Tag Archives: Fashion Week

jeremy

The Next Phase of New York Fashion Week

Some of the most established names in the New York Fashion Week circuit are leaving the city. After presenting its Spring/Summer 2020 show in a subway station, Tom Ford is now opting to present its next collection in Los Angeles two days before the Academy Awards. And Jeremy Scott (who similarly showed a Pre-Fall 2020 collection in a subway, albeit for Moschino) will be presenting his namesake line in Paris later this summer. There seems to be a general sense of worry as big-name designers depart the once-dominant fashion capital — could the end of NYFW be near?

 

Quite simply, no. This is actually a good thing — this might be some of the best news since Project Runway returned to Bravo. When celebrity designers bypass NYFW to gain some new credibility (and customers) in a different country, it clears the way for a fresh wave of designers to take the stage and essentially construct a new fashion landscape. Brands like Linder, N.Hoolywood, Nihl,  Wiederhoeft, Area, and Chromat among others are some of the fresher labels that are offering different perspectives. The fact that they don’t have to compete with the same timeslots as the Fords and Scotts of the industry works in their favor.

 

Back in 2016, Kanye West controversially and suddenly decided to present a show during NYFW. This was seen as a kind of a “fuck you” to local designers that had spent time and money organizing a show, as West’s fame easily eclipses rising talent. His show, which was more a media circus than anything, was met with a lukewarm response but one thing was made clear: celebrity over clothes. Maybe some of the bigger names are leaving since they are simply growing weary from the competition.

 

It’s an exciting time to be a designer in the city. There’s a whole generation of creatives — a generation that has essentially been raised on social media and to which gender fluidity is a standard rather than a trend — who doing really cool shit and they should have the opportunity to share it with the world in the context of NYFW. There are still a number of household-names like Michael Kors, Helmut Lang, Proenza Schouler, Christian Siriano, and Oscar de la Renta that are all slated to present in the city next month. And if you’re worried about the future state of fashion week, remember that everything in the industry is cyclical. So rest assured, NYFW will never really die.

 

 

 

Opening Ceremony Closes

Opening Ceremony Stores Closing for Good

Following the news that Off-White backer New Guards Group just purchased the brand yesterday, Opening Ceremony announced the closing of all of its stores. In a statement, co-founders Carol Lim and Humberto Leon revealed that all four of their locations will close this year. The news comes unexpectedly today as the founders were meant to continue as creative directors of the brand after stepping down from Kenzo last year. The popular downtown shopping institution has not announced their future plans yet, but one can only hope that at least the e-commerce will sustain.

 

Rumors floated in 2018 that the brand was going through a rough time. Supposedly the business had a round of layoffs and was desperately searching for an investor. And despite the tragic news for today’s fashion crowd, we can only hope that the brand will reinvent and bring its vibrant community back together. Until then, we mourn the 18-year run of the Howard Street location.

 

 

 

 

versace pre fall 2019

Versace Will Now Present Two Coed Shows a Year

Starting next year, Versace will consolidate its fashion presentations into just two separate coed shows during Milan Fashion Week in February and September.

 

“This is an experiment that for the moment is limited to 2020. It is a known fact that I like change and experimenting and in a moment in which so many things are changing inside the company, I wanted to modify the way I show the collections as well,” Donatella Versace, the designer’s chief creative officer, said in a statement. “The decision was made to highlight how the collections for men and women are using the same language and aesthetic and that this has been going on for quite a while, hence the decision to use the same moment to show this vision at the same time.”

 

Versace has previously staged men’s and women’s wear together as recently as last year for its Pre-Fall 2019 collection, making its New York debut in December. Meanwhile, other Italian designers including Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo have reverted to showing men’s and women’s collections separately, with the aforementioned returning to Milan Men’s Fashion Week in January.

demna gvasalia

Demna Gvasalia Departs Vetements

The master of dad-core meme fashion and creative director of Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia has stepped down from his position of head designer for anti-fashion brand Vetements. The designer founded the label with his brother, Guram, back in 2014 and it quickly received acclaim and polarized response from the industry at large.

 

According to WWD, Gvasalia will continue to explore new opportunities in addition to his role at Balenciaga. He’s behind some of the label’s most viral moments, including the simple branded rain jackets that became a fashion week favorite, the DHL battery inspired collection, and essentially creating the template for the dad sneaker revival.

 

“Demna’s talent and vision of fashion have been fundamental in the continued success of Vetements. He has made an outstanding contribution to the company’s legacy and in writing the codes of the brand,” the label said in a statement.

private policy pixel capsule collection

Private Policy Releases PIXEL Collection

Ahead of its Spring/Summer 2020 collection, New York-based label Private Policy has released a limited-edition capsule collection. Inspired by the checkerboard print that has become a staple for the brand, the PIXEL collection skews the signature print with playful fervor that reminds me of those DIY rave posters from the ’90s. Some key items from the drop include a flowy viscose button downs, matching cyber-punk-inspired biker shorts, and a printed baseball cap with an added hoop detail that’s also available in rainbow print — it is pride month after all. And perfect timing for a brand that considers nightlife such an integral part of its design process.

 

The Private Policy PIXEL collection is available online now with more drops to be released throughout the summer. Check out some pictures (shot by Harvey Lee) below and read our interview with the designers here.

 

 

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private policy pixel

 

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private policy pixel
sies-marjan-feature

Sies Marjan To Launch Menswear Show

On June 22, Sies Marjan will show an official menswear collection as part of Paris Fashion Week. The New York-based designer has previously launched a men’s capsule collection back in 2017, but for Spring/Summer 2020 the designer will showcase a more expansive range as part of its first men’s show.

 

“I am confident that now is the time for Sies Marjan to debut a men’s show,” creative director Sander Lak said in a statement. “We are eager to continue the evolution of this category, which has been a success since its launch. Menswear comes naturally to me as I was originally trained as a menswear designer, so it feels like I’m going back to my roots.”

 

The previous men’s offering has kept up with the label’s dreamy romantic aesthetic, so we look forward to seeing a new collection on June 22.

 

prada-features

Prada Hosts the Ultimate Paris Fashion Week Party

To help close out another Paris fashion week, Prada hosted ‘The Sound of Prada’ party in Montmartre over the weekend in collaboration with Spotify. The star-studded soiree was held at the historical club Sacré, recently renovated and specially reserved for the designer itself. Everyone from it-models Gigi Hadid, Winnie Harlow, and Luka Sabbat, to industry veterans like Haider Ackermann were there to show face in what was a perfect sendoff to fashion month. Until next time, check out some of the pics from the party below.

Images: Prada.

 

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Bryan Yambao

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Chloe Sevigny and Luka Sabbat

prada-3Coco Rocha

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Haider Ackermann