The Met Gala — aka the Super Bowl of Fashion — is always an opportune moment to flex fashion literacy. The night’s theme was Camp: Notes on Fashion, and with such a niche and subjective concept, it’s clear that some guests did their homework more than others. We highlight some of the night’s biggest Camp moments below.
Dior and Louis Vuitton star on 3 special covers for Spring 2019. Dior covers shot by Hunter & Gatti and styled by Steven Doan. Louis Vuitton cover shot by Byron Mollinedo and styled by Nicholas Galleti.
MISBHV: The design duo tells us how they weave their Polish heritage into their work.
Landing on the scene with a hyper-surreal perspective, Thierry Mugler dominated the fashion world in the late 20th century with his high-production showmanship and futuristic garments. By fusing science fiction and film noir visuals into razor-sharp silhouettes that celebrated femininity, the French label was able to simultaneously capture the zeitgeist and propel it to new heights, turning runway shows into opulent spectacles and models into superwomen.
The reclusive designer, who stepped down from his eponymous brand in 2002 before it shuttered completely shortly after, remains an instrumental figure in contemporary fashion. Renowned for sculpting entire worlds that extended far beyond the runway and amassing a vast body of work that fortified his singular vision, Mugler’s influence remains as idiosyncratic as ever and continues to rouse the public. Almost two decades after exiting the limelight, the designer is being honored with the first exhibition dedicated to his work, Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, which opens at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts this weekend.
When presented with the idea to commission an exhibition, Mugler himself chose curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot to make it a reality. Loriot has emerged as a young, yet seasoned veteran in sartorial show curation—his first exhibition was the widely successful Jean-Paul Gaultier retrospective that toured the world from 2011 to 2016.
“I was quite surprised and flattered when he [Mugler] asked because I know that many museums approached him for the chance to do an exhibition about his work,” Loriot says. “I guess it was a match with the museum director here [Nathalie Bondil] because we do more installations, rather than general retrospectives.”
The two worked closely together to design an immersive experience poised to re-introduce the genius of Mugler’s mind to the masses. (After all, the designer was the first to host a show that was open to the public—the Fall/Winter 1984 show in Paris featured over 350 looks and drew in an audience of over 6,000.) “We make installations that are very alive,” Loriot assures. “We are storytellers. That’s what the exhibition will be about—it’s going to be about fashion and the obsession with Mugler through the years with a thematic approach.”
Comprised of over 150 full couture looks (many on display for the first time), the exhibition encompasses Mugler’s multidisciplinary work as a full auteur, including photographs, original illustrations, and rare video footage from his extensive archives, which remain hidden and carefully preserved in secret warehouses throughout France.
“It’s quite impressive to see the level of perfection that was achieved in these pieces, and also the amount of work and number of hours he spent on every piece,” Loriot says, regarding his time spent combing through the archives and what viewers should expect. “Many people see the pieces in the magazines and on TV, but to see them up close is really impressive.” There’s also some irony that Mugler, whose work was frequently acclaimed for its futuristic appeal, had not preserved any of his archives digitally. “[Mugler] stopped doing fashion in 2002, when pretty much all the photographers went digital, so none of the images were digitized from the archives.”
Despite a seemingly never-ending public demand for all things nostalgic, Loriot is adamant that the exhibition is very much a reflection of today. “I don’t think this is something nostalgic, to be honest. I think this is more like a new work altogether,” he says. Additionally, a section of the exhibit includes new looks crafted exclusively for the museum.
He also mentions the importance of re-contextualizing Mugler’s work for modern consumption. Even at his career peak, his pieces were not without scrutiny—critics frequently deemed his clothes sexist and harmful for their exaggerated shapes and hypersexual tone.
“I think it’s always interesting to put things in context. We live in a #MeToo era,” he says, showing how hindsight has affected interpretation to carry Mugler’s work in higher regard. In his universe, women were autonomous supervixens who existed unburdened by systemic oppression. And it’s likely this interpretation that has continued to attract some of the biggest stars—like Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, and Cardi B—today.
Since parting ways with his label, Mugler (who’s reverted to using his birth name, Manfred) has turned his focus to extreme bodybuilding, yet his larger-than-life presence still resonates within the industry. His brand remains a fragrance juggernaut, consistently ranking among best-selling in the world since the first perfume launched in 1992. And the label remains a Paris Fashion Week fixture since its resurrection in 2010 under the direction of stylist and art director Nicola Formichetti. (It’s currently overseen by Casey Cadwallader.) But it’s this exhibition that promises to remind the public why a designer like Mugler is so necessary—harnessing a distinct utopian vision, he shattered sartorial convention and expanded the notion of what fashion could be.
“He was really using fashion as a medium; as an artist, and for me that’s what’s important,” Loriot says. “He revolutionized the system.”
This article is featured in the Spring 2019 issue of Essential Homme.
Hedi Slimane to Show at Paris Fashion Week Men’s for Fall ’19
Image: Indigital.
