Linder always delivers romantic and concept-heavy collections and its release for Spring/Summer 2020 is no different. This time around, the New York-based label follows the narrative of a privileged educated young man who seemingly struggles with purpose and escape — this is represented through the accompanying lookbook which features a series of men in a variety of backdrops that are serene yet sterile. There are plenty of hints at elite educational motifs (like vintage sport stripes and a modified cricket jacket ) that are contrasted with exaggerated hardware details, like label’s signature exposed oversized buttons on denim pieces. An equestrian theme is also explored, most strikingly with two leather paneled jackets — one look is complete with a riding crop that’s more S&M than country club, which isn’t a bad thing. It’s like the sartorial equivalent of the opulence of Cruel Intentions versus the internal conflicts of Brett Easton Ellis’ Rules of Attraction. Plus the label’s popular ‘Boyfriend’ print makes a happy return.
Check out some key looks from the collection below.
In only a few seasons, New York-designer Linder has earned a close following thanks to its romantic, storylike collections. The label’s latest output for Fall/Winter ’19 was inspired by the Romanov family, and saw a darker tone, exploring the current state of the fashion industry and seeking comfort (and refuge) in the fantasy. We caught up with Kirk Millar, who co-founded the label and oversees its menswear (co-founder Sam Linder designs its women’s line), over email to further explain how the former Russian dynasty influenced the collection.
Images: Kirk Millar.
EH: Can you elaborate on what drew you to the story of the House of Romanov for this collection?
KM: I have always been interested in their story, but I dove very deep into it after a documentary on the House of Faberge. The documentary hit me square in the eyes and it was like a lightbulb went off. The Romanovs were powerful, and had a long reign… then in a very short amount of time were executed after completely shifting the country’s identity, etc. It’s not a statement on them being justified in doing so or not, but the simple fact of the influence that they had for 300 years.
EH: This is a bit of a darker theme compared to your previous, more romantic collections. What inspired this departure for Fall ’19?
KM: For me the story is dark, but it’s also how I feel about fashion at the moment. Most of the industry, in my opinion, lacks depth and sensitivity, yet is expected to somehow mirror the current culture. I think this is actually an extremely romantic collection full of fantasy and excitement despite its darker themes. The idea of a monarchy being taken down is, to me, a very sweeping, romantic story of tragedy full of rich inspiration.
EH: The imagery mentioned in the collection is a bit vivid and violent — are you hopeful for the future fashion or troubled?
KM: I think it is in trouble right now, it seems to have lost its identity. Much of what people are interested in is not about quality, beauty, or enriching peoples lives. It seems to be about an Instagram like and how loudly you can pair outrageous clothing. Everything is about a popularity contest, much like high school… and real creatives were never that before in their lives, and shouldn’t be expected to be that now. No one has time to pay attention to nuance which is essential to be chic. My hope is by 2020 we see the new decade usher in a new consciousness of how outrageous and kind of shallow much of the work right now seems to be.
EH: Do you think fashion has always been political?
KM: I didn’t really approach this collection from a political point of view whatsoever. I thought of the story as almost a tale of misfortune when the world shifts, there are things that have to go to make room for the ‘new.’ Right now I see the entire industry changing, and what was there before was not perfect, very flawed actually, but I tend to wonder if there will be any remnants of fantasy and dreaming left after everything is deconstructed so far past recovery.
While men’s jewelry remains a niche space in general, it’s nice to see the return of a flashy accessory: the dangly earring. The jewelry has enjoyed popularity time and time again as a notable look from seminal artists whose style is synonymous with their work. Prince constantly embraced the jewelry, frequently sporting dramatic gold hoops and upper ear cuffs. David Bowie opted for more elaborate pieces to match his otherworldly stage persona. And I can only assume the large number of cross earrings I’ve seen can be attributed to the late and great George Michael who popularized the look during his Faith days in the ’80s.
A number of dangly earrings have been included in recent menswear shows. Linder, Willy Chavarria, and Feng Chen Wang all incorporated the pieces into their Spring 2019 collections, signaling the welcome return of the trend — Willy Chavarria featured models wearing full sets while Linder and Feng Chen Wang accessorized with single statement pieces. It’s always nice to see a little bit of glitz added to a casual look, so go forth and experiment with a dangly earring that works for you. It would make George proud.
