Author Archives: Robert Quick

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After 52 Years, Balenciaga Returns to Couture

Over the weekend, Demna Gvasalia, former creative director at Vetements and current artistic director at Balenciaga, revealed that the Spanish label will return to Haute couture later this year. The last time Balenciaga presented a couture collection was in 1968, before the label’s founder Cristóbal Balenciaga shuttered the atelier and pivoted to ready-to-wear.

 

“Haute couture is the very foundation of this house,” Gvasalia told Vogue. “So it is my creative and visionary duty to bring couture back. For me, couture is an unexplored mode of creative freedom and a platform for innovation. It not only offers another spectrum of possibilities in dressmaking. It also brings the modern vision of Balenciaga back to its sources of origin.”

 

Gvasalia remains one of the most influential and polarizing figures in the contemporary fashion landscape — from ushering in the era of big ugly sneakers to selling luxury Ikea bags, the Georgian designer consistently finds new ways to troll and disrupt the industry. And since there will be a large Jean Paul Gaultier-sized hole in the upcoming couture schedule in July, Balenciaga has some big shoes to fill for Fall 2020.

 

 

 

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After 50 Years, Jean Paul Gaultier is Retiring

Well, this is a bummer. Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the most influential French couture designers ever, announced his retirement today on Twitter. His upcoming Fall/Winter 2020 show in Paris on January 22 will be his last.

 

“This show celebrating 50 years of my career will also be my last,” he said. “But rest assured Haute Couture will continue with a new concept.”

 

Gaultier has had a tremendous impact on the global fashion community and pop culture. He launched his namesake line in 1976 and was one of the first to blur the lines of luxury and streetwear — a master of trickle-up theory. His 1985 show featured a line of men’s kilts, long before the public was even talking about gender fluidity and challenging masculinity and all that. (A lifelong punk, he could often be seen sporting his own kilt.) His Spring/Summer 1990 collection is frequently cited as one of the most influential menswear shows of all time and was referenced heavily in last year’s JPG x Supreme collab. And, before I start rambling, he invented Madonna’s cone bra. Need I say more?

 

While it definitely is the end of an era, the designer announced that his brand will continue under new leadership and he has some additional projects in store. Watch the full announcement below.

 



 

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A Brief History of Judy Blame, the Man Who Inspired Dior Men FW20

In his latest collection for Dior Men Fall/Winter 2020, Kim Jones paid tribute to the late stylist, designer, and general fashion renegade Judy Blame. Since he landed at the label in 2018, Jones has partnered with a roster of significant artists and tastemakers, from Raymond Pettibon to Shawn Stussy, with Blame being the latest to leave a mark in the designer’s catalog. The pair had a longstanding friendship (Jones was 16 when he first met the stylist) that eventually resulted in a collaboration during Jones’ time at Louis Vuitton in 2015.

 

Blame was a creative who ended up as one of the most enduring figures in the British fashion scene. “Thanks to some miracle I still can’t explain, I managed to survive all these different periods, punk, new romantic, rave… I think maybe that’s why people look at me with such admiration,” he told Numero magazine. Born in Devon, England, Blame moved to London in his early teens and thrived in the city’s blossoming punk scene, embracing its DIY culture. He started making jewelry to wear to various club nights out of unorthodox materials, everything from keys, buttons, general rubbish, and bones. “Punk rock – that was my training,” he told Another Man. He quickly became a nightlife fixture in the ’80s club scene, alongside legendary club kid Leigh Bowery, and it didn’t take long before other people started asking him to make them jewelry. The fashion world soon took notice.

 

He was responsible for helping curate the British look of the ’80s and ’90s during his time as a stylist for The Face and i-D magazines. This evolved into major collaborations with designers like Rei Kawakubo, Marc Jacobs, and John Galliano and artists as recognized for their looks as they are their music like Boy George, Kylie Minogue, and Björk. His work continued to translate into the 21st century and was celebrated with a retrospective exhibition, Judy Blame: Never Again and Artistic Differences, at the Institute of Contemporary Arts in London in 2016. Blame passed away from cancer at 58 in 2018, but his fearless design-savvy and unconventional approach continue to inspire a new generation of creative iconoclasts.

 

Watch the Dior Men’s Fall/Winter 2020 show below.

