Tag Archives: Pitti Uomo

telfar

Telfar Will Unveil Special Project at Pitti Uomo in January

Joining Jil Sander at the upcoming menswear conference in Florence, Telfar was announced as the Special Project for the Pitti Uomo winter summit in January.

 

“Telfar Clemens is one of the most interesting figures on the contemporary scene,” Lapo Cianchi, Director of Communication & Special Events at Pitti Immagine, said in a statement. “For fifteen years, he has been promoting with tenacity an idea of inclusive and accessible fashion and business, with a project in which there is an unexpected blending of aesthetics, art, gender identity, and functionality. We are happy to offer him the opportunity to present himself to the Pitti Uomo community, and I am sure that the event in Florence will provide further meaning to a message that is already strong and vibrant.”

 

Since launching in 2005, Telfar has become a quintessential New York fashion presence. It was founded by Telfar Clemens who started the label by deconstructing vintage pieces and fabricating them into something new. The designer is renowned for its innovative collaborations — like when it redesigned the uniforms for White Castle — and won the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2017. Plus, its signature leather bag has been referred to as the “Bushwick Birkin,” which is iconic in and of itself. But its presence at one of the biggest menswear conferences in the world only further proves its cultural cache and prosperous future.

 

“We are honored to be invited to show at Pitti Uomo, where the deep sense of history and continuity sets the scene perfectly for something entirely new,” Clemens said in a statement. Looking forward to January!

nick wooster paul shark

Nick Wooster has Designed a Collection with Paul & Shark

At this point, Nick Wooster is a New York institution. The fashion consultant earned his stripes at major retailers including Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, and Neiman Marcus before becoming a style icon in his own right and amassing almost a million Instagram followers. His sophisticated dapper-meets-street look (like Thom Browne listening to a Kanye West album) and exemplary grooming — he famously gets his hair cut every two weeks — is like catnip to street style photographers. Now he’s lending his distinguished taste to Paul & Shark on an extensive collection.

 

The second collaboration between the two made its debut at Pitti Uomo in Florence and perfectly fuses Wooster’s sartorial sensibility with the Italian label’s nautical flare. It’s not afraid of color — a hot pink sweater replete with boatneck button detail is an immediate standout — or prints and balances a black and white palette with contrasting patterns. Checkered prints stand out on a pair of cropped trousers and as a line detail on a brown peacoat. Sweatshirts are remixed with split-sided graphic prints, and a number of jackets are enhanced with glossy reflective hoods.

 

“I am honored to continue my collaboration with PAUL & SHARK. Partnering with brands that have a strong history and iconography are the most interesting and challenging,” Wooster said in a statement. “This collection reflects my view of a seasonal wardrobe using the highlights of PAUL & SHARK’s past and our first collaboration as a starting point.”

 

 

 

hugopitti

Hugo Boss to Present HUGO Spring/Summer 2018 at Pitti Immagine Uomo

HUGO x Pitti UomoImage: HUGO BOSS.

Joining a rapidly swelling lineup of fashion heavy-hitters—J.W.Anderson and Virgil Abloh, to namedrop a few—Hugo Boss‘ edgier offshoot HUGO will debut its Spring/Summer 2018 collection at Pitti Immagine Uomo 92 in Florence. Combining men’s and womenswear into one hotly anticipated showcase, the partnership follows the German brand’s recent reinvigoration of its trendy heading through heightened market transparency and social media outreach. From its latest Digital Oasis campaign, a sun-streaked portrayal of technology’s progression, to its current season’s embrace of graphic prints and slim silhouettes, HUGO’s June 13, 2017 runway will continue the brand’s pivot towards a youthful, more plugged in demographic.

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Paul Smith, Cottweiler, Tim Coppens, and More at Pitti Uomo 91

PI_NEWS_EVENTI_UOMO_PS_CARANImage: Pitti Immagine Uomo.

Following last season’s designer-spectacular, super menswear trade show Pitti Immagine Uomo adds a line-up of noteworthy names to its exhibition list for the 91st edition this January 2017. Stepping farther toward “the search for new formats that combine stylistic research, communication, and authenticity for the market,” says Lapo Cianchi, the event’s director of communications, the forthcoming season stars British icon Paul Smith, who will view a special fashion installation at the fair. Joining him, contemporary Belgian via NYC designer Tim Coppens will stage a runway event, debuting his upcoming Autumn/Winter 2017 menswear collection, while cult-favorites Golden Goose Deluxe Brand and Cottweiler will offer special projects, the later a special project with Reebok.

