Tag Archives: Berluti

paris-fashion-week-recap

The Best Looks from Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020

Virgil Abloh delivered a dreamy collection for Louis Vuitton, Dior found inspiration from one Britain’s most famous punks, and Rick Owens went full Ziggy Stardust. Closing out the first men’s fashion month of a new decade, we highlighted some of the best looks from Paris Men’s Fashion Week Fall 2020.

 

 

Louis Vuitton

louis vuitton
louis vuitton

In his strongest presentation yet, Virgil Abloh found a way to effortlessly integrate his signature street aesthetic into Louis Vuitton’s respected history with a surreal series of tailored looks updated in airy tie-dye prints and ruffle details. Watch the show now.

 

Dior

dior
dior

Finding inspiration in the work and legacy of British creative Judy Blame, Kim Jones delivered a series of post-punk newsie looks that were heavy on embellishments. Watch the show now.

 

Loewe

loewe
loewe

Loewe veered away from the tailoring and streetwear fixation of the men’s shows and opted for pure fantasy. Men in gowns, feather cuff accents, and funky prints offered a glimpse at the next wave of the menswear revolution. Watch the show now.

 

Rick Owens

rick owens
rick owens

In a refreshing return to form, the Lord of Darkness debuted an intergalactic range of pieces inspired by eternal icon David Bowie —  just imagine the Starman at a cybergoth rave and you’ll get the picture.

 

Off-White

off white
off white

Tailoring continues to be altered and manipulated for the next generation, with cut-outs, alternative fabric choices, and cinched tassel detailings indicating a new take on traditional men’s staples.

 

Dries Van Noten

dries van noten
dries van noten

Flowy studded shirts, fur belts, crushed velvet turtlenecks, and liberal uses leopard print provided a glam rock wardrobe for the Clueless generation.

 

Hermès

hermes
hermes

Subtle design details — like a bondage strap at the bottom of a pair of trousers and a hidden layer of a blazer — were the elements that took classic men’s pieces to a new and more interesting level.

 

Vetements

vetements
vetements

Each Vetements presentation has the raw aggressive energy of a basement punk show. This season was no exception, with thigh-high leather motorcycle boots being the ideal footwear for the resistance.

 

Berluti

berluti
berluti

By adding New Wave design cues — like bold colors, funky paint splatter prints, etc — to conventional menswear pieces, Berluti ironically adds new breath to the label with retro flair.

 

Homme Plisse Issey Miyake

homme plisse
homme plisse

With an accompanying musical performance, the Japanese-designer had the perfect jazzy soundtrack to complement its vivid graphic pieces.

beach shopping essentials

The July 4th Designer Beach Edit 2019

It’s 4th of July weekend once again. An American past-time that involves coordinating multiple barbecue obligations (which is doubled when you’re in a relationship, btw) and avoiding getting ketchup and sauerkraut on your clothes in the name of freedom — while you’re here, donate to RAICES and Immigrant Families Together to help support children and families at the US Border. And for those able to hit the beach during the long holiday weekend, we’ve rounded up some of the best items for a seaside flex. Read on.

 

Berluto Eclipse Beach Large Leather Travel Bag

berluti eclipse beach bag

Honestly, you could probably fit your entire life in this bag and start over by the beach.
$5000, available on Berluti.com

 

Odyssee Valbonne Striped Swim Shorts

odyssee Valbonne striped swim short

A subtle illusion print, these trunks are an easy way to add some print to your summer style.
$222, available on MatchesFashion.com

 

Dior Fraction 5 Sunglasses

dior fraction 5 sunglasses

These lightweight and transparent blue sunglasses are a suave update to a traditional frame.
$450, available on Dior.com

 

Gucci GG-plaque Quilted Leather Slippers

gucci GG-plaque quilted leather slippers

These supple leather slides are loaded with heritage and comfort at its most opulent.
$923, available on MatchesFashion.com

 

Frescobol Carioca Trancoso Wooden Beach Bat And Ball Set

frescobol carioca Trancoso Wooden Beach Bat And Ball Set

What’s a day at the beach without some fun and games? Batter up.
$245, available on MrPorter.com

