Tag Archives: Tailoring

The Timeless Cool of the “Tailleur Oblique” Dior Suit

“Its name alone is suggestive of a line that always balances audacity and dignity,” Christian Dior wrote in the press statement for the Oblique Collection, which debuted alongside the Fall/Winter 50-51 collection. This pivotal presentation introduced a modern silhouette — one that was sharper and fresher than other suit cuts at the time — that altered the shape of men’s tailoring for decades to come. Now Kim Jones, current creative director of Dior’s menswear, has added his own spin to the landmark pieces, fusing his unique sense of urban elegance into the fabric of the French label’s legacy.

 

Watch the video above to learn more about the savoir-faire behind the ‘Tailleur Oblique’ suit.

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N. Hoolywood Spring ’20 is Not Punk

At a theatre in the Borough of Manhattan Community College — where I later learned Cardi B attended — models marched to the center of a dark stage in a military-like fashion to showcase the latest output from Japanese/American designer N. Hoolywood. The collection was a hybrid of deconstructed tailoring, tartan prints, colorful pill graphics, and a general anti-establishment aloofness — that is to say, punk as hell. But that’s not what designer Daisuke Obana had in mind.

 

“He didn’t really focus on punk this time,” Obana says backstage, through his unofficial translator and New York correspondent for the label Yasyuo Hibino. “So this is the expression from English culture — he thinks the suiting is very classic and traditional, but other things aren’t as well made. It’s just a summary of what England is to him — it’s not political.

 

Obana was inspired by a recent trip to London — his first in 18 years — when he rediscovered the city “like a tourist.” He went to World’s End, which was originally the SEX boutique founded by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren that was the premier hotbed for punk fashion in the ’70s. He went down Savile Row, the tailoring epicenter of maybe the world. All these British influences were clearly incorporated into the collection, but the designer’s own street-savvy edge kept it from ever appearing gimmicky.

 

There’s also a sustainable aspect embedded in the collection. And since fashion is among the most polluting industries, more designers are announcing sustainable initiatives as the threats of climate change increase and accelerate at an alarming rate. “Large corporations have so much leftover, they have to sometimes burn [excess] because people have to buy new collections,” he says, before explaining that the size of his label prevents this from ever being an issue. “Each season, [our team] really estimates how much they need to produce and there is not really any leftovers. To make samples, they used archive [material], or leftover fabric from previous seasons — they reuse everything to make new collections. So sustainability is quite normal in that sense. It’s not a large [statement], but practical.”

 

There’s an obvious parallel between designing new pieces using discarded pieces or archived materials and punk DIY culture. The whole thing is very ‘Rip it up and start again.’ But there was a demeanor in the presentation and the collection that transcended it beyond any one particular influence, once again demonstrating the label’s strength in combining the classic with the cutting-edge.

 

Images: Courtesy of N. Hoolywood/Satoshi Motoda.

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The Best of Paris Street Style F/W ’19 Pt. 2

The looks were all business at Paris Fashion Week for F/W 19, with sharply tailored looks and a predominantly monochrome color palette occupying the streets. Take a look at some of the best looks from in between the shows.

Images: Andrew Barber.

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Best of Milan’s Fashion Week FW19 Street Style

As the attention moves to Paris for the latest men’s fashion week, we highlight the best street style from Milan. While streetwear maintains its presence among industry insiders, classic tailoring (particularly double-breasted suits, thanks Kim Jones for Dior)  was another theme, potentially indicating a paradigm shift from the more athletic fits that have dominated the mainstream to a more traditional and formal look. Watch this space.

Images: Andrew Barber.

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BOSS Launches Stretch Tailoring With Anthony Joshua

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNtNUBAQ8sI

Offering the best of both worlds, BOSS launched a newly engineered collection yielding maximum comfort while keeping up with the brand’s signature sharp cut silhouettes with a new line of BOSS Stretch Tailoring. The face of the new campaign is British heavyweight stud Anthony Joshua featured in the promo video wearing nothing but his athletic suit and then tailored suit against his firmly toned body. The chosen attire does not restrict his movement or compromise his sartorial edge. Each piece is made from pure wool that responds to the wearer’s physical movement — it’s business casual for the active lifestyle.

Th BOSS x Anthony Joshua collection is available online now at select BOSS stores worldwide. Images: Courtesy of BOSS.

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The Row Set to Debut Menswear in October

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Image: The Row.

The Row, the fashion enterprise by former child-stars-turned-sartorial-legends Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, announced that it will be releasing its first line of menswear this October. The decision to expand into menswear came after the designer slowly and quietly incorporated a limited selection of men’s pieces into its New York and Los Angeles stores — apparently the response was promising enough to inspire a full line. The Row, which is renowned for its perfectly tailored and fitted minimal womenswear, is sure to implement a similar approach to their men’s line, which will reportedly feature a variety of tailored suits. With Céline also set to debut its first menswear collection this fall under the direction of Hedi Slimane, it’s already looking like fashion is embracing the return the of the suit.

 

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Smart Suiting Separates with ASOS SS 14

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Image: ASOS.

Warm pastel gradients, playful polka patterns or light floral neckwear (take your pick!), and tailored, slim-fit cuts. ASOS’s new Spring/Summer 2014 Collection takes the best quirks of prep-school Springtime Formals, and offers them in an array of ready-to-wear separates. While the full collection won’t be available on the site until later this month, you can get a head start by browsing the look book below.