After a hotly anticipated and polarizing Celine debut in September, Hedi Slimane will show at Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Taking place later this month, it marks the French label’s first ever official menswear show (though Slimane included a series of menswear looks in his Spring ’19 show — skinny suits, rocker influences, you know the deal) and will serve as an opportunity for the designer to prove he’s more than just a one trick pony. Fingers crossed.
Who will Replace Raf Simons at Calvin Klein?
Image: The Independent.
Raf Simons announced his departure from Calvin Klein at the tail-end of 2018, leaving us with yet another cliffhanger of who will be his successor. Simons was the chief creative officer for the American label for a little under two years and his collections were distinct for their strong and literal inspirations from film and television (his most recent collection featured predominant themes from Jaws, including graphic prints and neoprene diving suits). It would have been nice to see him continue to grow at the house, but so it goes. And there’s still no word on who will replace him yet so we’ve got that to look forward to.
Moschino Takes its Show to Rome
Image: David Maestr. Feature image: Arnaud Lafeuillade.
On January 8th (that’s next week if you can believe it), Moschino will show in Rome as part of Men’s Fashion Week. The Italian designer, which has previously shown in Milan and London, opted for the city’s Cinecittà Studios for its latest presentation as the collection is rumored to be inspired by director Federico Fellini, who filmed some of his greatest work there. Additionally, British designer J.W. Anderson will leave its home of London to present its FW19 collection in Paris later this month.
The First Ever Mugler Exhibition to Open in Montreal
Image: Mugler.
Thierry Mugler, the French designer who earned international acclaim for his spectacular runway shows and futuristic looks in the latter half of the 20th century, will get his first exhibition at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts later this spring. Curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot (who was also responsible for the Jean-Paul Gaultier retrospective that traveled the world a few years ago), it marks the first time the designer’s work will be celebrated in its own show. Set to open on March 3rd, it’s likely that the show will embark on its own world tour in the fall.
Margiela Gets his Own Documentary
Image: Marina Faust.
The ever mysterious Martin Margiela will be the focus on an upcoming documentary chronicling his affluential career. Titled Without Compromise, it’s billed as the first documentary that the reclusive designer himself has agreed to participate in, which is pretty major for a man who’s never released a proper picture of himself. Produced by Dogwoof, who also released the Vivienne Westwood documentary last year, the film is scheduled to premiere at Cannes.
26 years after launching its first fragrance, French fashion designer Mugler is re-releasing the innovative scent. Updated for the 2018 market, the Mugler Cologne fragrances will be genderless. A set of 5 key scents (each is packaged in a different bottle that corresponds to the colors of a rainbow), the collection invites wearers to mix and match and layer scents upon each other to create a bouquet of smells that will no doubt make you the most popular person in any elevator. Additionally, the designer released a lively animated clip to accompany the announcement — the comic-book-superhero-He-Man theme is very on brand, reminding us why Mugler remains one of the most innovative and daring fashion influences in recent memory.
Mugler Cologne will be available at Nordstrom stores and online starting in September and out worldwide in early 2019, ahead of Mugler’s upcoming retrospective exhibition in Montreal.
Rowdy out-of-towners, crushed beer cans/broken glass bottle shards filling the streets, and more rancid green-themed products than you’ve ever seen… that’s right, it’s Saint Patrick’s Day. But just because it’s the worst 24-hours in the moral realm that doesn’t mean you have to dress like it. Here are eight runway outfits that have embraced green to help you survive the crazy, mean cousin of all of the national holidays. Good luck and we’ll see you on the other side.
RAF SIMONS AW14: If you thought you had your fill of Raf Simons after his most recent Fred Perry collab release, you're wrong. Dead wrong. For Autumn/Winter 2014, our main man teamed up with LA artist Sterling Ruby on a rebellious collection of organized chaos, but who has time to wait that long? This patchwork sweater might have its share of similarities to an ikea rug, but what else would you want to pass out in after a heavy day of Irish ballads and pub crawls?
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SS13: Although Westwood's Monet-inspired show for last Spring was styled with earth-made crowns wrapped delicately across her models' foreheads, it was this toned down botanist meets English-country-side-vacationer that has us oozing for grass stains, just be careful with the Guinness.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AW12 : If you must do camo, then try it with a side of camp! The only issue with this chunky cake of couture might be trying to de-layer when you have to urinate for the 120th time of the day. What a great holiday!
ALAN TAYLOR AW14: Here's a tip, avoid any St. Patty's pinches for not wearing green, and keep it simple with a subtle (but not really) accessory like these Alan Taylor metallic forest green gloves. They're as easy to slip on as they are to hurriedly rip off in embarrassment—you know, for when after the beer runs out.
LANVIN SS14: Okay maybe it's cheating, but this teal—technically mixed green and and light blue—leather jacket over jogging-styled trousers is a great way to keep the holiday alive when you're stuck in the office and not at the parade today (like a person in the normal world).
HAIDER ACKERMANN SS14: An imaginative take on a traditional Irish vest, you would definitely wear this to the pub...if the pub was the site of a gay Hugh Hefner dress up competition. Huzzah!