 

Versace Bloom Print Beach Towel

versace bloom print beach towel

This floral and bold branded towel is just begging to be photographed — 100 likes, easily.
$595, available on Versace.com

 

Tom Ford Bronzing Gel

tom ford bronzing gel

If you’re catching rays, you might as well bronze like a god.
$49, available on TomFord.com

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Berluti x Hublot Unveil the Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti

For the fourth release, Berluti and Hublot have once again married the integrity of both firms in truly exquisite fashion. The new Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti watch series is powered by a HUB1143 caliber and is available in King Gold or titanium, with either a rich brown or cool grey color leather strap — the material has a softly aged look that leaves it with a slight ombre appearance that only enhances its charm.

 

Additionally, each watch is packaged in a deluxe leather box and case that is inscribed with Berluti’s signature “Scritto” script, which was inspired by an 18th-century French letter that founder Olga Berluti won at an auction. The attention to detail and craft ensures that the packaging is just as remarkable as the watch within. There are even instructions on how to care for the leather inside the case. With a limited run of only 200 models being released this summer, Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti is a timepiece for the ages.

 

Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe and Berluti’s managing director Marc Nicolosi unveiled the watch in New York on April 30th with a special event at World of McIntosh in SoHo, where friends of the brand and other guests were treated to a performance by slam poet J .Isaak.

 

Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti will launch in Japan from 21 June – 20 July, and globally the next day.

 

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Berluti’s Beach Capsule Welcomes Spring

Get ready for beach weather with Berluti‘s new Beach Capsule Collection. Since joining the French label, former artistic director of Dior Homme Kris Van Assche is expanding the designer’s presence on fun seaside amenities including inflatable donuts, lounge chairs, paddles, towels, and more in festive neon hues, a departure from Van Assche’s dark design style. It’s a pop-goth collection of beach goods that looks like what a Tim Burton movie would look like in Miami.

 

The Berluti Beach Capsule collection is available online now.

 

 

 

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Body Language: Revisiting Hal Fischer’s ‘Gay Semiotics’

When Hal Fischer released Gay Semiotics in 1977, he immediately knew he had created something special. The simple image series of young gay men in San Francisco succinctly captured and decoded queer body language and sartorial cues, such as the “hanky code,” and simplified them for mass consumption. It remains a pivotal queer cultural text whose influence continues to be seen in fashion and beyond over 40 years later.

 

“A novelist friend recently mentioned to me that the ‘70s were, in fact, the ‘Age of Gay,” Fischer tells me over email. “I’ve pondered what he meant by this, and I think what he was saying is that in subsequent decades, gay aesthetics, lifestyle, etc. were appropriated by mainstream culture.”

 

Queer aesthetics—like most trends—have trickled in and out of public consciousness for decades. For their Spring/Summer 2019 shows, Vetements featured a number of gimp masks in its collection, while Berluti incorporated leather military caps and Gucci flaunted a number of studded leather jockstraps. These subversive style cues have emerged from the underground and become regular fashion staples, routinely reinterpreted and reappropriated for a broader audience.

 

Gay Semiotics continues to earn retrospective critical plaudits, but Fischer acknowledges the project’s limitations as it centers on a specific type of experience. “I think my work is about gayness from a white male perspective, and not about queerness,” he says. “What has occurred—and this is very positive—is that we’ve gone from gay to LGBTQ. As a label, ‘queerness’ encompasses so much more than the gay white male experience.”

 

While representation and intersectionality continue to dominate the larger cultural conversation, Fischer’s work remains a touchstone that will undoubtedly influence the next generation to challenge and educate. “I believe the transgressive frontier is predominately with transgender and queer artists, as well as with work that challenges traditional stereotypes, [such as] behavior, body type, and action.”