Pitti Immagine Uomo 91 will take place in Florence from January 10-13, 2017.

Pitti

From Our View – Pitti Uomo 90

The front row in the fast lane.

You’ve gone backstage, and followed all our favorite looks on Instagram. Show tunes? Oh right, check, you did that. But just in case anything might have slipped through the cracks, here we recap our favorite snaps from Pitti Uomo 90.

Raf Simons

Oversized graphic button-downs anchored Raf Simon’s Spring/Summer 17 collection, which featuring the work of the late iconic photographer Robert Mapplethorpe.

Gosha Rubchinsky

Cool kid favorite Gosha Rubchinsky offers a new installment in his ever-developing image of the post-Soviet youth, with retro-tinged sportswear topped off by collaborative Fila socks and sneakers, gold chains, and statement shades.

Lucio Vanotti

Lucio Vanotti brings understated chicness in his SS17 collection, with oversized silhouettes, minimal pinstripes, and gingham in muted colors.

Visvim

Giving the sailor and the cowboy modern updates, Visvim combines nautical uniforms and wide-brimmed hats with Japanese flair and a ready-to-wear ease.

Fausto Puglisi

In his first ever menswear collection, Fausto Puglisi presents a rugged interpretation of a Greek myth, covering his men in studs, striking iconography, and bold prints.

Follow ESSENTIAL HOMME on Instagram at @EssentialHomme.
RafTN

Raf Simons to Return to Pitti Uomo

unnamed (22)Image: Willy Vanderperre, courtsey of Raf Simons.

Pitti Immagine Uomo 90 looks to be the most anticipated iteration yet, revealing designer Raf Simons as another special guest at the the biannual menswear event. Celebrating the legendary force, “Florence Calling: Raf Simons” will debut the designer’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection, in addition to a special project developed exclusively for Pitti. “Florence holds a special place in my heart,” said Simons in a statement “… Over the years, I have regularly come back to show my work or to collaborate on ventures that closely mirrored my thoughts about it.” The news follows the announcement of Gosha Rubchinskiy as this season’s guest designer, with special appearances by Hiroki Nakamura of Visvim, Fausto Puglisi, and Lucio Vanotti.

PittiTN

Gosha Rubchinskiy, Visvim, and More to be Spotlighted at Pitti Uomo 90

Image: Pitti Immagine Uomo.

As the 90th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo approaches, the historic menswear event announces Gosha Rubchinskiy as its guest designer for the Spring/Summer 2017 season. Recently, the subversive Russian voice has become a streetwear mainstay; his eponymous brand gaining global editorial traction with its post-Soviet aesthetic eye and Comme des Garçons retail support. In addition to Rubchinskiy, the three-day series will unveil a designer project by Hiroki Nakamura’s Visvim, special event with Sicilian celebrity designer Fausto Puglisi, and introduction to Lucio Vanotti via Pitti’s emerging program, Pitti Italics. The appointments signal the changing of gears for the long-lasting Italian show, whose traditional roots a Firenze—after previous season partnerships with Moschino, Hood by Air, and Juun.J—continue to find new footing.

HBATN

Hood by Air’s HBA Journal: Pitti Uomo

hba1_finalImage: Hood by Air.

Coinciding with Hood by Air‘s recent presentation at Pitti Uomo 87, the sportswear brand has released a series of photographs titled HBA Journal: Pitti Uomo, which visualize the brand’s evolution in both realms of fashion and culture. Lensed by Colin Dodgson with art director Christopher Simmonds and stylist Carlos Nazario, the road trip-esque series stars twins Sam and Joe O’Neil exploring rural England in archival Hood by Air. The narrative is also paired with a studio project that sees HBA’s Pitti Collection in an intimate study of motion.

hba2_finalImage: Hood by Air.

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As Seen on the Streets: Pitti Uomo 86

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Image photographed by Melodie Jeng (The NYC Streets).

A meeting of menswear minds, Pitti Uomo is less of a trade show and more of a Florentine focal point between classic Italian suiting and young, European innovation. But for every half windsor that was fastened inside the fair, so many more were spreading out onto the stoned alla moda streets. We sent photographer Melodie Jeng to document how the men of Florence dress for the stradas Pitti Uomo 86 style.


