As spring campaigns from the biggest brands continue to trickle in, Givenchy has enlisted major icons Marc Jacobs and Charlotte Rampling to star in theirs. Dressed in key looks from the Spring/Summer 2020 collection, the two elicit memories of the ’90s in New York City and Paris when individual style was at its peak and fashion at its most liberating.
Photographed by Craig McDean, the campaign is a series of black-and-white portraits to celebrate the new faces of the brand. Each shot portrays an innate sense of wit and elegance. An accompanying video reveals a bit more about both individuals, their respective careers, and their personal style. The brand’s accessories such as bags and shoes take center stage while the stars are practicing an acting lesson. “Show me nuance, show me a bittersweet long lost love affair,” says Rampling, as they act out an acting lesson. The dramatic Jacobs eventually steals the show with his own histrionics. Definitely the campaign to watch ahead of the Oscars.
A decorated industry veteran, John Targon has seen it all. The cheeky designer has earned his stripes working for some of the biggest names in the business, including Burberry, Celine, and Marc Jacobs. In 2013, he co-founded Baja East, a trendy label that was shortlisted for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2016. After stepping down from the brand, he’s doing it all again. “Because I love torture,” he laughs.
His latest project, Fall Risk, launched earlier this year. It’s a contemporary line that mixes retro styles with novelty flair, born in response to a fashion industry of excess whose aim is to “to make 90 looks and only sell five.”
At the core of the brand is knitwear. “I just really wanna be the king of knitwear,” he says from his office. The Fall Risk headquarters is a compact yet bright studio on the Lower East Side. There’s a tangible air of eagerness and buzzy energy that permeates throughout the space—it’s like being inside a teen magazine from the ‘90s.
Fall Risk Volume 4
“My aesthetic is like ‘Am I at my grandma’s house?’ But the grandma you like,” he says. “You can’t tell if its ‘70s, ‘80s, or ‘90s, but it’s overall pretty fun and digestible.”
Targon’s pieces are riddled with his witty charm and personality. They are simple and bold, loud and clear, like an ‘80s pop synth riff. It’s a refreshing take on knitwear that usurps convention and distinguishes the brand from the rest of the industry noise.
Further distancing itself from the frenzy, Fall Risk doesn’t present traditional fashion shows or even align itself with the fashion calendar. Instead, it releases volumes—four so far. Each was unveiled on the internet through delightfully retro glossy lookbooks and released directly to the consumer on a rolling basis. Additionally, there are sustainable implications as a result of this limited-quantity production model.
“I play on this twist of nostalgia and futurism,” he confirms, citing his desire to pull elements and influences from his childhood into uncomplicated staple pieces that are readily available. There’s a definite contrast between the label’s online presence versus its offline one.
Opening a direct channel of communication between creator and customer might seem a bit primitive, but in a modern context, it’s kind of revolutionary. While Instagram seems to carry the weight of the brand, customers are instructed to call (not text) a number to purchase a piece from the collection. If they’re lucky, they might get the chance to speak to Targon himself. He cites the conversation with the customer and the subsequent feedback they offer wholly invaluable. When this service launched, the company received 400 calls in three days.
Ironically enough, nostalgia has become more pervasive and accessible thanks to new technology—young people can now go on Tumblr to look up pictures for ‘70s fashion inspiration. This juxtaposition shows that, despite its vintage backbone, Fall Risk is highly tuned into the current.
The label’s cool-factor is further accentuated with savvy collaborations with rising industry figures. Over the summer, Fall Risk worked with Depop—the U.K.-based online shopping app favored by teens—on a temporary shop in downtown Manhattan. Bypassing the illusion of community that seems to be a rising industry standard, the initiative provided an actual IRL experience for fans of the brand to mingle and familiarize themselves with the clothes. Selling has never been a keystone for the label. “I don’t think that it’s sexy to build a brand today if the only entrance is to buy,” he says.
“The whole premise of Fall Risk is to figure it out,” he explains. After years in the business, it’s refreshing that a designer as seasoned as Targon is still finding ways to challenge himself and maximize his potential, bridging the past with the future. “For me, it’s an exciting time.”
In order to make this season go off without a Holiday hitch, we’ve compiled a list of seasonal must-haves and envying items to fit every relative, friend, and pesky obligatory guilt-gift on your holiday shopping list. No need to spend hours traipsing about the store, just peruse this handy guide so you can get back to what really matters, indulging in the gifts you’ve already bought for yourself.
1. Beoplay A1, B&O PLAY
Image: B&O PLAY.
Four colors and 360 sound, this pocket-sized speaker from B&O PLAY can turn any playlist into an instant banger.