 

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Block Out Your Problems with Louis Vuitton’s New Headphones

If you’re looking for a way to treat yourself during Dry January, Louis Vuitton can help. The French designer (following a staggering men’s show in Paris — more on that later) just released a new series of stainless steel wireless headphones designed with New York-based audio brand Master & Dynamic. The two first released a collection of earbuds last year but the latest range offers an improved audio experience and fresh design.

 

The new color styles include red, yellow, and pink in addition to the monochromatic black and white options. Each pair is engraved with Louis Vuitton’s signature LV monogram and embellished with some intricate floral details as a nod to the heavy botanical theme of Spring/Summer 2020 collection. The headphone’s acoustic experience has been upgraded and battery life has been extended from 10 to 30 hours with two additional 10-hour charges stored within the charging case. On top of that, a new noise-canceling feature lets you block out the world’s background noise while an ambient listening mode allows you to stay aware of your surroundings.

 

The Louis Vuitton Horizon headphones are available in select stores and online now.

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Tame Impala, Missy Elliot, and Flume Will Headline Governors Ball

To celebrate the festival’s 10-year anniversary, Governors Ball just revealed one of its best lineups in years. For the 2020 edition of the summer festival, Tame Impala, Missy Elliott, Flume, and Vampire Weekend will appear as headliners for the three-day festival in June.

 

Tame Impala’s highly anticipated fourth album, The Slow Rush, arrives in February and the band’s dynamic psychedelic rock is perfect for large-scale festivals. Same with Vampire Weekend. On the other hand, Flume’s dreamy production is the ideal soundtrack to surround yourself with a bunch of strangers on drugs dancing. And Missy Eliott is, of course, Missy Elliott.

 

Other artists slated to appear at the festival include Stevie Nicks, Miley Cyrus, Solange, H.E.R., Foals, Carly Rae Jepsen, Milky Chance, Bleachers, Banks, Danny Brown, Alessia Cara, Danny Brown, Girl Talk, Swae Lee, Muna, Cuco, Princess Nokia and more. Read the full lineup below.

 

Governors Ball 2020 will take place on June 5-7. Tickets go on sale tomorrow at 12 pm EST.

 


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Artist Nick Moss on His ‘Steel Shapes’

Nick Moss has had a lifelong relationship with steel. Whether working with it during his childhood in the Midwest or establishing it as his medium of choice when he launched his art practice over seven years ago, the metal material has long been the source and outlet for his creative expression. “Looking at steel, I see the beauty of working with industrial tools and using the material,” he says. “Steel is my canvas and using tools and industrial processes as my paintbrush.”

 

The New York-based artist, who splits his time between downtown Manhattan and a studio upstate, has earned a reputation for his steel creations. And his latest exhibition — Steel Shapes on display now at Leila Heller Gallery — echos this balance. “It’s a bit of both,” he says of the show. “My love for the history of art, especially Minimalism, and then growing up in the Midwest as a farm kid and being fascinated with steel on the farm going up and the shape of lands, farm fields.”

 

Moss further explains how the shapes are inspired by aerial views and “how the fields are all divided by tree lines or roads and the similarities in shapes from square to rectangles and oddball shapes to literally walking on the street or shadows cast.” Despite the general abstraction in the appearances of the shapes, there’s a sense of familiarity. “Recognizing daily observations is how Steel Shapes formed,” he explains.

 

He also has another series that debuted earlier this month. “Flame Paintings happened as somewhat of a mistake,” he says. While the former exhibition utilizes a softer pastel color palette, Flame Paintings is more monochromatic and crisp in its look, with each piece affixed with a triangle that displays the effects of fire on steel. “The design process was a lot of exploration,” he says.”There’s no control using a flame.”

 

Steel Shapes and Flame Paintings are on display now at Leila Heller Gallery at 17 E 76th Street.

Images courtesy of Nick Moss and Leila Heller Gallery.

 

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A Quick Roundup of Milan Fall 2020 Men’s Looks

With Prada’s innovative set design that reinforced its geometric presentation, Gucci’s new interpretation of art-school-cool, and Iceberg making its return to the fashion capital, we highlight some key looks from Fall 2020 in Milan.

 

FENDI

Silvia Fendi commissioned Kunihiko Morinaga, the designer behind Tokyo-based label Anrealage which was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize last year, to help with the collection. The result of this collaboration was most evident with the abundance of dual-texture jackets, but a series of chunky rubber rainboots and updates to the Italian label’s bag line were a welcome surprise.

 

PRADA

Geometric patterns were the star of the show, from the spatial set design to the numerous prints that were prominently featured on a series of sweater vests paired with tailored trousers. The designer experimented with proportions, with exaggerated coat lapels adding a new dimension to the classic jacket styles.

