Part of an extended fall campaign, rag & bone premiered its latest “Time of Day” short shot on 16mm film by Thimios Bakatakis (of The Lobster fame) in an idiosyncratic manner so characteristic to the cinematographer, but also eluding to locations essential to the designer itself.
The film follows EH fall cover star Lakeith Stanfield, Emma Roberts, Kate Mara,Boyd Holbrook,Pom Klementieff, Reed Morano, Lake Bell, and Jon Hamm throughout different parts of the day in both New York or Los Angeles. In a handheld method, Bakatakis first follows Kate Mara in the East Village (where rag & bone was born) to Metropolitan Avenue in Williamsburg, where the first store was opened.
With limited dialogue and no direct storyline, the viewer is led down the rabbit hole of rag & bone fantasy in a Wes Anderson-esque film where the absurd starts to makes sense.
Every day there’s a new surprise as menswear designers get appointed to new labels and other designers are challenging the traditional fashion week schedule by changing locations and times when they show. Here we’ve compiled the latest shake ups to hit the industry this past season:
Image: Louis Vuitton.
Changes to Menswear Design
Back in March, Virgil Abloh, the creative director of high-fashion-streetwear label Off-White and former creative director for Kanye West, was announced as Louis Vuitton’s new artistic director for menswear.
Aside from being the French brand’s first African-American artistic director, Abloh is set to further blur the lines between luxury and streetwear. With Abloh’s strong connection to the youth and upcoming generation of fashion-moguls, the designer’s appointment ultimately has the potential to make menswear at Louis Vuitton more relevant to younger consumers. If the brand’s past collaboration with Supreme is any indication, appointing this role to someone so embedded with youth culture will yield magic results.
Before Abloh, Kim Jones held the reigns at the label for seven years. During his time, Jones brought a hefty list of successes to the brand, collaborating with artist Jake Chapman and aforementioned Supreme. Jones’ final show at Louis Vouis Vuitton was held in 2017, and he since joined Dior Homme as their new creative director — the first look at his work there was featured on David Beckham at the Royal Wedding.
Additionally, Christopher Bailey departed his position at Burberry. After 17 years at the company, Bailey finishes his time at Burberry by paying homage to the LGBTQ+ youth in his last show in February 2018. Ricardo Tisci, Givenchy’s former creative director, is set to replace Bailey and take the streets with Burberry.
Image: Gucci.
Fashion Week Goes Global
Departing from the traditional fashion week schedule, Alexander Wang is set to leave New York Fashion Week after 11 years. Wang has ultimately built a foundation and prestigious reputation in New York City’s fashion scene since the debut of his womenswear line in 2007.
Following his final city show in February, which took place in Vogue’s old office above Times Square, Wang says that he will combine his pre-collection and ready-to-wear collection to be shown in June and December rather than the typical February and September. Wang is only one of the many designers that have left the continuously shrinking New York Fashion Week. Other designers that have departed include Rodarte, Rag & Bone and Altuzarra.
Also leaving the NYFW roster is Raf Simons. Unlike Wang, Simons has announced that he will be showing his SS 2019 collection in Paris after his past three seasons in New York. Gucci also announced that it will debut it’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection in Paris instead of it’s usual home-base in Milan. This move will ultimately serve as the final part of Alessandro Michele’s, the brand’s creative director, three-part homage to France.
The series of french narratives within Gucci’s latest collections began in Michele’s campaign #GucciDansLaRue (translates to: Gucci in the streets) which ultimately reflected the 1968 student protests in Paris. This is to be followed by the brand’s cruise line set to take place in Arles, France which is credited to have inspired many french philosophers and artists. After the final presentation of the french-inspired series, Gucci will return to Milan in February 2019.
With Alexander Wang’s permanent departure and Gucci and Simmon’s seasonal departure, it is interesting to see the flexible– arguably rebellious, nature of designers towards traditional runway schedules.
Image: Givenchy SS18.