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Image photographed by Melodie Jeng (The NYC Streets).


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Image photographed by Melodie Jeng (The NYC Streets).

Giorgio Armani Fall 2013 Menswear runway milan fashion week pitti uomo male models

Favorite Five: Giorgio Armani Fall 2013 Menswear

Giorgio Armani Fall 2013 Menswear runway milan fashion week pitti uomo male models

A strong and precise image. No flirtatious provocations that often amount to little more than sly trickery. Clean and essential styling portrays a virile man, defined by broad silhouetted outerwear, and trousers with a clean cut. Surfaces are opaque and warm, and underline the precious nature of the collection. Research into craftsmanship is key and is evident in the fabric treatments and tailoring of the pieces. It is this quality of craftsmanship that brings together the contrasting aesthetics of sportswear and classic menswear. Thus, neoprene envelops precious materials such as velvet and suede – a contemporary combination that makes one re-think definitions of techno and sartorial. Sportswear enters a new phase without renouncing to high-performance technical fabrics and treatments; luxury is expressed through the focus on precious fabrics and the practicality of the clothing. Leather is treated using traditional methods practiced at great Italian tanneries where hand dyeing is done with sponges and brushes. The refined knitwear is lightweight. There are complex pieces created by the interweaving of cashmere and mohair in a sensual geometrical game of colors. The color palette is drawn from the established Armani code, and is composed of tried and trusted hues, such as warm grays and shades of brown (including cocoa and colors referencing precious woods), which fuse with intense tones such as Wenge, before passing to absolute black. Ruby red is a key color for this season. Aristocratic and precious, it runs through the collection following an elegant narrative path, standing out in the male wardrobe and reaching the pinnacle of an original, rich and magical chromatic pyramid.

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    The jacket's lapels are subtle and inconspicuously flare outwards towards the bottom. They play unexpectedly well over the more rigid martial buttons beneath.
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    Sporty and cultured— The combo dark blue tonal and unassuming curves in the jacket make this a sturdy show of elegance.
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    Depending on how you look, the jacket's pattern is both deeply textured and supine. With the abstract angular shapes on the sweater. you've got a decidedly virile take on contrasting patterns.
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    Similar idea to the last look, though a hair more daring with the blubbery sneakers.
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    Analyst, engineer, pilot, architect…Tron. Sharp contrasts (too)—it's all there.
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Related: Emporio Armani and Swims

 

etro fall 2013 menswear runway pitti uomo milan gengis khan mandala neo primitivist

Favorite Five: Etro Fall 2013 Menswear

etro fall 2013 menswear runway pitti uomo milan gengis khan mandala neo primitivist

“The wheel of creativity: everything revolves and transforms, revealing the consequence of the previous step. The sounds and signs of the world are compressed, the extremes draw near to each other, intermingling. The Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, barbarous and furious, is the result of an alchemical process through which GengisKean tells the intimate feeling that lies at the base of our strictest contemporaneity: we’re living an important time of transition, aware of belonging to history. Contradictory elements and techniques ally to construct a world of primordial density, of mythological and legendary evocations that become weightless and fluid. A summary of sensations, an existential Mandala. The most traditional of loren ends up resembling a kimono, the soft materials and gauze give a roundness and softness that si shared by cultures as far apart so those of the Himalayas and Ireland. The broad lapels of coats – to be inhabited – are rounded, egg, shaped, and the trousers are slim for fast running, to keep up with the sense of impermanence that gives us stability. The origin: synthesis, sedimentation, and synchronicity that the dandy and the prince have in common with the Sherpa, which includes ease and sophistication, uniqueness together with universality.

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    Neo-primitivist with braiding and jersey knits that could pass as corduroy.
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    Yes, there's a lot going on here (furs, hides, horse images, tiger print, quilted pants)—yet, it does't seem as if it's trying all that hard...even though it should.

  • YVL_4414.450x675This look seems to flout the some old myth we've heard that guys shouldn't wear dangling jewelry over brightly colored turtlenecks. Well done! 

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    Bright, sunshiny jacquard. Say good morning to the night.
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    A most abstract Mandala as realized by an eccentric dinner turn late night party jacket.
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Related: Trend Report