Tag Archives: Jonathan Saunders

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LCM: Reviewing Jonathan Saunders AW14

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Despite the vast concrete space, the richness of Jonathan Saunders AW14 presentation consumed the room and drew the army of press towards the zealous patterns. Models perched on amplifiers; their hair parted and slicked liked rockers, while brightly coloured electrical cables lay strewn at their feet. As the designer wandered openly through the crowd, we were able to hear his excitement for his inspiration, “Balletic Pikeys.”

1980’s sports silhouettes, such as the bomber jacket, the tracksuit, and the racing jacket were transformed elegantly using silk and fine knits, styled with brogues. Patchwork floral bomber jackets were combined with plumb trousers. Chunky knitted khaki scarves over leather jackets were worn with vibrant red trousers. Red and white Harlequin knitted shirts paired with deep gold tracksuit bottoms. The combinations sound disastrous, yet Saunders possesses an almost innate ability to work with color and patterns to create a vibrant, smart, and casual look.

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The color pallet featured hot pink, maroon, khaki, vibrant red, and metallic blue and was combined with bold linear patterns. Knitted pieces featured harlequin checks, stripes, and polka dots and drew attention to the recent collaboration with Scottish knitwear brand Lyle and Scott. Even the soles of the shoes bled bright in primary colors. Despite these bold colors, Sanders’ subtle placement enabled the design to transcend the disposable 1980’s influence and sit comfortably in the luxury feel his brand is known for.

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More: See our backstage coverage on the presentation here.

Images courtesy of Jonathan Saunders.

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76 Reasons Dover Street Market NY is Going to be Awesome

dsmnyThere’s not much that can be said about Dover Street Market—or its founder, the reclusive Rei Kawakubo—that hasn’t already been tried to be pulled out like teeth by the sartorial elite. We could count the number of veiled interviews this year alone with our fingers—if we weren’t already rushing to flip through the rare pages—in which Kawakubo allowed for public comment. There was one with Suzy Munkes, a conversation with Style.com Matthew Schneier, a few brief words for System Magazine‘s second issue, and, for the most part, that was it. Bottom line is, she’s very mysterious.

Now, Kawakubo’s New York edition of Dover Street Market, a seven-story, 18,00 square foot store, opens tomorrow (Saturday, December 21) in perhaps one of Manhattan’s least-posh neighborhoods: Murray Hill (the irony!). There is talk of a Louis Vuitton pop-up shop on the first floor, a Parisian-inspired Rose Bakery on the mezzanine (similar to the store’s counterparts in Tokyo and London), and even a DSM x Prada exclusive collection. All of this, though, is just speculation. What we do know is that the store’s epic stock-list has everything from A.P.C. denim for the everyday to Paco Rabanne couture. See the list of the first 76-known brands that the store will carry below (we’re sure they’ll be more), and we’ll be sure to catch you at the opening.

 

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Dover Street Market New York opens at 160 Lexington Avenue on Saturday, December 21 from 11 AM – 9 PM.

Image courtesy of Dover Street Market.