Grooming

In the Washroom with Nick Arrojo, Jeff Raider, and Rodney Cutler

In the Washroom is a series of short interviews with interesting men in the fashion industry about everything appearance-wise except clothes. From overall grooming advice to wish list products, we sat down with Nick Arrojo of Arrojo StudioHarry’s‘ Jeff Raider, and Cutler Salons Founder Rodney Cutler to get a little insight into what goes into each man’s grooming routine.

nick (1)Image: Nick Arrojo.

With over 35 years of experience in front of and behind the camera (he was the dude in charge of all the good hair on “What Not To Wear”), Nick Arrojo sure knows what’s in and what’s not. With the upcoming launch of two new salons in New York—one in TriBeCa, which will serve as a salon, educational centre, and creative studio, and another in Williamsburg—the grooming guru shines a light on looking good for spring.

Essential Homme: As layers lessen, how does your grooming routine change with the passing of seasons?

Nick Arrojo: As the weather gets warmer there is more humidity in the air. More moisture makes the hair expand, curl, and generally go bigger and wilder than before. If your hair is naturally curly or has unusual growth patterns this can be especially problematic as it exacerbates the challenges you already have. The first step is to cleanse and condition with highly moisturizing products—by having more moisture in your hair, it will be less likely to expand in search of it in the air. The second is to style with products that are also moisturizing.

EH: What are some trends you’ve noticed in requests from your customers?

NA: Reversing recent trends for barbered styles and military fades, recently we are receiving requests for Mod-inspired styles featuring longer back and sides with shorter tops, creating disciplined masculine shapes with deconstructed edges. There is a lot of asymmetric cutting, undercutting, and heavy tops; styles that still look tough but with more of a mischievous edge.

Pomade-FinalImage: Arrojo Studio.

EH: Many guys are hesitant about trying a new groomer. Any advice on selecting stylists?

NA: The best way to find out if you and a stylist are compatible is through a consultation. All good salons offer ones for free, so take advantage of this gift. Your stylist’s communication skills, confidence, and personal sense of style should give you plenty of ammunition to discover if you are on the same stylistic page. Another good indicator is the salon or barbershop itself. Does it project a high-end, fashionable feeling? Or does it feel more like a mom and pop store? Is it dirty or clean? Does everything appear to be stuck in the ’80s or is the space contemporary and the people cool? If it looks old-fashioned, usually the hair cuts are too.

EH: One product every guy should check out for Spring?

NA: ARROJO Pomade. It’s water-soluble, so it can rinse out easily. It’s also very versatile. You can use it on wet or dry hair; it has lots of moisture, which helps fight frizz; it can slick and shine, sculpt and groom.

Harry's---Jeff-Raider-(1)Image: Jeff Raider

If Warby Parker wasn’t proof enough, Harry’s Co-Founder and Co-CEO Jeff Raider has a gift for crafting stylish tools that guys actually use on a regular basis. From colorful at-home razors to the brand’s very own barbershop, Raider knows what you need to be the best (and best looking) you.

EH: As layers lessen, how does your grooming routine change with the passing of seasons?

Jeff Raider: Living in New York, my face is constantly exposed to cold and dry air so I always use a moisturizer. To protect myself after shaving (which removes a layer of skin) I always use an aftershave moisturizer to form a barrier from further irritation. For my hair, I keep it simple and consistent throughout the seasons.

EH: What are some trends you’ve noticed in requests from your customers?

JR: We’ve noticed that guys like to change it up more and more with their facial hair. They’ll grow out their beard for a few days and then shave it clean. You never know which guy is going to show up–they like the contrast. When guys have a little more time to shave, they like to use our Barber Edition Shave Cream, an ultra-rich formula of our shave cream. It makes your face tingle and you can use it with a brush.

Untitled-1Image: Harry’s

EH: Many guys are hesitant about trying a new groomer. Any advice on selecting stylists?

JR: The best thing I can say is choose a barber based on their understanding of your head and face shape. A barber’s job is to shape the cut to the head, not the head to the cut. They’ll ask lots of questions and work with you to create the best look for your style and for your head shape.

EH: Current styling tool of choice?

JR: A Truman Razor in Total Orange is my go-to grooming tool.

EH: One product every guy should check out for Spring?

JR: We have a new razor stand launching this spring, and we’re really excited about it. The stand keeps your blades high and dry, preserving the quality, and you’ll be proud to have it on your sink!

Untitled-2Image: Whom You Know.

With the mantra “from runway to reality,” Rodney Cutler has been offering editorial hair and grooming services at his own entity, Cutler Salon, for over ten years. With three locations in New York and his own product line, the legendary stylist has left his mark on everything from magazine shoots to afterwork touch-ups.

EH: As layers lessen, how does your grooming routine change with the passing of seasons?

Rodney Cutler: Taking care of my skin all year is imperative to looking great and staying confident in my appearance, so not much changes season to season. I wear a great SPF moisturizer year-round to minimize the aging effects of the sun. I will occasionally veer towards a lighter moisturizer, as the air and my skin are both less dry during the spring and summer months.

EH: Many guys are hesitant about trying a new groomer. Any advice on selecting stylists?

RC: Nothing works better than a recommendation from your sharpest looking friend. Don’t be afraid to compliment your best mate when he’s looking fresh and ask him the name of his barber/stylist. Or when in doubt, a quick search on Instagram or other social media outlets for men’s styles should lead you to a few local stylists that can take you from dull to dashing.

EH: For guys that can’t get into the barbershop or salon that often, what do you recommend for at-home maintenance?

RC: If you’ve been sporting a beard or a little scruff on the face, make sure that it’s always well-groomed and maintained. Take an extra few minutes in the morning to trim down your facial hair to a tidy length. A sharp, well-kept face will detract from any imperfections going on above the brow. Also, most barbers and stylists will offer a complimentary five minute neck clean-up in between appointments. This is great for those guys on the go who can’t break away for the prerequisite 30-45 minute haircut appointment. Just don’t forget to leave a little tip for that complimentary service!

Fatboy
Image: fatboy.

EH: Current styling tool of choice?

RC: If you’ve taken the leap and grown your hair out, invest in a small, inexpensive blowdryer. With longer hair, the right styling product is imperative, but your hair should be at least 80% dry before applying product or else your styling cream can clump up and make your hair look greasy or oily.

EH: One product every guy should check out for Spring?

RC: One of my all-time favorites is fatboy, an amazing styling putty great for both shorter and longer hair textures. The same company is releasing a slightly creamier styling product called Boss Dog that is ideal for longer, effortlessly unkempt styles (coming Spring 2015).