Tag Archives: punk

It’s All in the Details: Backstage at Dior Men’s Fall 2020

Embellishments were the clear star of Dior Men’s Fall 2020 collection, which debuted in Paris last week. Kim Jones cited British punk vanguard Judy Blame as the chief inspiration, and the presentation was framed as a tribute to the icon who passed away in 2018. Blame was pivotal in shaping Britain’s fashion scene in the ’80s and ’90s as a major editorial stylist for The Face and i-D, and his jewelry and other accessories made out of discarded objects from keys to animal bones have been repeatedly referenced over the years. As part of its tribute to the late Blame, Dior unveiled its own interpretation of his DIY creations by bejeweling coat lapels and knit sweaters and introducing a range of dangly necklaces and ornamented cluster keychains.

Take a look at some of the details up close in the video above. Watch the Dior Men’s Fall 2020 show here.

1017 Alyx and Blackmeans Deliver New Leather Capsule

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1017 ALYX 9SM has partnered with Japanese brand Blackmeans on a limited-edition fall capsule. Blackmeans is well known for its biker-inspired leather clothing often infused with hints of tribal influences and cloth cutting techniques in their designs.

1017 ALYX 9SM has reworked the classic leather jacket and jeans into a unique and edgy collaborative capsule. The collaboration’s centerpiece is a fitted leather jacket with an asymmetrical fit and kimono styled collar that is contrasted with hard silver details. The capsule also includes pairs of jeans that have been shredded beyond belief and enforced with a frayed cross-stitching technique.

Kim Jones Introduces the Dior Essentials

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Since trends and styles change so often it’s tough to keep track, it’s essential to have a core set of items in your wardrobe that are immune to the ephemeral tides of the fashion industry. Classic pieces like a black sweater. A pair of fitted jeans — not too Hedi Slimane skinny or skater boy baggy. The perfect white t-shirt. Stuff like that. Kim Jones, men’s creative director for Dior, recognizes this and is producing his own line of upscale essentials: Dior Essentials.

Dropping today, the new range from the French designer manages to achieve both a timeless appearance while still referencing the label’s legacy. A grey sweatshirt and black polo are both stamped with an embroidered ‘CD’ Dior logo on the chest. (This logo is also used as a buckle for a series of slim leather belts.) Arm patches on a black bomber jacket and overcoat are subtly shaped like the designer’s popular saddlebag. Trousers equipped with cargo pockets have been tailored properly to prevent the appearance of bulkiness. A leather jacket has been given exaggerated lapels for a more casual appearance. Tailoring has also been updated — some suits retain the sophisticated cut that redefined the silhouette in the ’50s (more on that here) while others reflect the changing scape of menswear today. One standard suit jacket is accessorized with ‘CD’ safety-pins for a little punk formality, while another is double-breasted with a single button for a more classic look.

For a brand that remains such a high-profile fixture every season, it’s refreshing to know they can deliver a core collection that feels seasonless. The Dior Essentials collection is available in select stores and online now.

Margiela Spring 2020 is a Political Wake-Up Call

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Military influences and a general sense of deconstruction were the key themes in Margiela‘s Spring 2020 collection. Balancing the theatrical showmanship of creative director John Galliano with the signature avant-garde minimalism that brought Maison Margiela to fame almost 30 years ago, the collection is a dramatic take on the realities of conflict. Uniforms were bluntly cropped and refabricated in unorthodox materials, trench coats were enhanced with perforated details (similar to army nets), and an assortment of headpieces, including helmets, nurse’s caps, and berets, further emphasized the military influence of the collection. Of course, a number of classic Margiela-isms were featured throughout the presentation, including white hand-painted boots, abstract graphic prints, and raw hems that elicited a sense of urgency.

Watch the Maison Margiela Spring 2020 show above now.

Schott x Dr. Martens Have Perfected the Leather Boot

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No two brands have dressed more punks than Dr. Martens and Schott. While both have long been revered as experts in their field — Dr. Martens has mastered the combat boot and Schott crafted the contemporary blueprint for every leather jacket ever — they are now teaming up on a limited-edition shoe collection. Collaborating on two Doc staple boots, the stage and street-ready 1460 and 1490, each has been crafted with premium leather and stamped with Schott’s distinct silver star stud, a punk seal of approval.

Vivienne Westwood’s SS/20 Campaign is a Call to Climate Action

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Long a matriarch of punk and outspoken climate activist, Vivienne Westwood has unveiled its latest campaign, “No Man’s Land,” in the fight against climate change. For Spring/Summer 2020, the designer is calling out Rot$, aka “Rotten Financial System,” as the cause of all problems and amplifying the need for immediate change for the sake of the planet.

“Real Wealth is land + human cleverness,” the brand said in a statement. “What nature provides should not be privately owned: it belongs to no man. ‘No Man’s Land‘ is our future.” The campaign also links to Climate Revolution, the label’s channel committed to educating about climate change.

Shot by Hugo Comte and styled by Sabina Schreder, the graphic campaign is a dynamic and punk series of images is a loud call to arms as the threat of climate change continues to rapidly escalate. Here the designer deploys her signature aggressive and animated tactics that established her label in the ’70s to a contemporary issue facing us today.

Watch the accompanying campaign video below now.