Now Introducing Menswear…
In a striking move, Hedi Slimane was announced as Celine’s new artistic director. The French designer has previously brought ample amounts of success to brands like Saint Laurent and Dior Homme, having implemented signature rock styles and skinny, skinny silhouettes into both labels.
Slimane is geared to change Celine’s aesthetic as he has total control over, not only designs, but marketing campaigns and store designs. To shake things up more, Slimane is to introduce the brand’s first menswear line adding on to the fast growing men’s fashion industry — his first collection will debut in September 2019.
Former creative director at ChloeClare Waight Keller tackled her first Haute Couture show with Givenchy in Paris on January 23rd of this year. Although Keller received major praise for her exciting addition of bright colors to the brand’s usual monochromatic color palette, her introduction of Men’s Haute Couture was undoubtedly the most stunning addition to her show.
Her designs in men’s haute couture came in only three ensembles and included a beaded blazer and long-length blue leather trench coat. Keller’s move to create men’s haute couture is unique as the ensembles remained harmonious with the rest of the collection– a move not often seen by major brands.
With men’s fashion icons such as A$AP Rocky, Luka Sabbat, and Harry Styles, it’s hard to imagine other major fashion labels not taking note of Keller’s inclusion.
And finally, the most awaited of the season is women’s designer Jacquemus who will debut his men’s collection in the South of France this June. Highly celebrated for his unique shapes and drapery, Simon Porte Jacquemus is expected to take men’s fashion by storm and perhaps even steal the spotlight from Virgil.
The new leather-wrapped “Made in Italy” special edition capsule features aviator inspired vintage sunnies. Available in 4 colors, the triple bridge and iconic dagger-shaped temples are made of metal giving them an authentic looks as if teleported from the 70’s. Groovy~
DRINK: Mexican Mule
Who doesn’t love an easy cocktail recipe? DeLeón tequila has the perfect one for this weekend. Grab a bottle and you’re all set. You’re welcome!
Tomato vines, wild primrose and the sun-drenched, rolling Tuscan hills… Sounds like the ideal summer escape. But while that’s less likely, the new Tocca home fragrance collection consisting of a diffuser ($35), a candle ($42), a hand soap ($20), and a hand lotion ($22) is a cocktail of all Tuscan scents and will transport you back to the good old Italia — to really drive the concept home, light the candle while streaming Call Me By Your Name.
LISTEN:Accelerate – Christina Aguilera, Ty Dolla $ign, 2 Chainz
Pop legend and Queen of Screaming Christina Aguilera is back and we are LIVING! After announcing her long-awaited eighth studio album, Liberation (out June 15th), Xtina released her comeback single Accelerate. Produced by a pre-Trump-endorsing Kanye West and featuring guest appearances from 2 Chainz and Ty Dolla $ign, the single is a kinetic bop that unfortunately doesn’t fully utilize Xtina’s pipes. I miss the screaming, but I’m sure that she’ll deliver with future releases leading up to the album drop. Until then we’ll make do with this — it’s Xtina, after all.
Seed is an all American brand aimed at making the surrounding world a cleaner environment and your grooming routine a safer one as well. Start preparing your hair for the summer now with Seed’s shampoo and conditioner. The products use sunflower seed oil, camelina seed oil, coconut, shea butter, and turmeric to nourish hair and keep it healthy and strong. Plus, the bottles are made from 100% post-consumer recycled paper with a post-consumer recycled liner.
This week’s complete social snapshot, distilled for your pleasure.
From the hottest celebrity parties to the regretful morning-after shots, ESSENTIAL HOMME‘s Weekly Instagram Roundup brings all of the hottest designer, model, and trendsetting pics from the week directly to you. After all, no one has time to scroll through anything but the best.
Dior Homme
Actor Rami Malek turned heads at this year’s Comme des Garçons-themed Met Gala wearing a piece from Kris Van Assche’s Dior Homme. The startlingly dyed suit matches the same macabre setting as similar releases from the French house—including its Paris Fashion Week runway and the recent Dark Light collection—whereas the rockstar vibe pairs perfectly with Malek’s upcoming Freddie Mercury portrayal in the just-announced Queen biopic.