 

Feature image: Hal Fischer
Earring, from the series Gay Semiotics, 1977
Courtesy of the artist and Project Native Informant, London

Below: Hal Fischer
Handkerchiefs, from the series Gay Semiotics, 1977
Courtesy of the artist and Project Native Informant, London

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The 10 Best Menswear Looks from F/W 19

Featuring leather pants, loose romantic shirts, and a major suit comeback, we’ve compiled some of the highlights of the F/W ’19 men’s season.

 

tom ford fall 2019 rtw
Image: Alessandro Lucioni.

Tom Ford’s Leather Suit

The American designer always delivers impeccable tailoring, but this leather suit is a standout. Paired with a simple black turtleneck and large aviator glasses, it was a fresh and sleek take on the polished menswear that Ford does so well. Similar suits were also shown by Alyx and Berluti, proving that 2019  is going to be a big year for men’s leather.

 

loewe fall 2019 menswear
Image: Filippo Fior.

Loewe’s Looong Sleeves

Showing for the first time in Paris, Loewe (the Spanish label headed by J.W. Anderson) presented a series of knits with dramatically exaggerated sleeves. While oversized tops have become a staple for a few seasons now, it was nice to see a silhouette that focused on length rather that puffiness.

 

ludovic de saint sernin fall 2019

Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Femme Top

The French designer has amassed a devout Instagram following in the past year thanks to his flashy and delicate take on menswear (as well as his sensual campaigns starring IG’s finest). This slinky and shimmering halter was a season highlight that would fulfill any music video fantasy.

 

palomo spainn fall 2019
Image: Alessandro Lucioni.

Palomo Spain’s Glam Rock Moment

Moving away from athleisure and streetwear, this season was a welcome return to the suit. Palomo Spain, the young Spanish fashion collective, known for its theatrical pieces showed this rhinestone suit that is just waiting to make its on-stage debut. Looking at you, Harry Styles.

 

thom browne 2019
Image: Alessandro Lucioni.

Thom Browne’s Cinched Waist

What’s great about Thom Browne is that he can do both super utilitarian and uniform tailoring and absurd large-scale runway shows. This elongated printed suit dress with fur cuffs and a cinched waist was a glimpse at the intersection of both these strengths.

 

louis vuitton fall 2019
Image: Alessandro Lucioni.

Louis Vuitton’s Utility Vest

It seems only fitting that Louis Vuitton, which helped spearhead the great fanny pack trend with its viral Supreme collab back in 2017, lets us know that it’s moved on to utility vests as the next it-accessory. Right there with you, LV.

 

valentino fall 2019
Image: Filippo Fior.

Valentino’s Printed Overcoat

Retro menswear cues dominated this season, but this brown printed overcoat from Valentino showed us that simple things can elevate the staple pieces to a surreal place.

 

ann demeulemeester fall 2019
Image: Alessandro Lucioni.

Ann Demeulemeester’s Puffy Shirt

The Belgian designer presented an elegant range of oversized men’s blouses that would be fit on both a pirate and a romance novel cover. Billowy and rebellious, the shirts were a welcome contrast to the structured silhouettes that were frequently shown.

 

etudes fall 2019
Image: Filippo Fior.

Études’ Keith Haring Tribute

Haring’s work remains an endless source of retro-inspiration for fashion and the design world at large, but this simple yet bold jumpsuit from the French design collective was a straightforward yet refreshing way to incorporate the artist’s iconic illustrations.

 

versace fall 2019
Image: Alessandro Lucioni.

Versace’s Feather-Lined Suit

Leave it to Versace to add some campiness to the suit-overload that was made apparent this season, offering a reminder that menswear can and should be fun.

 

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A Year of Designer Musical Chairs

 

As the fashion industry continues to evolve from antiquated models, this year saw a significant number of high profile designer switch-ups. Several influential veterans of the industry stepped down from their positions in order to clear the path for the next generation of talent and to help propel these legacy labels into the future. Here are a few of some of the biggest changes we observed.

