Watch: Z Zegna AW14 Men’s Runway
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Tag Archives: AW14
MFW: Backstage Neil Barrett AW14
Neil Barrett’s AW14 collection is so hot you’re going to need sunglasses to look at it. Maybe even a few pairs. See our back stage coverage below:
Images by Paolo Simi.
Dolce & Gabanna Brings Male Models Back to Milan
An infantry of iron-clad, medieval suits donned the brown Norman-inspired oak runway in Milan last week. But unlike in recent seasons, the tailored sports coats and straight leg trousers—staples of the classic Dolce & Gabanna—did not come paraded out on handsome Sicilian men scouted from the every day street, as typical for the brand. Instead, a team of familiar—if not just as handsome—faces commanded the show, including seasoned male models such as Tony Ward, Noah Mills, Adam Senn and Elbio Bonsaglio, Evandro Soldati, and Jae Yoo and new faces such as Mariano Ontanon, Arthur Gosses, Alessio Pozzi, Andy Walters, Oliver Cheshire, Sam Webb, Diego Fragoso, Arthur Kurkov, Sacha Legrand, Dae Na, and Sung Jin Park. An appropriate cast for a collection based on conquest.
The theme of the night was culture convergence, dating back to the historical invasion of the island of Sicily by a group of Scandinavians in the year 1061, and the group’s rule in the centuries that followed. The succession of Norman kings during these years (Ruggero I, Ruggero II, William I, William II, Tancredi, Henry VI, Federico II and Manfredi) brought with them an affinity for cold, Gothic colors (think Greys, bordeauxs, browns, and bottle greens), embroidery, and religious imagery from the Church of the Martorana. The influence of this escalated in a 75-look runway show that was as powerful as the inspiration it was based off.
Images courtesy of Dolce & Gabanna.
MFW: Backstage CoSTUME NATIONAL AW14
With CoSTUME NATIONAL’s David Bowie-inspired Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, the backstage is just as glamorous as the runway.
See our exclusive coverage below.
Images by Paolo Simi.
MFW: Backstage Corneliani AW14
Cuffs become linked, shirts are pressed and tucked, and leather bags are puffed out to full volume. See all the production behind the runway show in our behind the scenes footage of Corneliani Autumn/Winter 2014 below!
Images by Paolo Simi.
Watch: Calvin Klein AW14 Men’s Runway LIVE
Got big weekend plans? Well, we do! It’s Milan Fashion Week and we’re bringing classic fashion-Italia style to you. Directly from Milan, live stream the Calvin Klein Collection Autumn/Winter 2014 men’s runway show right here at Essential Homme. The live stream will begin below on Sunday, January 12th at 2:00 PM CET (Milan) / 8:00 AM EST (New York), until then feel free to stare at the beautiful show preview below.
Sunday, after the live streaming event, the show will be viewable on this page for 24 hours, and then after, in case you miss it, the runway show will be viewable at CalvinKlein.com.
Image courtesy of Calvin Klein.
LCM: Reviewing KTZ AW14
Climbing at haute altitudes, the cool-as-ice collection from KTZ gave us the same level of eccentricity we’ve come to expect from the Japanese brand.
Models showed faces painted grey with harsh angular contouring and wore only blacks and whites with touches of metallic. It was an army of Himalayan snow storm warriors, as if a movie from a colorless television screen with a sharp focus.
On the heads of the KTZ men were geometric headpieces hinting at snow googles and Buddhist-inspired turbans in metallic and fur. Jewelry was also worn over garments, with silver necklaces with intricate details and pointed tribal earrings. Quilted biker jackets made several appearances beside carry-on bags, both elements of protection. Layering was also key, with long fur coats worn over other coats and shirts with high niece lines. The hostility came through during the final line up, though, as models walked out and stood in perfectly organised formation. They were un-human and able to survive the harshest conditions.
Images courtesy of KTZ.
LCM: Backstage Burberry Prorsum AW14
The Burberry Prorsum AW14 casual vibe isn’t as easy as it looks, but then again, is it ever? Check out our exclusive backstage photography below and watch the models transform before your very eyes!
Images by Ieva Blazeviciute.
LCM: Reviewing Burberry Prorsum AW14
Burberry Prorsum, the English brand known for its patriotism, took influence from cultures outside of Great Britian for their AW14 collection.
Titled A Painterly Journey the collection visually describes the journey of a British nomad, as he travels far across the globe but never ceases to long for his home. The excitement and energy of Expressionism is used across the clothing, with splashes of color and collage in a Cubist-style geometric color blocking.
Rich in cultural references, Moroccan prints, and other exotic floral patterns, the collection combined typically British signifiers to create a culture clash. Silk scarves, brightly coloured and oversized, sat loosely over the shoulders of darker jackets and trousers. Iconic London streets and complex road maps were drawn over shirts, hinting at the city’s skyline. The Burberry check was featured on knitted pashminas. Jacket shapes were less rigid than before, and models exposed printed linings with casual hands tucked in trouser pockets, all evoking the feeling of layering. For this British powerhouse, who has only recently returned to British soil, the story of a British adventurer feels true at heart to the brand.
Images courtesy of Burberry Prorsum.
LCM: Reviewing Jonathan Saunders AW14
Despite the vast concrete space, the richness of Jonathan Saunders AW14 presentation consumed the room and drew the army of press towards the zealous patterns. Models perched on amplifiers; their hair parted and slicked liked rockers, while brightly coloured electrical cables lay strewn at their feet. As the designer wandered openly through the crowd, we were able to hear his excitement for his inspiration, “Balletic Pikeys.”
1980’s sports silhouettes, such as the bomber jacket, the tracksuit, and the racing jacket were transformed elegantly using silk and fine knits, styled with brogues. Patchwork floral bomber jackets were combined with plumb trousers. Chunky knitted khaki scarves over leather jackets were worn with vibrant red trousers. Red and white Harlequin knitted shirts paired with deep gold tracksuit bottoms. The combinations sound disastrous, yet Saunders possesses an almost innate ability to work with color and patterns to create a vibrant, smart, and casual look.
The color pallet featured hot pink, maroon, khaki, vibrant red, and metallic blue and was combined with bold linear patterns. Knitted pieces featured harlequin checks, stripes, and polka dots and drew attention to the recent collaboration with Scottish knitwear brand Lyle and Scott. Even the soles of the shoes bled bright in primary colors. Despite these bold colors, Sanders’ subtle placement enabled the design to transcend the disposable 1980’s influence and sit comfortably in the luxury feel his brand is known for.
More: See our backstage coverage on the presentation here.
Images courtesy of Jonathan Saunders.
LCM: Backstage Topman Design AW14
See our exclusive behind the bejeweled-scenes look at one of Britain’s top brands…Topman Design!
Images by Ieva Blazeviciute.
LCM: Backstage Jonathan Saunders AW14
Jonathan Saunders brought hints of the 1980’s back to men’s RTW with bold retro colors and oversized cuts. But the fun didn’t stop with the presentation’s finale. See our exclusive backstage photos below.
Images by Ieva Blazeviciute.