Rag & Bone
To highlight this year’s “May the 4th be with you” day of makeshift “Star Wars” celebrations, Rag & Bone shared a throwback pic of actor Mark Hamill filming on set of the original film. As an active participant in the New York clothier’s Men’s Project campaign, Hamill is no stranger to the British heritage meets modern design collections of the brand, previously divulging his insight and filmic savvy in a dizzyingly visual homage to its daring style.
Fendi
The iconic Italian brand brought Mediterranean magic to the Guangzhou region of China with a Sun & Fun & Fendi pop-up. Located in the Taikoo Hui complex, the brand showcased its breezy Spring/Summer 2017 collection amongst electric lights, LED screens, and classic Italian vehicles for a #FendiRoma extravaganza. Be sure not to miss the multi-colored cotton jacket, a scene-stealer in the brand’s recent Spring/Summer 2017 eyewear campaign, starring ESSENTIAL HOMME August/September 2016 cover star Hopper Penn.
Brioni
Brioni got its start in 1945 as a men’s fashion boutique to the stars. Continuing in its heritage ideals, the brand dressed actor Michael Fassbender for the recent “Alien: Covenant” premiere in London. The bespoke three-piece suit and silk tie branches off the brand’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection with its deep-dyed color and smoky detailing.
Tom Brady
New England Patriot’s quarterback Tom Brady flexed his fashion muscles at this year’s Met Gala as an honorary co-chair alongside his wife, model Gisele Bundchen. Posing here with fellow co-host Anna Wintour, the footballer arrived to the celebrity fête in a silver velvet dinner jacket from Tom Ford, very much on trend with the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2017 lookbook.
Rag & Bone‘s cinematic off-shoot, Rag & Bone Films, sees its star rise with the inclusion of its latest short, “HAIR,” in the upcoming Tribeca Film Festival. Starring Bobby Cannavale and John Turturro, who also assumes the director’s chair, the 5-minute film is a real-world first for the studio, its cinéma vérité quality allowing viewers to assume an observational position as the two actors contemplate the finer points of personality through hair. A true passion project for Turturro, the film, located in his hometown of Brooklyn and shot by his “The Night Of” collaborator Fred Elmes, is an industry shakeup, a pivoted perspective of fashion’s place in today’s cinematic landscape. Though “HAIR” presents Rag & Bone’s very first documentary-style piece, the film follows the high-reaching 2015 release of “The Driver,” the short-form, Michael Pitt starrer that released in unison with his monochromatic Spring/Summer 2015 campaign.
Tickets to see “HAIR” at the Tribeca Film Festival are available online now.
Redefining how artists of all disciplines can represent fashion, New York label rag & bone launches its latest Men’s Project film installment with rapper Wiz Khalifa, best known for his chart-topping single “Black and Yellow.” The video features the rapper inside a dimly-lit bar, surrounded by flickering signs and old television screens. The arcade-like videography is coupled with the sounds of a pinball machine as Khalifa models the rag & bone collection, pairing a tartan jacket with a red sweater and accessorizing with dark shades and heavy gold chains. In the photography collection the rapper poses with carefree coolness inside the bar and behind chain-link fences. The installment comes as the eighth in the Men’s Project series, which most recently featured actor Mark Hamill, and continues its tradition of reflecting the artist portrayed; Khalifa is outfitted in a style mirroring his own taste, even choosing the film’s unique location. “Our goal with the Project was to capture each artist’s personality and sense of style,” says rag & bone co-CEO Marcus Wainwright. “These are guys we genuinely admire – for their talent, their attitude, their style.”
The rag & bone Men’s Project campaign is available online now.
