Tag Archives: menswear

Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 2012 Collection

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Whoever thought the common brick could become so chic? We’re not surprised in the least that just such a feat has been accomplished by the inimitable Jean Paul Gaultier whose runway was inhabited by shirts, pants, sweaters and jackets that take this basic building block and run wild. The collection, which also features shearling, sleeveless shirts, and skirts also plays on the idea of construction with multitudinous layering to the effect making high style look, dare we say, cozy!


Runway

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Backstage

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Runway photographs by P. Stable
Backstage photographs by Eli Schmidt

Acne F/W 2012 Collection

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Contrasts in proportion, colors and fabrics speak to the powerful relationship between love and insecurity, which just so happens to be the inspiration behind this collection. The looks combine the traditional with the technical an awkward yet somehow charming manner—Harris tweed with vinyl, mohair with fake fur and silk. Shirts and sweaters skew baggy while pants are cut short and are often layered. Pops of bright reds and blues punctuate the collection’s base of black dark blues.

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Kenzo F/W 2012 Collection

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Traditional patterns and prints like paisleys, checks, stripes and medallion have been re-imagined in unique and modern forms in this collection that was inspired by minimalist American artists Donald Judd and Dan Flavin. The looks remain colorful without feeling too bright and detailed without coming off as overdone.

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Issey Miyake F/W 2012 Collection

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At first glance you may be surprised that “kasane” (the Japanese word for to layer) was the inspiration behind the design team at Issey Miyake. The first few looks were even composed of one simple block color top and 3/4 cotton pants with nary a distraction. However, a deeper inspection reveals a more thoughtful approach. Just about all of the items in the collection have been constructed using different methods of layering from Arimatsu Shibori dip dying to the double layering of wool gauze using something we wish we owned: a punching machine!


Runway

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Backstage

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Photographs by Eli Schmidt

John Galliano F/W 2012 Collection

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Even though Galliano took us back to Prohibition era America, from Tommy gun laden gangsters like Al Capone to hirsute sports stars like Joe DiMagio, this isn’t your grandfather’s collection. Double-breasted pin stripe suits, spear point shirts, graphic checks and tweed baggy trousers pop with flashes of metallic silver. Gold leather, printed baseball jerseys, aviator leathers and supped up football pants jump out with the brilliance of an old Leyendecker painting.

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Key Looks: KRISVANASSCHE F/W 2012 Collection

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East meets west in this homage to workers the world over. Wide legged pants and overalls, inspired from Japanese hakama workers are seen throughout the collection and compliment voluminous and belted sweaters, strapped and fitted blazers and coats.


Runway

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Backstage

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Photographs by Eli Schmidt

Jil Sander F/W 2012 Collection

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We know where we’re getting our next suit and trench coat made entirely from leather! Raf Simons was feeling frisky for his latest Jil Sanders offering which, aside from two adorably innocent sweaters (featuring a whale and a dinosaur) that came from beyond left field, turns the darkest soul of man inside out. The blazers, cut closely to the body enhance the sexiest proportions of the masculine chest and the monochromatic sea of black—from lamb leather, calf leather and waxed nylon parkas—give said sex appeal a dangerous and forbidding edge.

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Dsquared2 F/W 2012 Collection

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Campus trouble-maker reined supreme this season for Dean and Dan Caten whose collection once again oozed with boyish sex appeal. Super tight pants paired with short tight jackets are layered over classic argyle sweaters and gorgeous mohair turtlenecks. The boys also debuted their first ever bag line on the runway featuring Italian leather and camouflage lining.

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Mugler F/W 2012 Collection

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Nicola Formichetti and Romain Kremer set forth a collection less grandiose than much of Mugler’s archive but still delivers what we adore about the brand: drama, beauty and craftsmanship. Hyper-tailored military inspired uniforms constructed from an assortment of innovative fabrications like a head to toe jacquard shit, plasticized and rubberized wools still follow in the Mugler tradition, yet this collection will probably be remembered for its meticulously executed tailoring. Like one of Mugler’s classic inspirations, the hero, the brand is a perpetual rallying point for all fans of fashion. That’s because Mugler delivers the things we love. Drama, beauty and craftsmanship.


Runway

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Backstage

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Photographs by Eli Schmidt

Key Looks: Ports 1961 F/W 2012 Collection

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The mighty shape of the obelisk, the inspiration behind this collection, is juxtaposed with demure colors and minute details in craftsmanship in this collection of confident daywear and quietly elegant evening wear. Double-faced cashmere, Swakara lamb and luxurious sable fur linings compose the outerwear which play nicely with tailored suiting and vicuña knits.

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