No longer under wraps, textures of various prints and fine fabrics congregate in the crisp daytime, granting handsomely tailored layers for the season.
Photographed by Zeb Daemen | Styled by Alex Van Der Steen
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Models: Otto at New Madison and Felix at Ulla. Hair by Nina Olivet. Photo Assistant: Koen Vernimmen. Fashion Assistant: Veronica Sarah Neuhard
Inaugurating the magazine’s new tradition of celebrating menswear masterminds on its last issue of the year, Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2 star on Essential Homme‘s cover for December 2014/January 2015, closing Fall/Winter off and leaping into the excitement of next season with full force.
This season’s MOST WANTED products (pg. 21) range from Bottega Veneta’s subtle mist washed glimmer briefcase to Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci’s bowling-bag sized leather release, while photographer David Sessions and stylist Justin Hamilton reinterpret ’70s punk with Iggy Pop and Roger Daltry-inspired looks using contemporary brands such as TOPMAN Design, Christopher Shannon, and Calvin Klein Collection in A MOMENT LIKE THIS (pg. 36).
Image: Essential Homme.
NEW ARRIVALS (pg. 48) include a second collection from Louis Vuitton’s tailored line, Formal, The Thompson Hotel’s just-opened Miami outpost, and a poetic, Jean Cocteau-inspired collection from Façonnable, whereas SCENE is a battle between east and west over which coast can throw a party the best, featuring NYC’s hottest shindigs and LA’s most posh outings from the fall calendar.
Image: Salvatore Ferragamo.
Image: Dior.
Selected features include:
STYLE (pg. 56): GROWING UP GRAY / Gregory Peck’s famously tailored silver screen ensemble, the gray flannel suit, reacts to winter, sharper, lighter, and warmer than ever before in reincarnations by Marc Jacobs, ETRO, Ralph Lauren Black Label, and more.
Image: Essential Homme.
A MAN IS A MAN (pg. 70): Sophisticated attire trumpets nonchalant strength in a new wave of menswear from Christopher Kane, Brunello Cucinelli, and Gucci not quite as traditional, yet still cooly tailored.
Image: Essential Homme.
CONVERSATIONS (pg. 84): Simon Spurr / The creative director of Kent and Curwen explains how a self-proclaimed fashion ostrich redefines a heritage brand.
SURVIVAL OF THE FIT (pg. 90): The science behind Natural Selection’s first full collection.
FULL SPECTRUM (pg. 93): As an unwavering beam of light dispenses from a band of colors through a prism, designer Kris Van Assche pursues an “ideal wardrobe” by interpreting decades of musical stimuli—from New Order to new beat—for Dior Homme’s colorfully elegant Spring 2015.
Image: Essential Homme.
COMING TO AMERICA (pg. 121): Approaching Dsquared2’s 20th anniversary, founders Dean and Dan Caten reflect on the last two decades and take aim at the U.S. for round II.
HERE I STAND (pg. 128): Immobile in a peaceful accord, spring’s most awaited surprises from Hermès, Kenzo, and Valentino appear just arm-lengths ahead.
GROOMING (pg. 142): Clean Start / After a year of cultivating beards and searching for a rugged aesthetic, it’s time to reassert the sharp runway look.
SHARP SPACES (pg. 144): Hola, Paradise! / Nizuc Resort and Spa fashions an unexpectedly lush paradise.
Image: Nizuc Resort and Spa.
The December 2014/January 2015 issue of Essential Homme magazine is available on national and international newsstands and online starting today.
About Essential Homme magazine: Essential Homme is a bi-monthly print publication and website that act as the style source for affluent, successful, and fashion-forward readers that are passionate about high-end men’s fashion and its reflective lifestyle. Essential Homme has been published since 2010 and past cover stars range from Daniel Radcliffe, Sullivan Stapleton, Kellan Lutz, Ian Somerhalder, Colton Haynes, and Sebastian Sauve. From bold editorial spreads showcasing the latest in style trends, to features on fashion industry insiders and the most stylish men in entertainment, an eye to the nightlife scene, and an exploration of fashion’s most exciting new gadgets and spaces, Essential Homme is a leading authority for the style and design enthusiast.–
This winter leave the leather jacket alone for warmer weather, and opt instead for a long woolen coat: yes, the kind you’ve seen in old movies that effortlessly exudes distinguished maturity. Forget the professor and grandpa stereotypes, because with designers from Marc Jacobs to Haider Ackermann reinterpreting the classic garment for their Fall/Winter 2014 collections, it’s time to embrace the warmth of this menswear staple.
Haider AckermannImage: Style.com.
Overcoat (left) vs. topcoat (right)Image: Wikipedia.
