Once again, fashion month kicks off with several high-profile shows in New York before crossing the pond and making waves in London, Paris, and Milan. For Spring/Summer 2020, Helmut Lang returned to prominence by referencing its past, Tom Ford invited the glitterati to a show in a subway station, and Libertine returned to the city to show off its signature LA humor. In case you couldn’t make it, we’ve rounded up some of the week’s highlights.

HELMUT LANG

Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson, who debuted their first collection for the brand in February, are more comfortable at the helm of the legacy label. Treading on some of the designer’s signatures — reflective fabrics, sheer tops, and understated yet pristine tailoring — the collection was a solid albeit safe progression for the seminal brand. Steady as she goes.

LIBERTINE

Johnson Hartig’s return to NYC (after staging his Fall show in his native Los Angeles) was a cornucopia of all his favorite things that totally hit the spot. He used his home textiles and even wallpaper as a basis for the prints and mixed that with crystals, vintage painted Hèrmes bags, and, of course, his louder than life humor.

TOM FORD

The fashion crowded went underground for Tom Ford’s latest, which was held on the subway platform at the Bowery and Delancey (J) stop. Ford’s signature party-ready suits were made over with funky prints (including zebra among other things) and full leather looks were softened by lighthearted pastel hues.

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION

The latest collection from the American designer was packed with more Americana than Lana Del Rey’s entire discography. Combining ’40s influences with a contemporary and sporty spin, the designer recalled the more optimistic days of the country while acknowledging the current divisive state of affairs with a graphic anti-hate sweater.

PYER MOSS

Music pulsed through the veins of Pyer Moss’ most ambitious and striking collection yet. Influences from disco, rock, and hip-hop, among others were visible in the pieces, which was largely inspired by Sister Rosetta Tharpe, the little-known actual Godmother of Rock and Roll. In addition to celebratory ensembles, a political call to action was present with a graphic tank urging onlookers to “Vote or Die — for real this time.” Read our interview with the CFDA Award-winning designer here.

COACH

Richard Bernstein — who helped define Interview Magazine’s pop-aesthetic with his cover illustrations — lent his work to Coach’s recent collection in a full New Wave art-school revival. In addition to the graphic prints starring some of the ’80s biggest stars, the key takeaway was definitely the leather pants, available in every color of the rainbow.

JEREMY SCOTT

In good Jeremy Scott tradition, the designer just wanted to have fun with his collection. Strongly inspired by the ’80s cult class film Liquid Sky, Scott put his models in colorful rock wigs and dressed them in hallucinogenic pieces. Silly and surreal, the collection was an escape from the seriousness of Fashion Week.

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

The designer combined utilitarian fits with a serene sensibility that elevated traditional men’s pieces. Suits were reimagined with subtle cut changes, outerwear was enhanced with performance materials, and while a neutral color palette grounded the rest of the collection.

PRABAL GURUNG

Always a critical favorite during NYFW, this year Prabal Gurung celebrates his brand’s 10th anniversary. He was once told that he did not look American and so his collection dubbed “Who gets to be American?” marries the cultures he belongs to or countries he has lived.

DION LEE

A decade since launching his eponymous line, Dion Lee has taken the global fashion stage. The latest output from the Australian designer raises subversive elements (like the S&M influences evident in the harness tops and leatherwear, and the hanky-code reminiscent bandana that has been converted into a series of loose button-downs and dresses) and adds a sharp and sophisticated spin in the form of concise minimal staples.

ALEXANDER WANG x BVLGARI 

Hosted in the former Bendel’s boutique on 5th Ave, Alexander Wang x BVLGARI was potentially the hottest party of NYFW. With a star-studded guest list including Dua Lipa, Coco Rocha, and all of fashion week’s front row, the bag collection was displayed on nude mannequins as if in a “closed-down store.”

SWAROVSKI BOOK OF DREAMS

The brand’s book launch was celebrated on a Hudson Yards rooftop reminiscent of a prom after-party. Tons of sparkles and plenty of neon lights lit the evening dancing throughout the wee hours of the night.

SAINT LAURENT x DUA LIPA Perfume Launch 

Saint Laurent had perfectly nick picked a concert location for the launch of their fragrance with Dua Lipa only for the singer to announce that she would not sing. (She instead went to her own after-party.) Despite this, the party featured the city’s most beautiful guests wearing tons of black, drinking champagne, and eating Dominique Ansel ice cream-filled mushrooms.
 

TELFAR x JEREMY O HARRIS

The year’s hottest playwright Jeremy O. Harris has landed on Broadway with his controversial and critically acclaimed Slave Play. To celebrate, Telfar hosted a star-studded after-party at the Edition Times Square, with appearances from Hari Nef, Lily-Rose Depp, and Timothée Chalamet.