inspired floors and is the brand’s largest women’s store in the world.
Image: Saint Laurent.
Featuring rich, white marble floors, and polished ebony-hued walls, the interior has an overall monochromatic color palette and is contrasted with geometric accents in silver and brass. The resulting effect is a study on the juxtaposition of elegance with edge that makes up the iconic brand’s DNA. The store’s first floor is solely dedicated to the Paris-based label’s casual offerings, while the second floor gives shoppers a more intimate experience with ready-to-wear and shoes. The private dressing salon—which takes up the space’s third floor—will, undoubtedly, be a domain for VIP clients and may also lend itself to a few celebrity sightings come next year’s award season.
Image: Saint Laurent.
With its dramatic architectural features, vintage furniture, and intriguing African-art pieces, the new women’s Saint Laurent store is not only selling the latest look in it-girl fashion, but also offers an exciting interior to buy it in. You may have won this round ladies, but you won’t hold the torch for long.