For centuries, long coats have served as the outermost layer in cold weather, often possessing an air of formality above their rigid layers. Traditionally worn over a suit—if you’re still zipping up a puffy ski jacket over yours, stop and take note—or as part of a military uniform, different styles were categorized by length, with overcoats extending below the knee and lighter weight topcoats finishing above it. Today, these distinctions are largely irrelevant, and the coats can be worn with both casual and formal outfits, making them particularly versatile pieces.
Dolce&GabbanaImage: FarFetch.com.
Saint Laurent Image: Ssense.com.
Yet just because this style has steeped forward from history, don’t take that as a literal order to don your dad’s shapeless coat and call it “vintage.” Modern interpretations update the design with contemporary flair, ensuring class without appearing outdated. This season Dolce&Gabbana rolls out a double-breasted version in a full bold red moment, while Saint Laurent offers a bold leopard print in Hedi Slimane’s unmistakable rocker image. Both of these which instantly brightening up any winter ensemble—something we could all use more of during the desaturated and dreary months following December.
Ann DemeulemeesterImage: MrPorter.com.
More conservative options include the Ann Demeulemeester shawl-collar wool-blend and Bottega Veneta reversible mohair-blend, both in rich shades of textured gray, making for a dashing look. And if you just can’t give up leather, Neil Barrett delivers a flourish with leather sleeves adorning the wool body of his signature minimalist design. With such a variety options, traditional sophistication easily translates into contemporary style. Button up any of these coats, and you’ll be yearning for cold weather just to show it off. Ready yourself to set the sartorial standard.
Last night’s Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2015 runway show featured an immersive audio collaboration with it-headphones brand Beats By Dre. Guests—including industry heavyweights and celebrities such as Anna Wintour, Andre Leon Talley, Grace Coddington, and Baz Luhrmann—each wore a pair of Beats headphones to tune into an instrumental track and vocal narrative overlaying the show, a concept conceived by composer and record producer Steve Mackey, along with Beats’ creative team and designer Marc Jacobs himself. With the Apple acquisition and upcoming Fendicollaboration, the audio listening device company is certainly are having a good year.
Whether you’re a nervous freshman, (finally) graduating, or just looking to feel young again, the start of back to school season is rapidly approaching. While these items won’t take any exams for you, they will make the transition easier.
1. RAG&BONE – Geo Print Tee
Image: rag&bone.
Just because temperatures are dropping, it doesn’t mean you don’t need T-shirts. A subtle geometric print makes this one stand out just enough.
Geo Print Tee, $95, rag&bone. Available for Purchase online at Rag-Bone.com.
2. NIKE – Nike+ FuelBand SE
Image: Nike.
This FuelBand from Nike will keep track of your physical activity to give your mind a rest from all that studying.
Nike+ FuelBand SE, $99, Nike. Available for purchase online at Nike.com.
3. PUBLIC SCHOOL – Ribbed Lounge Pants
Image: SSENSE.
Style shouldn’t stop when you enter your dorm. These zippered lounge pants will keep up your image even while lounging on your bed.
Black Ribbed Lounge Pants, $590, Public School. Available for purchase online at Ssense.com.
4. 3.1 PHILLIP LIM – 31 Hour Backpack
Image: SSENSE.
Not your raggedy old schoolback: this minimalist backpack features buffed leather and tonal hardware for a sleek, sophisticated look. It’ll carry your essentials long after graduation.
Black Leather 31 Hour Backpack, $1,095, 3.1 Phillip Lim. Available for purchase online at Ssense.com.
Opening Ceremony, downtown New York’s indie answer to department store shopping—although the price tags might say otherwise— just released its latest big-eared collaboration with Disney for a perkily-printed capsule collection celebrating the 85th anniversary of the first ever Mickey Mouse film, Steamboat Willie. The limited edition line features vivid stills from the animated film printed onto ready-to-wear (buttown-down shirts, fees, sweatshirts, and soft knits) as well as OC partner products including Vans slip-ons, New Era snapbacks, and Tabio socks. Call it fashion nostalgia—in the vein of last year’s OC x Elvis Aloha-inspired collar, and not the ever-trolling, completely terrifying vintage photos of Disneyland from the 1950’s—or following sartorial suit (flashes of Bobby Abley, Jeremy Scott, and Marc Jacobs quickly scamper across our internal runways), or just an animated homage Either way, we’re excited.
Image: Opening Ceremony.
Image: Opening Ceremony.
The Mickey Mouse x Opening Ceremony collection is available online and at OC retail stores.
Knitwear might not be the first thing you think of when it comes to your spring wardrobe, but this season’s slouchy cardigans, casual knit blazers, and cozy sweaters put the ease in springtime dressing.
Top image: Cardigan, PORTS 1961; Trousers, MARC JACOBS