Tag Archives: Paris

dior daniel arsham

Daniel Arsham Has Made More Art for Dior

American artist Daniel Arsham continues his role as Dior‘s unofficial artist-in-residence with a limited-edition collection of art pieces. Arsham has worked fairly extensively with Kim Jones and the French label, helping with the designer’s Spring 2020 collection and pink set design and contributing pieces to the recently opened men’s store in SoHo.

 

The latest collaboration is a continuation of the pastel theme that dominated the spring show. The new art pieces include a sculpture of a Dior-branded telephone, basketball, and clock that appear to be disintegrating. There’s also a sculpture of Dior’s out-of-print 1951 book Je suis couturier and letter sculptures that spell out the designer’s name — these were originally seen at the aforementioned spring show but have been minimized and could probably find a second-life as suitable bookends.

 

There’s no word on a wide release of the Dior x Daniel Arsham artwork yet but prices are available upon request.

 

 

 

 

zegna fear of god

A Closer Look at the Ermenegildo Zegna x Fear of God Collab

Word of the collaboration between Italian designer Ermenegildo Zegna and American streetwear brand Fear of God first arrived last month. It was just another announcement of another luxury brand partnering with a streetwear entity, but this one promised to be different. Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori worked closely with Jerry Lorenzo, founder of Fear of God, to write a riveting new chapter in menswear, and following the global debut in Paris earlier this week, they’re off to a promising start.

 

The looks are pretty solid. Rather than just combining logos, Sartori and Lorenzo took the time to conceptualize how best to balance their strengths so that they could deliver a cohesive and unexpected group of looks. There was a visible amount of restraint as a result, from the dark and muted color palette to the general absence of prints, which is the collection’s biggest strength. Deconstructed suits include jackets that only have one-button and no lapel whatsoever, simplifying men’s tailoring with easy-to-wear versatility. There are plenty of layer-able pieces, from turtleneck t-shirts to overcoats to structured button-down shirts in cotton and suede, which stand as strong basic essentials.  While the pieces look best together, it’s easy to imagine the separate pieces being integrated into a variety of different wardrobes.

 

“The collection speaks to our audience just as it does Jerry Lorenzo’s, but we believe it can also appeal to a new client, thanks to the mix of Zegna’s impeccable tailoring and Fear of God’s concept of laid-back luxury,” Sartori said in a statement. “We have worked with great balance, without our ego’s ever surpassing one another, to create a unique new wardrobe. A perfect synthesis of our two souls: clothes to wear at any time of the day in order to feel good. And this is only the beginning, as our conversation has just begun.”

 

The Ermenegildo Zegna x Fear of God collection will drop in September. Check out the lookbook below.

 

zegna fear of god
zegna fear of god

 

zegna fear of god
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zegna fear of god
zegna fear of god

A Recap of the Celine Fall 2020 Show

Two years since inheriting the French label, Hedi Slimane continues to make himself at home at Celine (sans accent). Yet no matter where he’s planted, whether its Dior or Saint Laurent, you know exactly what to expect during a Slimane show. Skinny jeans. Leather jackets. Retro influences that hover between the ’60s and ’80s — rarely earlier or later. Big sunglasses worn by tiny models. Etc, etc. All these things and then some were on display for Fall 2020, but there was also a softness in the collection that was refreshing.

 

The recent collection was inspired by Slimane’s mother, which lent a personal element to the presentation that he doesn’t always reveal. As a result, there was a nuance in the menswear that was more romantic than the rock and roll luxe sleaze we’ve come to know — while many past collections seem to recall rowdy nights at CBGB, this seemed to be more of a daytime affair. Some shirts were cut low revealing maximum he-vage while others were styled with loose oversized bows to balance out the slim-fit of the trousers. Suits were surprisingly practical and expertly tailored, but that’s a given. And there were enough ruffles to keep Harry Styles dressed for the rest of the year. Overall, Slimane’s clothes didn’t cover any new ground but were a reminder that the veteran designer still has a few tricks up his sleeve.

