Starting next month, the California African American Museum in Los Angeles will host Cross Colours: Black Fashion in the 20th Century, a new exhibition showcasing the seminal brand. Cross Colours is a label that quickly rose to fame on The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, which I’m sure all of us have at least some familiarity with. Both the brand and Will Smith‘s careers blew up during this show, with the vibrant clothing being worn by Smith countlessly over the years.
The streetwear brand, founded by Carl Jones and TJ Walker, dedicates itself to conveying a positive social message, their tagline being “Clothing Without Prejudice.” The brand had a surge of fame in the 90s being worn by Snoop Dogg, Stevie Wonder, Muhammad Ali, and Dr. Dre, and then again in 2018 seen on Bruno Mars and Cardi B at their Grammys performance. All of these highlights along with other memorable pop culture moments will be displayed at the exhibition.
Cross Colours: Black Fashion in the 20th Century will open on September 25th and run until March 1st, 2020.
Reebok has updated another one of its seminal sneaker models from the ’90s, the Aztrek Double. To celebrate the nostalgic launch, the sportswear brand is rolling out a multi-platform campaign, featuring ambassadors Cardi B and Future, and inviting customers to ‘Sport the Unexpected.’ The elaborate campaign (available on all Reebok platforms) includes exclusive video footage that explores some of the label’s most popular sneakers, as well of the gear in action at a basketball game. Originally launched in 1993, the Aztrek Double remains one of Reebok’s most recognizable shoes and has been reimagined in a crisp all-white style for the modern consumer, with two more color options to be released later this year.
Landing on the scene with a hyper-surreal perspective, Thierry Mugler dominated the fashion world in the late 20th century with his high-production showmanship and futuristic garments. By fusing science fiction and film noir visuals into razor-sharp silhouettes that celebrated femininity, the French label was able to simultaneously capture the zeitgeist and propel it to new heights, turning runway shows into opulent spectacles and models into superwomen.
The reclusive designer, who stepped down from his eponymous brand in 2002 before it shuttered completely shortly after, remains an instrumental figure in contemporary fashion. Renowned for sculpting entire worlds that extended far beyond the runway and amassing a vast body of work that fortified his singular vision, Mugler’s influence remains as idiosyncratic as ever and continues to rouse the public. Almost two decades after exiting the limelight, the designer is being honored with the first exhibition dedicated to his work, Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, which opens at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts this weekend.
When presented with the idea to commission an exhibition, Mugler himself chose curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot to make it a reality. Loriot has emerged as a young, yet seasoned veteran in sartorial show curation—his first exhibition was the widely successful Jean-Paul Gaultier retrospective that toured the world from 2011 to 2016.
“I was quite surprised and flattered when he [Mugler] asked because I know that many museums approached him for the chance to do an exhibition about his work,” Loriot says. “I guess it was a match with the museum director here [Nathalie Bondil] because we do more installations, rather than general retrospectives.”
The two worked closely together to design an immersive experience poised to re-introduce the genius of Mugler’s mind to the masses. (After all, the designer was the first to host a show that was open to the public—the Fall/Winter 1984 show in Paris featured over 350 looks and drew in an audience of over 6,000.) “We make installations that are very alive,” Loriot assures. “We are storytellers. That’s what the exhibition will be about—it’s going to be about fashion and the obsession with Mugler through the years with a thematic approach.”
Comprised of over 150 full couture looks (many on display for the first time), the exhibition encompasses Mugler’s multidisciplinary work as a full auteur, including photographs, original illustrations, and rare video footage from his extensive archives, which remain hidden and carefully preserved in secret warehouses throughout France.
“It’s quite impressive to see the level of perfection that was achieved in these pieces, and also the amount of work and number of hours he spent on every piece,” Loriot says, regarding his time spent combing through the archives and what viewers should expect. “Many people see the pieces in the magazines and on TV, but to see them up close is really impressive.” There’s also some irony that Mugler, whose work was frequently acclaimed for its futuristic appeal, had not preserved any of his archives digitally. “[Mugler] stopped doing fashion in 2002, when pretty much all the photographers went digital, so none of the images were digitized from the archives.”
Despite a seemingly never-ending public demand for all things nostalgic, Loriot is adamant that the exhibition is very much a reflection of today. “I don’t think this is something nostalgic, to be honest. I think this is more like a new work altogether,” he says. Additionally, a section of the exhibit includes new looks crafted exclusively for the museum.
He also mentions the importance of re-contextualizing Mugler’s work for modern consumption. Even at his career peak, his pieces were not without scrutiny—critics frequently deemed his clothes sexist and harmful for their exaggerated shapes and hypersexual tone.
“I think it’s always interesting to put things in context. We live in a #MeToo era,” he says, showing how hindsight has affected interpretation to carry Mugler’s work in higher regard. In his universe, women were autonomous supervixens who existed unburdened by systemic oppression. And it’s likely this interpretation that has continued to attract some of the biggest stars—like Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, and Cardi B—today.
