Tag Archives: menswear

Key Looks: Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2012 Collection

Is it terrible that while perusing Dolce & Gabbana’s elegant Winter collection, we keep going back to the underwear and pajamas? Maybe we’re just thankful that at least one designer out there knows that men of fashion not only want to look their best at work, at a party and on the go, but also in the confines of their own bedrooms. Even so, there is more than just what’s on the inside. The entire collection, which features gorgeously constructed overcoats, baroque inspired embroideries and unrestrictive cuts serves up a much needed dose of relaxed, albeit stately, masculinity.

Key Looks: Gucci F/W 2012 Collection

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Frida Giannini so perfectly captures the unrequited romance of the poet with this beautifully dark and brooding collection. Deconstructed coats, Prussian-esque peacoats and warm overlapping layers of déco floral prints and jacquards play out on velvets, shearling and beaver to give you a powerful hit of bohemian grunge.

Versace F/W 2012 Collection

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Be advised that clamorous squeals of delight may ensue upon viewing Versace’s latest creations that so generously meld grandiose glamour with utmost masculine virility. How could you keep quiet as inexplicably handsome models don florescent floral-military print jumpsuits, Swarovski crystal encrusted denim, full electric red suiting and cropped jackets with all manner of neon shearling collars (which are detachable and interchangeable)? In a season that has mostly spoken to our dark times in similarly moody tones, Versace’s instinct is to pop the cork and pour a glass of champagne. To that, we say “Cheers!”

Canali F/W 2012 collection

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London’s eclectic and elegant past came to life in contemporary fashion on the Canali runway. Seen are updated and modernized looks that take their cues from the dandy, the swinging 60’s and even new romanticism and have been interpreted as at once sophisticated and playful. Floral patterns, double-wide pinstripes, Op Art patterns and floral prints are newly interpreted in modern colors of grey, burgundy, camel, bright blue and vivid greens and in beautiful velvets, nappa leather, deerskin, cashmere, angora and mohair.

ZZegna F/W 2012 collection

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Creative director Paul Surridge’s first outing for ZZegna plays out like a infectious groove from the most minimal of computerized music emanating from a modern day phonograph. Slim and crisp silhouettes are matched by coats and parkas constructed in protective volumes. His douse of technological eccentricity in the form of unforeseen elements like nylon hoods, rubber and copper accents and internal pockets for wireless devices is craftily wielded within a milieu of classic masculinity, most pointedly in his 1920’s inspired three piece suits.

Runway

Photographs by Ionà Montingelli

Backstage

Photographs by Guindani

Key Looks: Vivienne Westwood F/W 2012 Collection

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If there’s one good thing to come from the impending disaster that is global warming it is Vivienne Westwood’s Autumn/Winter 2012 MAN collection. Drawing inspiration from David Attenborough’s documentary series about the dangers of climate change, “The Frozen Planet” (to air in the US in March 2012), Westwood has created a covetable collection of pieces based on polar exploration. Her signature style reigns through on a pallet of punk inspired cold-weather wear—replete with tartan suiting, shearling jackets and chunk-knit patterned sweaters—perfect for weathering the storm in style.

Runway

Backstage

Key Looks: Missoni F/W 2012 Collection

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The charming playfulness of youth is perfectly captured and given a fresh face in Missoni’s buoyant collection. Patterns on shirts, knit cardigans and jackets are matched and layered in the kind of refreshingly care-free and unconventional manner that exude an attractive and unstudied confidence. Thoughtfully utilized tartans, houndstooth, Price of Wales check patterns sprout to life in adorable parkas, suiting, hunting & military attire and motorcycle jackets.

Key Looks: Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2012

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Klein’s indispensable classics were updated with modern shapes, proportions and textures recalling fast-paced city life and an always-on-the-go charm. To protect this dynamic gentleman who most likely dashes from the gym to the office and then to the VIP room at the most exclusive night club in town, creative director Italo Zuccheli has inventively incorporated alligator skins into beautiful felted wool hoodies, pants and dinner jackets. Camel, grey, black and navy add a casual stateliness to voluminous outerwear and vibrant diffused light print suits.

Key Looks: Salvatore Ferragamo F/W 2012 Collection

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Ferragamo’s modern dandy is seen dashing about the streets of the steely cold city. Deep tones of grey, black and navy are made to look even more crisp with pops of electric blue, violet and green. Knitwear has been animated with playful graphics and geometrical necklines while gorgeous velveteen tuxedo jackets come alive in voltaic blues. Also present on the runway, in the form of subtle but statement worthy cufflinks, are the first peaks at Ferragamo’s nascent jewelry line for men, not to be officially released until May.

Key Looks: Costume National F/W 2012 Collection

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Classic notions of “bohemians” and “dreamers” have been remixed and updated to reflect our austere and modern times. Monochromatic pallets of octane, dusty grey, cream and navy are selectively interjected with shots of icy blue and green. The looks are more frequently made to pop with creative proportioning as half trenches and bomber jackets overlay elongated jersey shirts as well as carrot and ankle cut pants.

Ermenegildo Zegna F/W 2012 Collection

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Business, pleasure and brisk mountain-air style intermingle in Ermenegildo Zegna’s A/W 2012 collection. Their assiduous gentleman is sent from his fast-paced city life to ski lodges the world over, where work-time becomes playtime and a cup of coffee is replaced with a glass of warm mulled wine. Natural-shouldered jackets, fustian capes and raw-edge shearling jackets keep the cold outdoors looking sharp. Elongated three-piece suits, chunky and patchwork cashmere and alpaca sweaters, patterned shirts, Napa leather and corduroy pants are offered in varying shades of wood brown, hazelnut and okra, connecting thoughtfully through plaids, checks and chevron for the kind of sophisticated mixing and matching that maybe hard to pull off in an office but work splendidly when the ski lift is but a mere snowmobile ride away. When the sun goes down, the midnight blue, black and snow white play best in the form of a quilted tuxedo and gorgeous “sabled” Spazzolino robe coat.