With intense layering and tons of knits, including cardigans, beanies, and scarves, John Varvatos‘ FW18 show was a welcome throwback, reminiscent of the downtown NYC of the new millennium. There was a sense of a last minute tossed-togetherness that gave this show a vibe of wilderness, yet still belonging in a metropolitan setting. The brand itself vowed to create a relationship between “slouchy-sleek and sophistication.”

Soft shapes were enhanced with wool, parkas, duster coats, and cozy leathers.  There was a sense of overall comfort and functionality, while at the same time respecting the iconic styles of the brand — perhaps this was an interpretation of the “new normal” trend started in Paris last season.

Similar to their laid back yet bold pieces, the designer casually set his runway in a prior synagogue (now the Angel Orensanz Foundation). With a wild forest set and moody lights, the old building grew its roots once again for the first show of fashion week. The brand itself, however, stemmed away from their well-built foundation, adding new fluid pieces that emanated an effortless coolness. Closing the show, the designer stood in front of his models to the soundtrack of Jimi Hendrix’s rendition of the Star-Spangled Banner from Woodstock, showing the harmony of the past and present, and signifying a new turn for the label.

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