MUGLER AW13: If you're worried you might not get the public reaction that is usually associated with St. Patrick's Day—people staring, little children confused—then this sci-fi, neon and black body suit will certainly do the trick. And hey, you can do a few rounds of Isabella Rossellini-porno after!
JEREMY SCOTT SS12: Because if you start the day out with your genitals exposed then it will certainly spare you the confusion of looking for your pants the morning after. Also, we all know the only regional costume sexier than that of a leprechaun's—other than everything else in the history of clothes—is a cowboy's.
“In a triangulation of concept, colour and vision, the MUGLER men’s wear collection for Autumn Winter 2013-14 aligns creative director Nicola Formichetti’s neo-urban panache and the electric futurism of designer Romain Kremer with a respect for the 40-year heritage of Thierry Mugler. The global collision of Western tradition, Asian pop culture and technology provides a springboard for a uniform fusing street and ceremony. The avatars of our virtual lives inject the collection with a sense of hyperrealism – ‘the ability to become somebody else in a digital world,’ explains Formichetti…For the past three seasons, MUGLER men’s wear shows have featured an exclusive track from an new artist, and for Autumn Winter 2013-14 Nicola Formichetti introduces “I am MUGLER” by G Dragon from the K-Pop sensation BIGBANG빅뱅. ”
OK…so four really, but really color matters…
Each of the collection's three signature fluorescent colors flash beneath a tailored suit and military overcoat.
Aerodynamic and architectural. Love.
We surrender.
Yes, the same look as earlier but with brighter colors. What can we say? This is love.
Sandy’s kinda got us consumed (literally, by water in Manhattan) but we had this post all ready to go before the Atlantic Ocean decided to shack up in our town. So, not to diminish all of the crazy stuff that’s going on around here but…well, shit’s also about to get kinda worse. As in, on November 4th at 2am, we loose an hour and it starts to get dark at like 4 in the afternoon. Fun and wet and cold and no power. But, this is Essential Homme. We’re of course thinking the fashion angle. So…how to deal with so much night time (and for us northeasterners, no sun and hurricane damage)? We say pick things up with a little sheen. When the world gives you hurricanes and day light savings time, give it some shine. Think: Black patent sleeve bomber jacket. Think: Mirrored sneakers. Think: Intricate details of piping, banding, and paneling. Come the dark cold months, reflect on the outside with some of the best in designer fashion, and while you’re at it, maybe try some reflecting of the inward kind? See what we mean after the jump. (Also, happy Halloween!)
This thick Italian leather is a luxe cover-up for the waist, powerfully accented with a solid brass buckle.
2) Adidas Originals by O.C.
Black Reflective Anorak Hoodie; $265 at ssense.com
A hoodie shouldn’t stop with reflective silver banding throughout.No, it should include orange, yellow, olive, and blue at the chest and back. We say, "Yes, please."
3) Alberto Moretti Arfango
Color Washed Tie Driver; $475 (Preorder) at barneys.com
Because daylight savings time happens warm places too.
Sure, these modern and affordable classics'll reflect light, but since your purchase also goes to helping those in need, your heart'll also shine though.
Photographs by Renie Saliba
Styling by Katie Burnett
Stylist Assistant: Virginia Vernier, Tene Macklin, Candice Nelson
Set Designer: Roy Delgado
Hair: Aleksandra Sasha Nesterchuk
Make-Up: Colleen Runne
Model: Malthe Lund Madsen at VNY, Marcel Castenmiller at DNA.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SS13: Although Westwood's 
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AW12 : If you must do camo, then try it with a side of camp! The only issue with this chunky cake of couture might be trying to de-layer when you have to urinate for the 120th time of the day. What a great holiday! 
ALAN TAYLOR AW14: Here's a tip, avoid any St. Patty's pinches for not wearing green, and keep it simple with a subtle (but not really) accessory like these Alan Taylor metallic forest green gloves. They're as easy to slip on as they are to hurriedly rip off in embarrassment—you know, for when after the beer runs out.
LANVIN SS14: Okay maybe it's cheating, but this teal—technically mixed green and and light blue—leather jacket over jogging-styled trousers is a great way to keep the holiday alive when you're stuck in the office and not at the parade today (like a person in the normal world). 
HAIDER ACKERMANN SS14: An imaginative take on a traditional Irish vest, you would definitely wear this to the pub...if the pub was the site of a gay Hugh Hefner dress up competition. Huzzah! 
MUGLER AW13: If you're worried you might not get the public reaction that is usually associated with St. Patrick's Day—people staring, little children confused—then this sci-fi, neon and black body suit will certainly do the trick. And hey, you can do a few rounds of 
JEREMY SCOTT SS12: Because if you start the day out with your genitals exposed then it will certainly spare you the confusion of looking for your pants the morning after. Also, we all know the only regional costume sexier than that of a leprechaun's—other than everything else in the history of clothes—is a cowboy's. 