Fresh off its Spring/Summer 2017 runway, rag & bone releases the new installation of its Men’s Project visual campaign, this time collaborating with legendary actor Mark Hamill, best known for his work in the Star Wars film series. The project expresses Hamill’s personality and creativity by letting him choose his own style, capturing the details of the clothing and reworking them to Hamill’s individual energy. The New York brand continues to innovate the presentation of its fashion offerings through this series, which features nine artists – Harvey Keitel, John Turturro, Mikhail Barshnikov, Mauro Refosco, Honor Titus, Joey Waronker, David Flinn and Wiz Kahlifa – and is shot by talented photographer Andreas Laszlo Konrath, who has worked previously with the brand on a 2015 photo series. By creating imagery that represents the diversity of the rag & bone man, the videos builds a connection with its audience and sends out a message of attitude and talent in its own capacity. Hamill joins a group of men who are authentic individuals that embody the mailable spirit of the brand.
The rag & bone Men’s Project Campaign can be viewed in its entirety online now.
Designer Marcus Wainwright brought playful proportions and a dramatic flair to the rag & bone Spring/Summer 2017 runway at New York Fashion Week for his first collection on his own with the label. Seemingly pulled from the closets of British aristocrats and Upper East Siders, then drenched in an off-beat SoHo vibe, the collection is a stylized walk on the dangerous side and an effortlessly cool rebellion.
Rag & bone is collaborating with Porter-Yoshida & Co, once again, on a new series of bags for the Autumn/Winter 2016 season: a gym bag, rucksack, and pencil case. The three bags are constructed in classic aviator nylon, a natural extension of the bomber jacket down to the color palette – navy, army green, and black, all with an orange lining.
Image: rag & bone.
Image: rag & bone.
The fabrication gives these classic shapes a military-inspired update: the cylindrical gym bag and four-pocket rucksack look instantly cooler when outfitted in the light-catching nylon; the pencil case looks sleek and sporty, the perfect companion to throw in either bigger bag. Inspired by the Japanese brand’s Tanker Series, rag & bone adds its custom touch with snaps, logo patches, and leather-reinforced handles and straps, propelling this distinguished brand partnership in a bold new direction.
The bags will be available for purchase online and in stores August 2016.
In a new act of rebellion against the traditional fashion ad campaign calendar, rag & bone releases The Men’s Project, a year-long endeavor focusing on nine men from an array of disciplines. Each subject is an artist in their own right, including dancer and choreographer Mikhail Baryshnikov, actor Mark Hamill, musician Wiz Khalifa, and, most recently, world-renowned percussionist Mauro Refosco, best recognized as member of the Red Hot Chilli Peppers. Refosco’s ad features both photographs and a video, a model that the venture will follow for each featured man. The individual shoots take place in a location of the artist’s choice, wearing rag & bone selections that best mirror their personal style. The Men’s Project aims to embody the spirit of the models, while also representing rag & bone as a brand.
Look out fellow fashionistos, here comes the most anticipated event of the fashion month: the very first New York Fashion Week: Men’s. With merely days left on the countdown, we compiled a list of the shows and presentation that we are most excited about this season. It’s okay if you can’t join us, though, all you have to do is sit back, relax, and stay tuned for exclusive coverage just for you.
Tuesday, July 14, 2015
OVADIA & SONS AW15. Image: Essential Homme.
Ovadia & Sons
Hailing from Brooklyn, the Ovadia brothers of Ovadia & Sons follow in the footsteps of their father’s garment business to present a one-of-a-kind, preppy menswear.
Public School
A hallmark of sleek menswear infused with rebellious street style, the distinctively New York City label Public School never fails to offer rule-breaking designs.
Concept Korea
Concept Korea is an exclusive New York Fashion Week show founded in 2010, tailored to introduce Korean aesthetic culture to a wider venue through distinct designers every season—this time the show includes: Kang Dong-jun of DBYD and Jang Hyung-chul of Ordinary People.
Todd Snyder
With previous influences to and from Polo Ralph Lauren, Gap, and J. Crew, Todd Snyder’s designs are distinctly gentlemanish with a pinch of urban.
Rochambeau
Rochambeau is a brainchild of longtime friends and business partners Laurence Chandler and Josh Cooper whose favorite muses feature glamorous scoundrels of the city.