Virgil Abloh joined Louis Vuitton as Kim Jones moved to Dior

In June, designer Virgil Abloh debuted his vision as the artistic director of Louis Vuitton Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. Originally from Rockford, Illinois, Abloh is a renowned multidisciplinary expert across mediums, who introduced the world to a Wizard-of-Oz-themed LV collection that featured the yellow brick road, huge prints of Judy Garland, and many, many poppies. His personal brand, Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™ was started in 2012 and still operates from Milan.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bgxo1YmHgWj/?hl=en

 

Kim Jones joins Dior as Kris Van Ashe departs to Berluti

Only three days after Kim Jones’ friend and mentor Abloh took the runway by storm with his Louis Vuitton men’s collection, Jones presented his first capsule collection after having taken over as artistic director of Dior. He official replaced Kris Van Assche in March, who held the role for eleven years. Led stoically by the KAWS plush teddy bear that took over Instagram just a few months prior, the English designer’s Dior SS19 collection introduced a new take on the mascot with pastel colors, whilst also featuring Prince Nikolai of Denmark as one of the models.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BprBIVlFPW0/

 

Kris Van Assche joins Berluti to replace Haider Ackermann

In April of this year, Kris Van Assche took over Haider Ackermann‘s role as the artistic director of Berluti, after Ackermann announced the end of his three-season reign just a week prior. Van Assche has yet to present his first collection for Berluti, which will take place in January 2019, when he will present his new take on the French fashion house as head of shoes, leather goods, ready-to-wear and accessories collections.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhGNa_fAL3Y/?hl=en

 

Clare Waight Keller joins Givenchy as Riccardo Tisci departs to Burberry

As the rotation of the luxury artistic directors continued, Riccardo Tisci vacating the Givenchy throne meant that it was time for British stylist and fashion designer Clare Waight Keller to take the reigns. After working at Chloé for seven years as artistic director, Keller was appointed the artistic director of Givenchy. In May 2018, Keller revealed one of her first designs for the label, a wedding gown and veil for the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle for her wedding to Prince Harry.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BRs-l0tjQaZ/

 

Riccardo Tisci replaces Christopher Bailey at Burberry

Since Riccardo Tisci was appointed to replace Christopher Bailey as the chief creative officer at the English fashion house, Burberry is now officially run by two Italians (Marco Gobbetti took over as chief executive in October 2017). After having stepped down as creative director of Givenchy in 2017, Tisci debuted his new post with the Spring 2019 Burberry collection, which contained several classic Tisci-isms, including sleek tailored outerwear and peppered with Gothic imagery.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BfxkTLAH1KO/?hl=en

 

Natacha Ramsay-Levi joins Chloé as Clare Waight Keller joins Givenchy

And since Clare Waight Keller’s position was vacated at Chloé, French fashion designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi took the baton in 2017 and made her solo debut with the Spring 2018 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Her debut Chloé line featured the pairing of pastel colors with hearty leather, floral dresses with combat boots, and other juxtapositions of femininity and the reification of fusion.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BRc8oT_l3PT/

 

Hedi Slimane replaces Phoebe Philo at Celine

Though Phoebe Philo designed for Céline (now Celine) for ten years, she graciously stepped down from her tenure as creative director, and Hedi Slimane was announced as her successor. After controversially changing the logo, Slimane introduced the world to his new take on the brand at Paris Fashion Week collection in September, which featured a very 80s-oriented take on new wave and rocker chic. Since Slimane is perhaps most renowned for his work at Yves Saint Laurent, many were disappointed to observe the precipice of Slimane’s government be headed by an all-too-familiar YSL-Slimane style. But there is still time for a turnaround.

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BeNYQfygyjA/

 

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Ethan Hawke and Joe Alwyn Star in the Winter ’18 Issue

Actors Ethan Hawke and Joe Alwyn star in a special four cover issue for Winter 2018.


MOST WANTED: The most desired items you must have this season.
Photographed by Yuki Saito.

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MISBEHAVIOR: Strike the chord between order and chaos.
Photographed by Jack Grayson and styled by Lisa Jarvis.

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NEW ARRIVALS: The latest style collaborations and product launches.

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TEXTURE FUSION: Develop a second skin this winter by combining disparate textures for protection against the elements.
Photographed by A.P. Kim and styled by Terry Lu.