 

GUCCI

Vintage-inspired looks in cropped and oversized fits, ripped jeans, and traditional tailoring were a whimsical update to collegiate cool. If Yorgos Lanthimos ever made a movie about an art school, this is what they would wear.

 

ICEBERG

Making its return to Milan’s fashion schedule, Iceberg incorporated a number of recent trends — most notably side bags and fanny packs — into its rave-inspired sportswear.

 

A COLD WALL

The designer had an ambitious inspiration for Fall 2020 — the history of human evolution. However, the collection was a nuanced and brilliantly crafted series of looks that handled the subject matter with ease by balancing an earthy color palette with sharp cuts and subtle yet effective fabric techniques.

 

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MY OWN PRIVATE ANTWERP: Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2020 Campaign

For its first campaign of the year, Raf Simons went for a simple and timeless look. Showcasing the Spring/Summer 2020 collection, which debuted last summer in Paris, Willy Vanderperre photographed a group of models against a stark white purgatory-like backdrop that allowed some of the collection’s loud prints and graphics to really pop. One repeated motif that reads MY OWN PRIVATE ANTWERP is a particular highlight that recalls the dreamy grunge style of the 1991 Gus Van Sant film it pulled its inspiration from. Alienation and anti-commercialism remain at the pulse of Simons’ brand since it launched in 1995 and the latest campaign, styled by Olivier Rizzo, evinces these themes for the new decade as the designer embraces his next chapter.

 

Take a look at some more of the Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2020 campaign below.

 

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Diptyque’s New Fragrance is an Ode to the City of Light

In its latest ode to Paris, Diptyque released a range of fragrances inspired by the traditional chypre. For those that don’t know, a chypre is a lively scent that’s characterized by vibrant citrus notes and earthy, floral, and woody undertones — a perfect spring repose to start the year. The French scent maker launched the Eau de Parfum Eau Capitale, a unisex update to the formal fragrance that is influenced by the City of Lights and stands as “an ‘abstract,’ enigmatic fragrance,” according to a press release. Packaging for the fragrance follows an Art Nouveau theme, exemplified with intricate and graphic illustrations. A limited-edition collection of similarly scented candles accompany the launch of this new scent.

The 2020 Academy Awards Nominations Are Here

The Academy Awards have been struggling to adapt to the times, with social media campaigns like #OscarsSoWhite calling out the program’s aversion to recognizing talent beyond straight white men and dwindling ratings affecting the once prestige ceremony. And after the nominations for the 2020 awards were announced earlier today, it’s clear that they’re still not getting it.

 

Joker, the semi-controversial incel-friendly film chronicling the life of one of the most famous comic book villains, leads the pack with 11 (?) nominations including Best Actor for Joaquin Phoneix and Best Picture. Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, Quentin Tarantino’s love letter to Los Angeles, and The Irishman, the latest 3-hour mob epic by Martin Scorsese, follow suit with 10 nominations. Parasite, the sharp Korean film with its innovative class commentary, is definitely an underdog with six well-deserved nominations. No women were nominated for Best Director, despite Greta Gerwig’s adaptation of Little Women receiving widespread acclaim. J. Lo was snubbed for her performance in Hustlers. Even Adam Sandler’s career-defining performance in Uncut Gems was ignored. In short, the nominations are a mess but at least 2019 was a great year for overrated superhero movies.

 

Check out the full list of nominations here.

 

 

 

 

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Backstage at Ermenegildo Zegna’s Fall/Winter 2020 Show

This season, Ermenegildo Zegna challenged itself to #UseTheExisting for its Fall/Winter 2020 show. The presentation was conceptualized in collaboration with American artist Anne Patterson and featured a set decorated with thousands of ribbons made from discarded fabrics, further emphasizing the sustainable angle of the collection. Mixed fabrics, both natural and synthetic, were used cohesively on the range of tailored looks and accessories.

 

“At Zegna, I have the privilege to experiment at every level, from the mix of fibers to the evolved tailoring shapes,” Alessandro Sartori said in a statement. “It is all about reshuffling or hybridizing categories, breaking boundaries in order to explore new territories: this is our new tailoring lexicon. One experimentation leads to the next, in one seamless dialogue, always keeping in mind that our art should always respect the earth. That’s our mission, as both humans and fashion-makers.”

 

Take a look at some backstage photos from the show below.

 

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