 

Celine’s Nightclubbing Scent Wants to Bring Back Disco

There is no better rush than losing yourself on a dancefloor, surrounded by warm bodies moving euphorically and ~vibing~ to the enveloping pulse of the music. Apparently Celine seems to feel the same way, with its latest fragrance — simply and effectively called Nightclubbing — campaign capturing the pure ecstasy of the dancefloor. Featuring an illuminated and animated choreographed torso (no face pic here) cavorting to the tune of a French piano ballad, the new video campaign shows the reckless abandon and bliss of nightlife. The French designer’s creative director Hedi Slimane is famously known for his rock star obsession (just see anything he did for Dior or Saint Laurent from 2000-2016), so it’s nice to see him embrace a little bit of a disco era à la Madonna’s Confessions on a Dance Floor.

 

Watch the Celine Haute Perfumerie campaign video above now.

off-white paris

Stop by Off-White’s Jewelry Pop-Up Shop in Paris

As everyone heads to Paris for the final stretch of a seemingly never-ending fashion month, Off-White is opening a pop-up shop at Rue Saint-Honoré. Hoping to further promote its accessories range (beyond the yellow belts and chain-purses that are regular guests in most street style photos), the temporary shop will carry the Milan-based label’s unisex jewelry line and eyewear range from the Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Some key pieces include chunky branded silver rings that feature the brand’s arrow motif and assertive logo and accompanying earrings. On the other hand, the sunglasses selection is charmingly retro, with oversized ski lenses accented by brightly colored frames.

 

The Off-White Paris pop-up is open now at 229 Rue Saint-Honoré. It will be open for the rest of the week until March 3.

 



 

jean paul gaultier

The Divine Spectacle of Jean Paul Gaultier’s Last Show

Less than a week after announcing his retirement, fashion’s favorite troublemaker Jean Paul Gaultier presented his final couture show. The designer, who originally launched his eponymous label in 1981, spent over four decades challenging convention and consistently expanding the limits within the industry through his over-the-top theatrical presentations. A spectacular celebration of his countless contributions, the Spring/Summer 2020 show was a glorious victory lap for a truly groundbreaking career.

 

In the awe-inspiring 174-look presentation, which featured supermodels of the moment like Karlie Kloss and the Hadid sisters alongside alternative icons like Dita von Teese and Boy George (who started the show with a rendition of Amy Winehouse’s “Back to Black”), Gaultier masterfully referenced multiple eras of his career in a way that was both nostalgic yet fresh. The cheeky pinned clothes looks which opened the show were first seen in the Spring 2003 collection. A series of nautical ensembles in the middle of the presentation were redolent of the designer’s own personal style — he frequently sported a striped shirt with a tartan kilt — and a nod to his vast fragrance empire. Who could forget the campy homoeroticism of the early JPG fragrance ads as well as those torso-shaped bottles? There was even an update to the timeless cone bra immortalized in pop culture by friend and muse Madonna. The designer clearly had an abundance of material to pull inspiration from, and yet rather than feeling limited by his own material, Gaultier was able to repurpose his work in a way that was familiar to his long-time fans while simultaneously introducing his legacy to a new generation. Just like he did with last year’s Supreme collaboration.

 

The show felt like a greatest hits collection but also served as a reminder for how far the industry has come and the ways which Gaultier pioneered some of these changes. He always made an effort to cast a diverse range of models long before the idea of representation dominated the cultural conversation and Teen Vogue articles. He designed men’s skirts and dresses before current genderfluid style vanguards like Ezra Miller and Jaden Smith were even born. And, due to the limited budgets younger couturiers are forced to deal with at the start of their careers, he was always resourceful in using discarded fabrics and unconventional materials and transforming them into sensational creations. Nowadays this would be considered a sustainability tactic. Jean Paul Gaultier’s departure is a sad loss, but the impact he left in the industry is not likely to leave the collective consciousness anytime soon. That seemed to be the overarching theme of the show: maybe gone, but never forgotten.

 

Watch the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2020 Couture show below.