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DON’T LOOK BACK: Chase the new by daring to veer off-course.
Photographed by Christopher Ferguson and styled by Marc Anthony George.

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ON A CLOUD: Tumid outerwear provides protection against the frigid.
Photographed by Alex John Beck and styled by Paul Frederick.

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TEAM PLAYER: Out professional soccer player Collin Martin checks into the Baccarat Hotel to find solace off the field.
Photographed by David Urbanke and styled by Terry Lu.

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SWEET DISPOSITION: Raúl Castillo reflects on his trailblazing career and reinterpreting masculinity.
Photographed by Ryan Duffin and styled by Robert Quick.

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GO YOUR OWN WAY:
Photographed by Nicolas Valois and styled by Darryl Rodrigues.

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WORLD ALONE: A tour through life’s intricate complexities.
Photographed by Kapturing and styled by Juan Camilo Rodriguez.

issue post_12

 

IN SERVICE OF THE ART: Ethan Hawke pieces together the mechanisms of the universe.
Photographed by Thomas Goldblum and styled by Darryl Rodrigues.

issue post_13

 

IN THE HEIGHTS: Uptown style cues for when the temperature drops.
Photographed by Danilo Hess and styled by Seppe Tirabassi.

issue post_14

 

RIGHT ON TIME: Joe Alwyn is set to take the global stage.
Photographed by Kevin Sinclair and styled by Terry Lu.

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SHARP SPACES: Shanghai’s perpetual transformation inspires the latest EDITION Hotel.

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kris

Kris Van Assche Moves on to Berluti

Kris-Van-Assche-Designer
Image: Paolo Roversi.

That was quick. After announcing his departure from Dior Homme less than a month ago (Kim Jones was announced as his successor), Kris Van Assche has been named the new artistic director for Berluti.

“I have always wanted to build bridges between the savoir-faire, the heritage of a house and my clear-cut contemporary vision. Antoine Arnault spoke to me of his ambitions for Berluti and it is with great pleasure that I accept this new challenge which fits perfectly with my own will and vision,” Van Assche said in a statement. After his time at Dior Homme, where he incorporated sleek fitted tailoring and a dark sophisticarted look over 11 years, it’s interesting to see what he’ll bring to a different house.

He will present his first collection for the designer during Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January 2019.

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Haider Ackermann Leaves Berluti

berlutilead
Image: Yanni Vlamos.

The latest shakeup in the industry since Virgil Abloh was announced as new artistic director for Louis Vuitton men’s, Haider Ackermann, the artistic director of French label Berluti, is stepping down from his position. Ackermann launched his own eponymous label back in 2005, then moved on to work for Berluti for 3 seasons, bringing worldly influence into the sophisticated brand. His successor is expected to be announced shortly. Following a series of changes in the fashion sphere, almost like a game of musical chairs, whoever is appointed to replace Ackermann is anyone’s guess.

“I am immensely proud to have been able to put my creativity at the service of this House with an exceptional know-how, whilst working with a passionate team. I thank them for their commitment,” Ackermann said in a statement.

featured

Father’s Day 2017 Most Wanted

From the fashionable to the tech-savvy to every personality in-between, save time on shopping for Dad’s special day with this handy guide to the season’s most must-haves.

1. BOTTEGA VENETA TECH SNEAKER

Image: Bottega Veneta.

Bottega Veneta‘s tech sneaker is a sporty, streamlined must for those looking to put some pep in their step. With both calf leather and canvas, the shoes enter summer kicking and screaming.

Grand calf and canvas tech sneaker in nero, $690, BOTTEGA VENETA. Available at 800-845-6790.

2. HERMÈS CASHMERE TRAVEL BLANKET

Image: Hermès.

Luxury in its purest form, this cozy cashmere from Hermès breathes new life into a travel must. An ideal companion for the those jet-set, adventurous souls.

Blue cashmere travel blanket, $2,925, HERMÈS. Available at Hermès stores nationwide, 800-441-4488, and Hermes.com.

