Tag Archives: FW18

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Julien David Paris Fall 2018 First Looks

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Images: Paolo Simi for Essential Homme.

Julien David, the Tokyo-based designer known for his off-kilter design approach, kept up the odd for FW18 in Paris. Opting out of the traditional runway show, the designer displayed his newest collection in a staged apartment setting, with models donning latex dog masks (very You’re Next!, if you got a chance to watch that slasher gem). The pieces themselves were fairly accessible, with a mixed-print long cotton jackets, a few coated windbreakers and raincoats making up the majority of the collection.

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seen backstage ahead of the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy.

Marni Fall 2018 Milan First Looks


Photos by Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images for Marni.

Marni offers a wonderland of lost and found objects for Fall/Winter 2018 season. Casual outerwear like puffer jackets, rain-boots, and gym bags are contrasted with tweed suits, button-downs, and ties. Light terra cotta and black colors prevail in the underpinnings while more opulent colors serve as pattern and decoration. The Italian label was inspired by a childlike imagination of hand-drawn prints like monkeys and bead accessories. Even the venue was filled with vacuum cleaners, televisions, stuffed toys, bumper cars, old suitcases, and other items in lieu of seats for the guests. With the latest collection, Marni confirmed that printed jackets, bucket hats, and chunky shoes are still a trend to watch.

seen backstage ahead of the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy.

seen backstage ahead of the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy.

seen backstage ahead of the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy.

MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 13: A model, detail, walks the runway at the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Marni)

MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 13: A model, detail, walks the runway at the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Marni)

MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 13: A model, detail, walks the runway at the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Marni)

MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 13: A model, detail, walks the runway at the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Marni)

MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 13: A model, detail, walks the runway at the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Marni)

MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 13: A model, detail, walks the runway at the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Marni)

MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 13: A model, detail, walks the runway at the Marni show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 13, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Marni)

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Yoshio Kubo Fall 2018 Milan First Looks

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Images: Alessandro Russo for ESSENTIAL HOMME.

The Japanese brand Yoshio Kubo focused on Mount Everest as the scene of a plane crash. The models wore organza anoraks, hoods, and turbans as protective gear on top of more traditional suits. Influenced by the Nepal region, the conceptual collection uses a splash of red and purple colors alongside classic blacks, tans, and green.

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Prada Milan FW18 Grooming & Beauty

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Images: Paolo Simi for ESSENTIAL HOMME.

Going back to its roots, Prada offered a look back at the days of bucket hats, padded shirts, and printed shorts. Backstage we saw bare faces free of makeup with hair kept natural. The runway reflected just that with strict simplicity represented in black nylon. Additionally, the new Prada logo served as the luggage label atop each piece.

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Moschino Fall 2018 Milan First Looks

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Images: Paolo Simi for ESSENTIAL HOMME.

Moschino delivered not one but two major 90s Madonna references — the soft S&M aesthetic of Erotica and the deconstructed menswear of the Blond Ambition tour — in one rich presentation. Several models were covered with black latex masks, jackets were kept opened to reveal studded leather harnesses, suits were printed with newspaper-clipping graphics, and suits were deconstructed and repurposed in a way that I can only assume should be interpreted as a reclamation of power. Here for it. Slay.

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Marcelo Burlon County of Fall 2018 Milan First Looks

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Images: Paolo Simi for ESSENTIAL HOMME.

Metal-inspired imagery continue to flow into the fashion domain, seen everywhere from Vetements to the Justin Bieber tour merch. Marcelo Burlon County of Milan relies on it for its FW18 which is ripe with nostalgia and Street Fighter flair. Full of novelty references — patches and graphics galore, hello logomania! — the collection was a playful presentation that provided a different perspective to the formalwear that dominated the rest of the season. Bright colors and plenty of face tattoos gave the collection a fantastically vivid tone, like a comic-book come to life.

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Diesel Black Gold Fall 2018 Milan First Looks

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Images: Paolo Simi for ESSENTIAL HOMME.

A melting pot of global references, including biker design cues, 70s bohemian loose fits, and a series of  Western pattern prints, the Diesel Black Gold delivered a dose of multicultural fusion. A dark color palette — composed of monochrome tones, deep blues, and the occasional burst of red — established a dark tone that gave the collection an urban edge in contrast to the soft silhouettes. The intricate detailing on tough fabrics, and combination of loose tops with structured bottoms was the perfect balance of hard and soft that has become synonymous with the label.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Fall 2018 Milan First Looks

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Images: Paolo Simi for ESSENTIAL HOMME.

Inspired by the Alpine foothills that surrounds the designer’s headquarters, Ermenegildo Zegna‘s FW18 presentation was a seasonal masterpiece, emphasized by the fake snow that covered the runway and was swept up with each model’s walk. The brand’s impeccable tailoring was enhanced with thoughtful embellishments — like the label’s logo repurposed into different print patterns on a series of sweaters and a shiny embroidered leaf illustration dominated the back of a long blue jacket — honoring the land that shaped it.

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