New York contemporary designer Linder has carved a special place for itself in the crowded and ephemeral fashion landscape. Founded by Sam Linder and Kirk Millar in 2013, the label consistently produces romantic collections with a dark edge that distinguishes them from their peers. This season is no different — for menswear, there’s a queerness to the clothes that’s idiosyncratic and entirely organic. We spoke to Millar, who earlier this year took over creative direction for the brand’s menswear while Linder oversees women’s, during the SS19 menswear presentation hosted atop the Public Hotel on the Lower East Side.
“I always, with a traditional fashion show, feel left a little empty afterwards. Like it goes by so quickly, so this is nice” Millar shares, gesturing at the crowd of people mingling on the terrace and generally having a ball. “I can be social with people, and talk them through what they’re seeing. I also feel think in terms of how social media goes and the ability for people to get to take their own photos and let it sink in — it’s a better format.”
For FW19, the designer focused on the queer experience, incorporating various symbolism into the pieces — some shirts were printed with texts from gay romance novels — and dismantling toxic notions of traditional masculinity. The newest collection continues that theme, which is personal to Millar’s own experiences while retaining a universality.
“Since the last collection was the first I had designed myself, it was an opportunity to open up this door of talking about that,” Millar shares on the collection’s queer themes. “Somewhat with experiences that I’ve had, but just kinda thinking universally about what it means to be gay — what it’s like to come out was the focus of the last collection, but this one is much more like, trying to find companionship, somebody you wanna be with for a long time. It’s definitely baked into this one.”
There is an obvious sentiment to the pieces, which include T-shirts bearing cute graphics reading ‘Boyfriend’ and ‘Wait for Me’ along with a series of vibrant sweaters featuring radiant prints, which Millar elaborates on. “The sweaters are taken from my grandmother’s scrapbook,” he reveals. “The prints stand out a lot, and they all have meaning.”
Linder offered up a dual pairing for Spring/Summer 2018, choosing to juxtapose skin-baring cuts with the gloomy palette of a colder season. Meant to accentuate pop culture’s embrace of femininity and sexuality, the line utilized alternative layering to supplement its visual balance.
To step into Linder‘s topsy-turvy Autumn/Winter 2017 world is to enter a realm devoid of rules—the New York brand brought inverted denim, binding accessories, and suggestive arm candy to the runway in darkly delicious droves.
A true fashion experience as designers intended, Trending Tunes is the definitive collection of sleek, rippling audio that graces Spring/Summer 2017 runways the world over. Plug in to the longstanding pairing of music with sartorial art and let the beats inspire.
The mix:
Soundtrack from Linder‘s Spring/Summer 2017 runway show in New York City for New York Fashion Week: Men’s by Michael Elmquist.
Audio: Michael Elmquist, courtesy of Linder.
Neither ESSENTIAL HOMME nor Linder claim ownership of any of these songs. If you have ownership of music in this playlist and wish to not be included, please contact us at INFO [at] essentialhommemag.com and we will remove immediately.
Designers Kirk Millar and Sam Linder focused on subverting everyday staples—a slip-on sock retooled with a zipper, denim recut with back-leg flairs—for an asymmetric yet coherent Spring/Summer 2017 collection for Linder.
The 17th edition of COS‘ magazine, On paper, was released earlier this week and features contributions by some of the best creative talents from the international scenes of art and design, including Gerhard Steidle (German publisher), Linder (artist), Taiye Selasi (writer and photographer), and Sylvia Whitman (Shakespeare and Company Bookstore, Paris).
Image: COS.
This new issue was inspired by paper and focuses on the tactile pleasure and experience of consuming words, images, and ideas on printed pages. Guest contributors also include Julia Born (graphic designer), Anne Holtrop (architect), Lernert and Sander (artists), Hiroshi Eguchi (publisher), Amie Dicke (artist), and Khalid Shafar (industrial designer), all of whom explore the possibilities of what can be achieved with a 1m2 of white paper. Beautiful photography and fashion spreads with a minimalist aesthetic also accompany the texts and interviews.
Image: COS.
Co-founders of Fantastic Man and The Gentlewoman Jop van Bennekom and Gert Jonkers were the masterminds behind the latest COS edition as co-editors. Together they produced a beautiful ode to a classic medium we hope never becomes extinct in the wake of so many cold electronic devices trying to replace it.
The Spring/Summer 2015 issue of COS’ magazine is now available online and in New York and Los Angeles stores.