The Raf Simons x Fred Perry Collab is All About Hoops

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Raf Simons and Fred Perry have released a new unisex capsule collection from their ongoing collaboration. Inspired by European club culture (a signature of Simons), the latest gear mixes subversive elements with Fred Perry’s British heritage. Hardware is a recurring theme within the pieces, with silver hoop embellishments in the shape of Perry’s wreath logo that look like nipple piercings decorating several tops available in black and pink. Another standout is the printed polos that are adorned with photographs of punk youth shot by Gavin Watson and George Plember. As far as collaborations go, the fusion of Simons’ hedonism and Perry’s classic foundation come together pretty effectively.

The Raf Simons x Fred Perry collection is available at select stores and online now.

Converse Releases Archive Print Collection

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Whether you’re a total hypebeast or you’ve never bought your own clothes, Converse remains a universal footwear favorite. Plus, the all-American brand has found a way to fit in that rare sweet spot between ‘retro classic’ and ‘always trendy’ for at least 20 years. This phenomenon is definitely emphasized with the release of an Archive Print collection, a throwback line of shoes that recalls some of the finest printed styles from the brand’s extensive arsenal.

The collection is available in a variety of different Converse styles including the classic Chuck 70, Lucky Star, and One Star Academy. The camouflage print — in 1983, this was the first print they ever used — has been rounded out in a modern twist. A simple but effective flame print is available in both black and white shoes, some distressed for emphasis, to ensure that even your feet are able to enjoy the tail-end of #HotGirlSummer. And if you’re looking for a glam/punk/rock moment (literally who isn’t), leopard print shoes deliver on all fronts. In true Converse fashion (since 1908), there’s something for everyone.

The Converse Archive Prints collection is available in select stores and online now. Check out some of the styles in the gallery above.

Raymond Pettibon Inspired Dior’s FW ’19 Campaign

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For Dior‘s Fall/Winter 19-20 campaign, Kim Jones enlisted the help of influential illustrator Raymond Pettibon. A major presence in the California punk circuit, Pettibon is known for his political and ironic pieces as well as for designing the iconic Black Flag logo and the cover art for Sonic Youth’s career-defining 1991 album, Goo. His work continues to frequent art scenes around the country.

“We selected some of our favorite pieces of Raymond’s work which had never been seen or shown before because they were things I loved,” Jones said in a statement. In addition to providing several original illustrations as a backdrop for the image series, Pettibon also redesigned Dior’s logo on some limited-edition pieces from the collection. The contrast between the artist’s stark and provoking style and the collection’s own spin on classic menswear silhouettes result in a captivating visual series.

Take a look at some of the photos from the Dior Fall/Winter 19-20 campaign in the gallery above.

Celine Spring 2020 Marks the End of the Skinny Jean

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The Celine Spring/Summer 2020 marked the end of another fashion week in Paris, but the show was also the site of a bigger loss. For Hedi Slimane’s third show for the French label, the designer seemingly abandoned his sartorial signature: the skinny jean. The statement pant that he had premiered during his time at Dior in the early ’00s, further expanded during his stint at Saint Laurent where it became a cult item, and later ushered in his inaugural collection at Celine last September was nowhere to be found in the most recent presentation. Instead, the designer opted for a looser flared cut in assorted washes and pant styles. Rest assured, there were plenty of other Hedi-isms on the floor as the show was a tribute to ’70s counterculture. Leopard print, rock-star tailoring, and plenty of leather reminded the audience that this was indeed a Slimane show, though the designer seemed curious to explore new territory within the familiar. A lighter color palette echoed this sentiment, with sunnier hues and more relaxed-but-still-fitted tailoring showing a different side of the same rock-and-roll coin — like when punk kids from suburban high schools become hippies in college.

Watch the Celine Spring 2020 show below.

The Who Inspires Dr Martens in New Collection

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In a new limited-edition capsule collection, Dr. Martens took inspiration from British rock legends The Who. Launching on Thursday, fans will be able to grab a pair of retro-style Docs updated with the band’s signature target logo. The collection includes the classic 1461 shoe, as well as a boot, a canvas lace-up, a more formal loafer (with a tassel that emphasizes the general mod-ness of it all), and a slip-on option — it’s a tastefully subtle nod to the band that so perfectly encapsulated the groovy vibes of the ’60s. And since both the band and the footwear brand are such institutions when it comes to British counterculture, it’s shocking this didn’t happen sooner. If Dr. Martens is so interested in ’60s rock collabs, perhaps an Elton John collection could be imminent? The reviews for Rocketman are glowing and I’d love to see a disco-ball-adorned Doc.

The Dr. Martens x The Who collab launches in stores and online on Thursday.

Alexander McQueen’s F/W19 Collection Subverts British History

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Opting out of a runway presentation earlier this year, Alexander McQueen has released a lookbook for its Fall/Winter ’19 collection. An ode to several British eras of the 20th century — from ’50s Post-War to ’80s New Wave — the collection is a marriage of influences that celebrates heritage and craft.

Workwear is a core influence on the collection — a rich, pink boiler suit subverts the traditional piece with New Wave edge, while suits adorned with oversized floral prints offer a romantic take on the ordinary. Trench coats are updated in alternative formats, including bold color-blocked styles and in glossy leather fabrics that expand upon convention. Eveningwear is elevated to new heights with intricate chandelier crystal embellishments on tuxedo jackets that are as majestic in their showmanship as in their craft. This attention to detail extends to the jewelry, mainly earrings and cuffs, which provides both an elegant garnish to the more orthodox pieces and a rebellious accent to the formalwear.

Check out some of the pieces below.