A Recap of the Celine Fall 2020 Show

Two years since inheriting the French label, Hedi Slimane continues to make himself at home at Celine (sans accent). Yet no matter where he’s planted, whether its Dior or Saint Laurent, you know exactly what to expect during a Slimane show. Skinny jeans. Leather jackets. Retro influences that hover between the ’60s and ’80s — rarely earlier or later. Big sunglasses worn by tiny models. Etc, etc. All these things and then some were on display for Fall 2020, but there was also a softness in the collection that was refreshing.


The recent collection was inspired by Slimane’s mother, which lent a personal element to the presentation that he doesn’t always reveal. As a result, there was a nuance in the menswear that was more romantic than the rock and roll luxe sleaze we’ve come to know — while many past collections seem to recall rowdy nights at CBGB, this seemed to be more of a daytime affair. Some shirts were cut low revealing maximum he-vage while others were styled with loose oversized bows to balance out the slim-fit of the trousers. Suits were surprisingly practical and expertly tailored, but that’s a given. And there were enough ruffles to keep Harry Styles dressed for the rest of the year. Overall, Slimane’s clothes didn’t cover any new ground but were a reminder that the veteran designer still has a few tricks up his sleeve.