 

It’s All in the Details: Backstage at Dior Men’s Fall 2020

Embellishments were the clear star of Dior Men’s Fall 2020 collection, which debuted in Paris last week. Kim Jones cited British punk vanguard Judy Blame as the chief inspiration, and the presentation was framed as a tribute to the icon who passed away in 2018. Blame was pivotal in shaping Britain’s fashion scene in the ’80s and ’90s as a major editorial stylist for The Face and i-D, and his jewelry and other accessories made out of discarded objects from keys to animal bones have been repeatedly referenced over the years. As part of its tribute to the late Blame, Dior unveiled its own interpretation of his DIY creations by bejeweling coat lapels and knit sweaters and introducing a range of dangly necklaces and ornamented cluster keychains.

 

Take a look at some of the details up close in the video above. Watch the Dior Men’s Fall 2020 show here.

paris-fashion-week-recap

The Best Looks from Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020

Virgil Abloh delivered a dreamy collection for Louis Vuitton, Dior found inspiration from one Britain’s most famous punks, and Rick Owens went full Ziggy Stardust. Closing out the first men’s fashion month of a new decade, we highlighted some of the best looks from Paris Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2020.

 

 

Louis Vuitton

louis vuitton
louis vuitton

In his strongest presentation yet, Virgil Abloh found a way to effortlessly integrate his signature street aesthetic into Louis Vuitton’s respected history with a surreal series of tailored looks updated in airy tie-dye prints and ruffle details. Watch the show now.

 

Dior

dior
dior

Finding inspiration in the work and legacy of British creative Judy Blame, Kim Jones delivered a series of post-punk newsie looks that were heavy on embellishments. Watch the show now.

 

Loewe

loewe
loewe

Loewe veered away from the tailoring and streetwear fixation of the men’s shows and opted for pure fantasy. Men in gowns, feather cuff accents, and funky prints offered a glimpse at the next wave of the menswear revolution. Watch the show now.

 

Rick Owens

rick owens
rick owens

In a refreshing return to form, the Lord of Darkness debuted an intergalactic range of pieces inspired by eternal icon David Bowie —  just imagine the Starman at a cybergoth rave and you’ll get the picture.

 

Off-White

off white
off white

Tailoring continues to be altered and manipulated for the next generation, with cut-outs, alternative fabric choices, and cinched tassel detailings indicating a new take on traditional men’s staples.

 

Dries Van Noten

dries van noten
dries van noten

Flowy studded shirts, fur belts, crushed velvet turtlenecks, and liberal uses leopard print provided a glam rock wardrobe for the Clueless generation.

 

Hermès

hermes
hermes

Subtle design details — like a bondage strap at the bottom of a pair of trousers and a hidden layer of a blazer — were the elements that took classic men’s pieces to a new and more interesting level.

 

Vetements

vetements
vetements

Each Vetements presentation has the raw aggressive energy of a basement punk show. This season was no exception, with thigh-high leather motorcycle boots being the ideal footwear for the resistance.

 

Berluti

berluti
berluti

By adding New Wave design cues — like bold colors, funky paint splatter prints, etc — to conventional menswear pieces, Berluti ironically adds new breath to the label with retro flair.

 

Homme Plisse Issey Miyake

homme plisse
homme plisse

With an accompanying musical performance, the Japanese-designer had the perfect jazzy soundtrack to complement its vivid graphic pieces.

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After 50 Years, Jean Paul Gaultier is Retiring

Well, this is a bummer. Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the most influential French couture designers ever, announced his retirement today on Twitter. His upcoming Fall/Winter 2020 show in Paris on January 22 will be his last.

 

“This show celebrating 50 years of my career will also be my last,” he said. “But rest assured Haute Couture will continue with a new concept.”

 

Gaultier has had a tremendous impact on the global fashion community and pop culture. He launched his namesake line in 1976 and was one of the first to blur the lines of luxury and streetwear — a master of trickle-up theory. His 1985 show featured a line of men’s kilts, long before the public was even talking about gender fluidity and challenging masculinity and all that. (A lifelong punk, he could often be seen sporting his own kilt.) His Spring/Summer 1990 collection is frequently cited as one of the most influential menswear shows of all time and was referenced heavily in last year’s JPG x Supreme collab. And, before I start rambling, he invented Madonna’s cone bra. Need I say more?

 

While it definitely is the end of an era, the designer announced that his brand will continue under new leadership and he has some additional projects in store. Watch the full announcement below.