N. Hoolywood AW15. Image: Essential Homme.
N. Hoolywood
Its brand ethos comprising “North,” “Hollywood,” and “hooligan,” the Japanese fashion house N. Hoolywood epitomizes funky high-end menswear—edgy with a dab of retro spirit.
Thom Browne
A must-have in any man’s closet is Thom Browne’s signature fitted, shrunken suits: a uniform of the modern dandy.
Calvin Klein Collection
Since 1968, Calvin Klein has been a no-brainer staple of sharp and chic designs.
Anzevino Getty
Founded by Californians William Anzevino and August Getty, Anzevino Getty focuses on highlighting the distinctly West Coast luxe vibe.
Duckie Brown AW15. Image: Essential Homme.
Duckie Brown
Hand-tailoring, distinctive fabrics, and vibrant colors reign Duckie Brown’s collections with a mission of “dressing men beautifully.”
Rag & Bone
Started off to offer quality jeans, Rag & Bone has since become a uniform of luxury street-style.
Wednesday, July 15, 2015
Perry Ellis AW15. Image: Essential Homme.
Perry Ellis
Perry Ellis’s designs are centered on the sportswear ethos of its birth with an appreciation for innovative and unconventional details.
John Elliott & Co
With painstaking focus on manufacturing, John Elliott & Co is all about the highest-quality essentials.
Michael Bastian
Its brand philosophy treading both the luxurious and the broken-down, Michael Bastian came into men’s fashion to offer a new American voice.
Richard Chai AW15. Image: Essential Homme.
Richard Chai
Richard Chai’s bold and experimental vision marks him as one of the “new Asian” influences on modern design.
Tim Coppens
Last year’s winner of the CFDA Swarovski Award for Menswear, Tim Coppens influences both street culture and high fashion.
Michael Kors
There is a reason for Michael Kors’s explosive success both on screen and runway—he defines luxurious classics.
Tommy Hilfiger
For decades, globally recognized label Tommy Hilfiger has brought the “classic American cool” to the runway.
Billy Reid AW15. Image: Essential Homme.
Billy Reid
Awarded as the best new designer in America by multiple platforms, Billy Reid is now a hallmark of broken-down and colloquial designs.
Nautica
A water-inspired global lifestyle brand, Nautica focuses on introducing high-performance classics with authentic style.
Thursday, July 16, 2015
Orley AW15. Image: Essential Homme.
Orley
Family-run brand Orley specializes in quality knitwear with its signature refined yet youthful essence.
Parke & Ronen
Sun-ready, Parke & Ronen’s swimwear collections are simple and refined yet with sensuality galore.
Robert Geller
A NYC-based German designer Robert Geller is not afraid to play with the conventions, presenting experimental proportions and details while staying true to German practicality and focus on quality.
Siki Im
More a spiritual guide than a technician, Siki Im seeks to create clothing that is distinctly natural and human—soft, disproportionate, and serendipitous.
John Varvatos
John Varvatos redefines hot and dangerous, instilling a sense of ruggedness to even the sharpest designs.
Polo Ralph Lauren
Polo Ralph Lauren embodies the ultimate American classic with refinement and elegance motoring its pieces.
J. Lindeberg AW15. Image: Essential Homme.
J.Lindeberg
With its distinct sense of cool, J. Lindeberg creates classic pieces perfect for winding cobblestone streets.
Lucio Castro
A dedicated cinephile, Lucio Castro draws his creativity from films, establishing character from clothing that is unique in its texture, fabrics, and proportions.
Following a foreshadowing print campaign released earlier this year, actors Michael Pitt and Astrid Berges-Fresbey reunite again for rag & bone, this time under Pitt’s creative view for the just-released “The Driver.” The 18-minute short marks Pitt’s directorial debut, and examines in film noir drama the dark side of the American Dream. Featuring clothing by the American brand, a supporting role from British actor Stephen Graham, and a score from Pitt’s own rock band, Pagoda, the film pauses over New York City with raw emotional intensity.