3. GUCCI GUILTY ABSOLUTE

Image: Gucci.

Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele pairs leathery masculinity with undertones of goldenwood for Gucci Guilty Absolute, a scent that inhabits a space both classic and contemporary.

Gucci Guilty Absolute, $99 for 90ml, GUCCI. Available at Macy’s and Sephora.

4. TASCHEN DAVID HOCKNEY: A BIGGER BOOK

Image: David Hockney. A Bigger Book, courtesy TASCHEN.

For the avid bookworm, check out Taschen‘s new release from David Hockney. Covering 60 years of breathtaking prints, the tome is both a testament to an artist’s gravity, as well as a nod towards Hockney’s cross-media legacy.

David Hockney. A Bigger Book, $2,500, TASCHEN. Taschen.com.

5. LOEWE TAMARIU SUNGLASSES

Image: LOEWE.

Look sharp with the Tamariu sunglasses from LOEWE. A reworked shape popularized by ’60s iconography, the oval-almost spectacles keep cool despite the month’s sunny disposition.

Tamariu sunglasses in black/palladium, $252, LOEWE. Loewe.com.

6. HUBLOT X BERLUTI CHRONOGRAPH

Image: Hublot x Berluti.

An accessory that does not relent, the Hublot x Berluti collaborative Chronograph is an all-black-everything staple that adds a serrated edge to any and every ensemble.

Classic fusion chronograph Berluti scritto all black, $16,700, HUBLOT. Hublot.com.

7. L’ESSENCE DE COURVOISIER

Image: Courvoisier.

For those who prefer to ponder over a nice glass of brandy, this cognac concoction from Courvoisier is the best go-to. A blend of rare reserves, the sippable special traces back two centuries for the finest in distilled liquor.

L’Essence de Courvoisier, $3,500, COURVOISIER COGNAC. Cognac-Expert.com.

8. ZAHA HADID DESIGN SCENTED CANDLE

Image: Zaha Hadid Design.

Why settle for scent alone when Zaha Hadid Design proves that fragrance and visuals go hand-in-hand with this geometric coffee table mainstay. Made of bone china and scented to orange flower and sandalwood, its a warm invitation that brighten and emboldens any space.

Prime scented candle in extra large, $330, ZAHA HADID DESIGN. Zaha-Hadid-Design.com.

9. MOYNAT VANITY CASE

Image: Moynat.

Moynat‘s vanity case is the sturdy option for those looking to turn-heads walking down the flight deck. With sepia canvas and glistening embellishments, tout this holdall with ultra-luxe pride.

Vanity case 30 in sepia canvas, $4,900, MOYNAT. Moynat.com.

10. STALVEY TOILETRY CASE

Image: Stalvey.

Known for its designs, Stalvey reinvents the toiletry case with this biting beauty. Glossy and sleek, it makes touting your grooming essentials a statement all its own.

Large toiletry case in black alligator, $6,000, STALVEY. Available at Barneys New York and Stalvey.com.

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Hublot Unveils Classic Fusion Chronograph Alongside Berluti

Hublot x BerlutiImage: Hublot x Berluti.

Though Parisian label Berluti has dressed men in the most iconic patinated leathers for over a century, since partnering with watchmaker Hublot in 2016 the house has boasted an entirely outfitted wardrobe, from head to toe to wrist. Revisiting their inaugural joint release, the new watch—the Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti—releases in honor of the French brand’s 120th anniversary, adding a distinctly visual drama to the accessory. Designed by Olga Berluti, a direct descendant of the brand’s founder, the timepiece retains its familiar history with leather tanned to be moisture-free. Available in both all black and scritto king gold, the chronograph touts the customary sapphire crystal construction and anti-reflective treatment, set between embossed indexes of the Hublot logo. Arriving in a bespoke box with a leather care kit to assure the Venezia straps and dial last as long as the Berluti legacy, the piece is as much a technical achievement as it is a timecapsuled marker of history.

Hublot x BerlutiImage: Hublot x Berluti.

The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti is available online now.