Since parting ways with his label, Mugler (who’s reverted to using his birth name, Manfred) has turned his focus to extreme bodybuilding, yet his larger-than-life presence still resonates within the industry. His brand remains a fragrance juggernaut, consistently ranking among best-selling in the world since the first perfume launched in 1992. And the label remains a Paris Fashion Week fixture since its resurrection in 2010 under the direction of stylist and art director Nicola Formichetti. (It’s currently overseen by Casey Cadwallader.) But it’s this exhibition that promises to remind the public why a designer like Mugler is so necessary—harnessing a distinct utopian vision, he shattered sartorial convention and expanded the notion of what fashion could be.
“He was really using fashion as a medium; as an artist, and for me that’s what’s important,” Loriot says. “He revolutionized the system.”
This article is featured in the Spring 2019 issue of Essential Homme.
With an increasing number of pop legends opting for residencies in lieu of touring (like Gaga, Xtina, and Cardi B, oh my!), Las Vegas remains an unparalleled entertainment destination. But after the show comes the after party, which is where Alex Cordova comes in. Since joining Wynn Las Vegas as its executive vice president and managing partner in 2016, Cordova has set a new standard nightlife on the Strip with the massive success of XS Nightclub at Encore.
“Over the last 10 years, XS Nightclub has continually provided our clientele with the most unique nightlife experiences housed inside the Las Vegas epicenter of excellence, Wynn Las Vegas,” Cordova shares over email. “We have always delivered a diverse music lineup featuring international superstars in conjunction with immersive experiences driven by our uncompromising customer service.”
A born-and-bred New Yorker, Cordova has garnished over 20 years in the industry, with a previous stint at Hakkasan Group, which manages a roster of venues including 1 OAK at the Mirage and Omnia at Caesars Palace. XS Nightclub remains a fixture that continues to intrigue patrons due to its commitment to introducing unique talent to the area — Cordova spearheaded last year’s Art of the Wild festival, which he marks as a crowning achievement. “It’s not often that a sole idea of mine gets fully realized on that scale and in such a short amount of time,” he remarks. “This was the first time in Las Vegas that an entire property showcased techno and house music for an entire weekend. It was amazing to see my vision come to life, and I feel humbled by how much joy it brought our customers and staff.”
“It’s the perfect blend of music, experience, and audience. It’s important to stay in tune with emerging trends and seek out up-and-coming brands in order to maintain our position as innovators in the nightlife space,” he says, on how he maintains such a vibrant club atmosphere. “Our job is to continually diversify and provide our clientele with what is new in nightlife experiences.”
Over a decade later, Cordova remains focused on amplifying nightlife in the city. “Our focus is in Las Vegas,” he proclaims. “Even with all of the accolades we’ve earned to this point, we are still working to realize the full potential of XS and are looking ahead to grow it further at home here at Wynn Las Vegas. This is our 10 year anniversary, and we are excited to be unveiling some big surprises to honor it. So, please stay tuned.”
Another masterpiece from A24, Lean on Pete is a coming of age tale/horse film that features a breakout performance from actor and EH spring 2018 cover star Charlie Plummer. A dark (read: sad) tale about a boy’s cross country journey to find his estranged family is anchored by nuanced yet powerful performances by Plummer, Steve Buscemi, and Chloë Sevigny. Out today, it’s received critical acclaim since its premiere last year at 74th Venice International Film Festival.
LISTEN: Cardi B – Invasion of Privacy
Last year’s biggest breakout act Cardi B released her long-awaited debut album today! Invasion of Privacy is an eclectic mix of bop after bop that makes you wanna dance and fight someone. Slick production accompanies the new icon’s signature blunt flow and one liners that are sure to be seen on many an Instagram caption as summer nears. Featuring guest appearances by Chance the Rapper, Migos, and SZA, this album is already the record of the year and we’re oh so grateful. Listen to it now.
Earlier this week Lincoln teased with a preview of it’s new vehicle with unprecedented elegance and smoothness of drive dubbed as the Aviator. The car itself is actually a three-row SUV with a plug-in hybrid option, smartphone used as key, and a roomy interior. Inspired by aeronautics, it has an emphasis on graceful lines, comfort, convenience and relaxation.
Howard Greenberg Gallery offers a peek into the “humanist” photography of post-war Europe by Ed van der Elsken. Often the forgotten Humanist behind photographers like Henri Cartier-Bresson, Robert Doisneau, etc, van der Elsken took to capturing humans, their daily activities, love and emotions. His photography is almost even romantic because it has an innocent, unapologetic quality. This particular exhibit focuses on love, alienation, and bohemian counterculture in Amsterdam, Paris, and Tokyo. It will be open to the public through May 5th.
